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Cam Arnott

What did you do to your GT3 today?

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1 hour ago, spiller said:

This is Kussmaul vs factory. Front grip on initial turn in with factory car is not too bad but it’s what happens when you apply the throttle that I find the most troubling. Front end lifts up and the steering goes numb with a lot of understeer. Probably too much squat in the rear but stiffening the sway bar should help with that (and then also stiffening front to maintain neutral front to rear balance). @Stephen Tinker I was thinking around -2.3 front and rear, neutral front toe and +2mm rear toe in per side. From my understanding Kussmaul is more of a track orientated set up but I used to run heaps more camber for the track, especially in the front. 

 

I've ALWAYS used less camber on the rear than on the front - even if its only 0.25 - 0.5 deg. less as it helps with initial turn in ....

And I think you are on the right track regards the F / R toe.

The reason I used slightly less camber than Roland's advise was purely for tyre wear. But after about 8,000km on nearly new PS2' 's , the rear's were still good of another 8,000 km and the fronts were "almost" as new...

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42 minutes ago, 901er said:

Bloody hell mate, just take the cup car on the Sunday coffee run if your that short on time 😆

If only it had cup holders 🤭

29 minutes ago, Stephen Tinker said:

I've ALWAYS used less camber on the rear than on the front - even if its only 0.25 - 0.5 deg. less as it helps with initial turn in ....

And I think you are on the right track regards the F / R toe.

The reason I used slightly less camber than Roland's advise was purely for tyre wear. But after about 8,000km on nearly new PS2' 's , the rear's were still good of another 8,000 km and the fronts were "almost" as new...

I agree with a bit more in front than rear too. My main concern for the front was also tyre wear (and tram lining, which shouldn’t be as bad with 0 front toe) but if you found the tyres held up ok perhaps I’ll try bumping up the front a bit. Did you run the exact Kussmaul set up Stephen or less 0.5 camber in the front/rear? Reason I ask is 0.5 less in the rear is -1.8 which is factory. I’m not overly fussed with tyre wear, with the kms I’m doing it will be years before they need replacement, by which time they’ll be hard as rocks anyway. 
 

Apologies if this has turned into a set up thread!  I will start a separate one.

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If you are not worried about tyre wear, I would go along with Kussmaul's set up every time - to the letter. Honestly, you won't regret it.

Of course, the only other conundrum is who is going to set up the car to Roland's specs? Sounds easy, but getting the (especially the front) toe in equal on both sides takes quite a bit of backwards and forwards in time and effort.

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49 minutes ago, Stephen Tinker said:

If you are not worried about tyre wear, I would go along with Kussmaul's set up every time - to the letter. Honestly, you won't regret it.

Of course, the only other conundrum is who is going to set up the car to Roland's specs? Sounds easy, but getting the (especially the front) toe in equal on both sides takes quite a bit of backwards and forwards in time and effort.

Personally, I wouldn’t trust anyone other than a Porsche specialist (not Porsche Centre) to do something like this. It’s pretty fiddly especially when you start rotating front struts in order to get the castor where you want it to be. 

2 hours ago, TwoHeadsTas said:

As stiff as the cup car is, I don’t think the coffee would stay in the cup for too long on an Adelaide Hills backroad 😜

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On 19/04/2021 at 08:39, spiller said:

This is a spare that I had before Porsche stopped making them. Demonspeed in the US are currently having a mould made to replicate them, which is a good thing as they’re consumable!

Haha indeed 

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On 19/04/2021 at 08:39, spiller said:

This is a spare that I had before Porsche stopped making them. Demonspeed in the US are currently having a mould made to replicate them, which is a good thing as they’re consumable!

I was surprised to find out that the stock .1 one is still available.  I grabbed the last one that PCA had in stock to put on the shelf, presume they will order in more......

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15 minutes ago, TwoHeadsTas said:

I was surprised to find out that the stock .1 one is still available.  I grabbed the last one that PCA had in stock to put on the shelf, presume they will order in more......

I believe the road version for the .2 is still available too. It’s usually the Motorsport parts that get discontinued first. Also the road version is a money maker...$750 versus $130 for the cup lip which has more material and is more flexible. 

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Just picked up the car after being aligned and corner balanced, not sure what it all means but keen to get it out and give it a try.

20210423_154555.jpg

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Well @Rick V had a chance to hit the Southern Vales test track yesterday arvo.

Been a while since it has been out so always a thrill just to take it for a punt but even more of a reason now the alignment and balancing has been done.

To be completely honest I wasn't expecting a lot, well they are a great set as stock but I can say it has totally changed the dynamics and handling characteristics of the car.

The front end now feels completely neutral with no understeer, turns in faster, transitions are smoother and doesn't feel like the front is getting ploughed when hard on the gas exiting corners.

The rear seem to have an extra 50% more grip/drive outta corners as well.

To date this is the best days pay that has been put into the G&T, next is the DSC Controller and I'm hoping that will again up the ante.

 

FB_IMG_1617598644800.jpg

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3 hours ago, Shedpest said:

Well @Rick V had a chance to hit the Southern Vales test track yesterday arvo.

Been a while since it has been out so always a thrill just to take it for a punt but even more of a reason now the alignment and balancing has been done.

To be completely honest I wasn't expecting a lot, well they are a great set as stock but I can say it has totally changed the dynamics and handling characteristics of the car.

The front end now feels completely neutral with no understeer, turns in faster, transitions are smoother and doesn't feel like the front is getting ploughed when hard on the gas exiting corners.

The rear seem to have an extra 50% more grip/drive outta corners as well.

To date this is the best days pay that has been put into the G&T, next is the DSC Controller and I'm hoping that will again up the ante.

 

FB_IMG_1617598644800.jpg

Hey @Shedpest nice work.  I’m keen to get the details of where you got this work done, as I will go down the same path once I have the new Bridgestone hoops installed. 
The GT3 took a back seat this weekend.... perfect convertible weather for a cruise up to the Barossa in the Green Machine. 

BD79B83F-97D5-40B6-AF38-036277455327.jpeg

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@Rick V nice weekend for the top down.

15 hours ago, spiller said:

Did you play with the sway bars at all?

I honestly wouldn't  know how to play with them, other than wipe them clean.

Are you talking new bushes?

 

 

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The sway bars are adjustable @ both front and rear.

You can adjust them by removing the locating bolt(s) from one location hole (IIRC 4 locations @ rear & 3 @ front) to another position which alters the tensioning of the bar which corispondingly alters the stiffness of the bar. 

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This the sway bar on the rear drivers side is it the hardest or softest setting?

 

20210427_173509.jpg

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That's on the hardest setting. Are you sure its on the drivers side? Perhaps it my eyes....

If you can imagine a cantilever, if you try to lever it up from the position it is now , it would be harder to push up (against the shock spring) than if the (drop link) bolt was in the rearmost hole. The further away from the cantilever, the easier it is to move which = a softer position for the roll bar.

Does that make sense ??

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@Stephen Tinker yep on it now, just had one of the shed pests explain it all to me and that was the conclusion we came to that it was on the hardest setting.

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11 hours ago, Shedpest said:

 Sounds way outta my pay grade

 I highly doubt that

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After having a recovery day on Thursday after a track day on the bike on Wednesday , I had a mate help install the DSC controller and accelerometer into the G&T.

The Southern Vales test track was available yesterday arvo for a shakedown and once again I went in with the thought of how much difference can it really make.

Well shock horror, the hype behind the DSC is all true, it really is a huge step up from the stock PASM module.

In standard mode it has turned the notorious "Goat track" into a somewhat user friendly road for the G&T with the kidney belt not required.

Sport mode was engaged on a few fast sweeping roads and again the car felt much more flatter, smoother and generally more compliant.

The DSC is certainly one of the best upgrades to the 997 and rates 10 out of 10 for bang for buck.

Last on the wish list is some fixed back carbon seats, if any has any some collecting dust.

 

 

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54 minutes ago, Shedpest said:

After having a recovery day on Thursday after a track day on the bike on Wednesday , I had a mate help install the DSC controller and accelerometer into the G&T.

The Southern Vales test track was available yesterday arvo for a shakedown and once again I went in with the thought of how much difference can it really make.

Well shock horror, the hype behind the DSC is all true, it really is a huge step up from the stock PASM module.

In standard mode it has turned the notorious "Goat track" into a somewhat user friendly road for the G&T with the kidney belt not required.

Sport mode was engaged on a few fast sweeping roads and again the car felt much more flatter, smoother and generally more compliant.

The DSC is certainly one of the best upgrades to the 997 and rates 10 out of 10 for bang for buck.

Last on the wish list is some fixed back carbon seats, if any has any some collecting dust.

 

 

paging @edgy not sure if he still has his spare fixed backs for sale?

 

 

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