996 engine out job list.

[Jason E]

So, it’s time to get the IMS done on my bog standard 2003 996.2.

As it’s a tipper this job requires the engine to be dropped.

While the engine is out I want a list of all the preventative ‘while you’re in there’ with the engine out jobs.

This is where you- the Porsche Intelligentsia come in.

I have a list of jobs below, please chime in with your advice/ knowledge/ anecdotal evidence/ rumours etc of what additional work should also be undertaken.

The car is just coming up on 77,000ks.

Water pump was replaced about 700k’s ago.  A major service was conducted at the same time along with a transmission service, new brake pads/ rotors/ sensors etc, new drive belt (see photos).

 

IMS (LN oil fed solution – lifetime fix)

RMS

plug packs,

expansion tank (my current one looks very good)

Engine mounts – type? - car will always be just a standard street car for spirited drives.  Must balance comfort with performance.

Bore Score check

 

All thoughts are much appreciated.  

 

[Fishcop]

I reckon not to overthink it - you've already done a lot of the work. Delete the bore score check - ignorance is bliss

• Air-Oil Separator (AOS)
• Double check any rubber/hose
• Double check engine codes before you pull the engine (cam sensors are much easier to change with the engine out).

Also, you could just check the coil packs - they can be changed out in the home garage in the future if they fail.  Hopefully they may already have been replaced/upgraded (997 part#)

[tomo]

1 hour ago, Jason E said:

 

Engine mounts – type? - car will always be just a standard street car for spirited drives.  Must balance comfort with performance.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Maybe update  to 997 engine mounts .

[DT]

Fishcop’s on it, although I think I would check the bores whilst it’s out, a lot easier than in. And if in the very unlikely scenario there is a problem at least you’ve already got the engine out and the shop can start licking their chops.

If you have slow cranking (assuming your battery and alternator are good) it’s a good time to change the starter-alt cable and/or starter.

If you’re feeling fruity you could fit an LN low temp thermostat, apparently frees up 5hp, and wagging tongues.

Unless you’ve got symptoms your coil packs are likely fine, even the odd hairline crack can be sealed with a light smear of the right heat resistant silicone.

I replaced my engine mounts with OEM and to be honest couldn’t really tell the difference from the old ones, but everyone was telling me they should be replaced.

At the risk of being burned at the stake seems to me a lot of parts get replaced on 911’s that don’t really need to be replaced. I’m not immune to the paranoia but it quickly gets expensive.

 

[tomo]

11 hours ago, DT said:

 

I replaced my engine mounts with OEM and to be honest couldn’t really tell the difference from the old ones, 

 

Your old ones were probably ok , You can visually see when they are stuffed. And if they are its night and day the difference  they make.

.

[Merv]

Were the water pump pipes pinned?

[Jason E]

11 hours ago, Merv said:

Were the water pump pipes pinned?

Hi Merv,

thanks for sending me down this particular Rabbit hole 😀.

I have very, very little mechanical knowledge & ability & as such was completely discombobulated by your talk of Pinning. 

So I googled it & ended up on Rennlist.  Pinning = is the art or practice of welding instead of re epoxying coolant tubes into the engine (for the uninformed like myself). 

The threads I read seemed to talk about Turbos & Mezger engines, generally those driven hard on track days or raced, having these problems.  One poster said the "standard cars' (M96 engines I assume) didn't have such an issue as the Mezger cars.

Interesting, thanks @Merv , you learn a lot on these forums.

[Merv]

True Jason.  The glue the factory used gives way after a while on the inlet and outlet pipes on Turbos and also on some high mileage non-T's.  

 

 

[Jim45]

Only thing I can suggest is make sure you have a look at idler / tensioner rollers as one of mine gave up recently and it was a mess of bits of metal and shredded drive belt.

I ended up replacing all 3 and the tensioner.

I think a mechanic who is experienced with your specific model for bigger jobs is a must.

[Jason E]

52 minutes ago, Merv said:

True Jason.  The glue the factory used gives way after a while on the inlet and outlet pipes on Turbos and also on some high mileage non-T's.  

 

 

Well it would seem I've found the one & only advantage to being too poor to own a Turbo P car.#winning 😀

[philipk]

The engine on my 2002 996 tipper came out yesterday and I am converting it to a 3.8 by L&N in America.

Found a scored cylinder this morning.

The 3.8 rebore will fix that!

My engine is close to 235,000km.

Have a look, I am updating my PFA link when I can about the rebuild.

 

[Zelrik911]

Bore  scoring should be a very easy thing to check on with a camera when the engine is out. It seems to happen a lot more in UK and could be related to 'colder' climates.

I wouldnt overlook it. As a more and more 996/997 & Box motors are suffering expensive wear & design damage, it is important to investigate any possibility to make sure your car is a long term survivor.

 

[Mike D'Silva]

2 hours ago, Zelrik911 said:

Bore  scoring should be a very easy thing to check on with a camera when the engine is out. It seems to happen a lot more in UK and could be related to 'colder' climates.

I wouldnt overlook it. As a more and more 996/997 & Box motors are suffering expensive wear & design damage, it is important to investigate any possibility to make sure your car is a long term survivor.

 

Yep, agree with this. Problem is, if you do find scoring, it seems there isn't anywhere in Aus to replace the cylinders. PhilipK above is sending his case to the USA and I believe Hartech in UK are the only other option. Does PR Tech offer anything like this here in Aus? I'm guessing a lot of m96 and m97 motors are driving around with some sort of scoring, and have just not been diagnosed yet. 

I want to have a crack at rebuilding these motors but without accessible liner replacement, sadly I don't think I can, as I don't have space to store a car and motor while waiting for the cases to be shipped, worked on and returned..

[911CSR]

Looking at various opions ATM, including LN and Hartech. Westwood in UK do steel liners (wet and dry liners) in differing sizing and can provide liners and pistons for 100mm bore which gives 3.9Lts.

There are differing opinions on steel liners in alloy blocks so unsure if this is a good option but still looking int it and getting the machining done locally is possible and I have had a few k-series blocks machined out for Darton liners, so may be an option.

[Mike D'Silva]

28 minutes ago, 911CSR said:

Looking at various opions ATM, including LN and Hartech. Westwood in UK do steel liners (wet and dry liners) in differing sizing and can provide liners and pistons for 100mm bore which gives 3.9Lts.

There are differing opinions on steel liners in alloy blocks so unsure if this is a good option but still looking int it and getting the machining done locally is possible and I have had a few k-series blocks machined out for Darton liners, so may be an option.

Aluminium and steel expand at different rates and apparently the steel liners are not a successful fix for the alloy 911 blocks.  Or so I am told.

[911CSR]

Thanks exactly what I have been told also, however there seems to be some very differing opinions on wet vs dry sleeves and their success rates. Dry sleeves not so good, but the wet sleeves, if fitted correctly, seem to be working very well.

Here is the pic Westwood sent of the sleeves fitted.