911SC Rear Badge Installation Tips

[Nicko82]

Hi all - just looking for some advice/tips for the installation of a 911sc badge on the rear deck (https://www.pelicanparts.com/More_Info/91155933701.htm...). I am confident I can get the hole locations right - I am going to use the top and bottom centre engine cover bolts to draw an imaginary line down through the deck lid and then using a template I am going to make up, mark up the holes on top of some masking tape before drilling. I was going to use a slightly oversize drill bit (say 1mm bigger than the badge pins) to allow for some placement adjustement/error. Any other tips and suggestions? Also, what is the best way to way to ensure that no rust develops from the newely drilled holes?

[P-Kay]

Tape is the best method and definitely paint post drilling

plus add some calking compound under the nuts. It may ouze out from under the badge (depending on amount so be sparing) Worse case, just wipe  

Breath while drilling.....

[Stepo]

I'm sure you'll do a good job going slowly, slowly.

You could always consider cutting the fixing pins off and just use auto grade double sided tape to hold it on like all badges are after the SC.  My 3.2 is like that and never come off, saves the drilling exercise and issues around rust developing 

[Shedpest]

+1 for double sided tape

[luzzo]

3 hours ago, Stepo said:

You could always consider cutting the fixing pins off and just use auto grade double sided tape to hold it on like all badges are after the SC.

Totally agree @Stepo.

I would suggest the same @Nicko82, much preferred to drilling holes. Why encourage any rust unnecessarily? 

3M have an automotive grade tape perfect for this. By memory it has red backing, but the adhesive itself is clear. Once cured it requires a Hulk force to remove. 

 

[FAP911]

34 minutes ago, luzzo said:

Totally agree @Stepo.

I would suggest the same @Nicko82, much preferred to drilling holes. Why encourage any rust unnecessarily? 

3M have an automotive grade tape perfect for this. By memory it has red backing, but the adhesive itself is clear. Once cured it requires a Hulk force to remove. 

 

That's the one - Unbelievable strength once on

[LeeM]

2 hours ago, luzzo said:

 

3M have an automotive grade tape perfect for this. By memory it has red backing, but the adhesive itself is clear. Once cured it requires a Hulk force to remove. 

 

 And takes paint off when removing it. Just ask me 🙄

[Harvs11]

5 hours ago, Stepo said:

I'm sure you'll do a good job going slowly, slowly.

You could always consider cutting the fixing pins off and just use auto grade double sided tape to hold it on like all badges are after the SC.  My 3.2 is like that and never come off, saves the drilling exercise and issues around rust developing 

This is exactly what I did 13 years ago.  
Use masking tape to mark out the position.  Test fit until you’re certain of the placement.  You get just one chance to stick it on with tape.  
 

 

[luzzo]

34 minutes ago, LeeM said:

 And takes paint off when removing it. Just ask me 🙄

Hmmm, @LeeM that doesn't sound right. 

There's lots of different versions of double sided tape (even within the 3M range). The clear automotive tape is excellent, but it may not be available just 'anywhere'. 

Also depends how you removed it, it shouldnt take off paint. Best method is to heat before removing, and then it can be 'rolled' off the surface. A bit like blue tac. 

[LeeM]

5 hours ago, luzzo said:

Hmmm, @LeeM that doesn't sound right. 

There's lots of different versions of double sided tape (even within the 3M range). The clear automotive tape is excellent, but it may not be available just 'anywhere'. 

Also depends how you removed it, it shouldnt take off paint. Best method is to heat before removing, and then it can be 'rolled' off the surface. A bit like blue tac. 

 I did actually heat it up, but the tape came away stuck to the badge when I was removing it. My paint isn't that flash, so I'd say the clearcoat was the main problem