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Whats for sale (in Australia ) and interesting Thread


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3 hours ago, luzzo said:

Here's one for you @LeeM 

Crazy money for a backdate:

1988 Porsche 911 Carrera Manual.
https://www.carsales.com.au/cars/details/1988-porsche-911-carrera-manual/SSE-AD-12251150

 

Nice looking car, but big money for basically a standard 3.2 Carrera with old bumpers. Selfishly I hope they get it, but is that where the market is for this?

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9 hours ago, luzzo said:

Here's one for you @LeeM 

Crazy money for a backdate:

1988 Porsche 911 Carrera Manual.
https://www.carsales.com.au/cars/details/1988-porsche-911-carrera-manual/SSE-AD-12251150

 

 Yeah that's up there 😯

Not a fan of the polished Fuchs, chrome headlight surrounds with black horn grilles and indicator bezel surrounds, but that's my personal taste.

 

5 hours ago, MFX said:

Nice looking car, but big money for basically a standard 3.2 Carrera with old bumpers. Selfishly I hope they get it, but is that where the market is for this?

 Ya know mate, not much surprises me these days. If it's a nice car (and it does look nice), I'd say someone might stump up close to the asking price, as loads of buyers just want quality over originality

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I know of a black G50 that changed hands recently for $220k unfortunately for a friend of mine. Aussie delivered with just over 170,000kms. Full history with rebuilt engine (10 years ago). Had someone comment on a Facebook post I put up who had a nice black one. He was after 'around' $200k for it, but before I could get there to have a look someone else had snapped it up from Sydney. No PPI or anything the seller said. All over Facebook. Spewing he didn't message me instead of commenting. What can you do. 

Ive been trying to help a friend of mine find one for the better part of 12 months. He wants something with a rebuilt engine at the very least. $200k is at the top end of what he is willing to pay though. If anyone knows of anyone, or is thinking of selling please send me a message.

Only after an Aussie G50 coupe though. 

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27 minutes ago, 60beetle60 said:

If RJP Motorsport in Perth did actually recondition the Engine and Transmission then mileage isnt such a big deal. SC's are strong, well built & go forever.

Someone in Perth may know this car. I would be surprised if it sold for 150k; but who knows these days!!

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52 minutes ago, 60beetle60 said:

Not really sure I would call 280k higher milage on a 43 year old car. I would not be confident of buying a sub 50k mileage car at this age as it could have even more issues from lack of use. At this level mileage is pretty much irrelevant. You need to buy on condition and history. A rebuilt engine and trans is going to by a reputable place is a big plus.

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1 hour ago, Zelrik911 said:

If RJP Motorsport in Perth did actually recondition the Engine and Transmission then mileage isnt such a big deal. SC's are strong, well built & go forever.

Someone in Perth may know this car. I would be surprised if it sold for 150k; but who knows these days!!

Talking with the dealer they sent through copies of receipts from RJP, top end rebuild of the motor including reconditioned heads, new rings, replaced head studs etc. Receipts don't show a full gearbox rebuild, states "replaced clutch, fitted gearbox, main shaft seal and serviced clutch pivot". 

 

46 minutes ago, MFX said:

Not really sure I would call 280k higher milage on a 43 year old car. I would not be confident of buying a sub 50k mileage car at this age as it could have even more issues from lack of use. At this level mileage is pretty much irrelevant. You need to buy on condition and history. A rebuilt engine and trans is going to by a reputable place is a big plus.

True, 280k is only 6500km a year. The car appears to be well looked after and presents well, currently organising a PPI to see if a more experienced eye thinks the same. 

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On 05/01/2022 at 16:31, 901er said:

A dealer told me a few months back that they are starting to cross check the declared sale price with your insurance company, so need to be a bit careful (unfortunately) 

Surely you're entitled to insure it for future value? How do they calculate "market Value"? And what if you buy something that is cheap cause it needs $$ spent on it?

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280k is getting up there - basic body will be fine, engine has been refreshed.  My car is at 240k and still driving great.  At less than 4K per year use will take another 10 years to get there.

if anyone presents an SC under 150ish km you’d want to see supporting evidence - odometers are a known weak spot and lots of things can happen in 40+ years.  At least with higher number cars it’s probably correct, or at least in the ballpark.

As said buy on condition not mileage.

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15 hours ago, 60beetle60 said:

Talking with the dealer they sent through copies of receipts from RJP, top end rebuild of the motor including reconditioned heads, new rings, replaced head studs etc. Receipts don't show a full gearbox rebuild, states "replaced clutch, fitted gearbox, main shaft seal and serviced clutch pivot". 

 

So it DOESN'T have a reconditioned engine & gearbox (just a fix of the headstuds & rings & clutch). The salespeson misled us - who would have thought it!!!!

It still will be very interesting ti see what this nice looking car sells for.

 

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12 hours ago, Coastr said:

280k is getting up there - basic body will be fine, engine has been refreshed.  My car is at 240k and still driving great.  At less than 4K per year use will take another 10 years to get there.

if anyone presents an SC under 150ish km you’d want to see supporting evidence - odometers are a known weak spot and lots of things can happen in 40+ years.  At least with higher number cars it’s probably correct, or at least in the ballpark.

As said buy on condition not mileage.

I agree, I have a car which I bought at 89K Kms which had a freshly rebuilt engine and box. Although all the other parts looked good for its ages, I had to verify its truth (why would a 3.2 have such low mileage and a rebuild). I contacted the previous owners. Owner 2 (who sold it to the mech) told me his son had downshifted from 5 to 2 on a straight coming out onto a racetrack causing massive engine issues and uncontrollable oil leaks. They opened the engine and found 2 studs had broken. So always good to verify history, and if they allow to contact the mechanic directly?

GLW the PPI.

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2 hours ago, NAC911 said:

How would they even know who the car was insured with?

Sorry we might be understanding this differently. Every car I've bought the insurance company has always asked what my purchase price was and insured to that initially. Once I have done work to fix and improve its value I have phoned them up and gotten the agreed value raised.

Didn't suggest the new insurance company checks the insurance records of the previous owners insurance. Though could be possible insurance companies communicate with each other checking based on VIN or previous registration?

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4 hours ago, Dalai said:

Sorry we might be understanding this differently. Every car I've bought the insurance company has always asked what my purchase price was and insured to that initially. Once I have done work to fix and improve its value I have phoned them up and gotten the agreed value raised.

Didn't suggest the new insurance company checks the insurance records of the previous owners insurance. Though could be possible insurance companies communicate with each other checking based on VIN or previous registration?

ah sorry, probably my confusion, im talking declared value on Vicroads transfer documents for stamp duty.

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3 hours ago, NAC911 said:

ah sorry, probably my confusion, im talking declared value on Vicroads transfer documents for stamp duty.

PS Just curious,  based on  DYOR,  what was the range of  insurance quotes for market / replacement value  you got off insurers in writing and the difference against your FOMO colour influenced  transaction / potential price.  Just a view, but perhaps you could try to avoid saying I just brought a car and paid X price and what a price for insurance and start with sticking  to their offered market value / replacement value if you can then run some scenarios up to your agreed FOMO values.   Are we taking 50k x (6.5% to 10%) hard earn't numbers   Shopping for dutiable values and insurance at the same time perhaps. 

Appears your in the camp of strictly applying the formulae of  FOMO hard earnt cash dropped  = strictly dutiable value base when it comes to stamp duty  = what I am strictly insuring the car for.  For some, not convinced that formulae is in the spirit of taking some pointers from the legendary late Kerry Packer's view on taxation in general when he stumped up to a parliamentary enquiry.

A minority view, particularly on here, but when it comes to opining on what's it worth / values on used vehicles,  if available, what so wrong with a pro/pro's  view who derive revenue from actually opining on what they are  worth if you can find something in writing  (ps I have no clue how far back   redbook values go as my curiosity is limited to post air-cooled).  As pro's, they lack the unconscious bias, particularly when it comes to colour.  Just because you paid way over the odds for your colour of choice (rare to see price ranges drill down by colours by the pro's? ) doesn't mean  that amount represents market value  or whatever the exact wording is in your state that the declared value needs to be based on given your fixation on paying way over the odds for your colour of choice based on FOMO.  I seem to have a bent for hardcopies to  memoralise what their worth at a specific point in time and make sure that document has reference to a date when it makes sense to do so.  The need to make a conscious unbiased view on what number to land on based on ranges ( trade-in, private or recommended retail / insurance market values may be a bit trickier as opposed to ignoring the premium paid on colour of choice and FOMO)  has historically been done so with some  conservatism (perhaps a function of your risk tolerance and how goods your audit support if asked to defend your declaration)

PS A few posts  on here than even  BM's are following P car trends and values going through the roof have been opined.  I call BS by a factor of at least x -2  based on referencing an  unbiased professional view.  As an example,  based on my model of BMW M3 that is technically assigned to daily duties,  definite downward spiral since the start of COVID19 based on a pro's view.  However, I must have a knack  for selecting the ugly and unwanted childs when it comes to my car purchases and choice of model / year and choice of colours currently garaged and thought the depreciation was all but mostly done when I purchased.   Eg  fried egg lights up front, even with the iconic turbo badge and 3 pedals  if your a boost junky in a plain polar silver colour  paired with a polar opposite  M3 badge out back but with a N/A V8 upfront with flappy paddles in a not too out there space grey appear to be extremely frowned upon in buyer circles when it comes to unbiased valuations based on recently comparing notes on  values back pre covid and now through the eye's of pro's

Now if I am selling the above cars, strictly private and I would totally ignore views of the pro's. Need to keep in mind who are their primary revenue paying customers keeping those pro's afloat and what's motivating them (buy high, sell low???)   Plus I'm no millennial and I am patient, don't need the cash and hence no fire sales  and personnel  garage sqm, aint costing me didly squat against my sell price.  Plus whats wrong with boring polar silver  (more rarer that boring artic silver) or space grey when supplies are low and you have a conscious bias that you keep your vehicle is  in better nick than nearly everything else that is being offered up liked for like with all things else being similar.  That premium above market as I see it  and you sell what the market can bare based on what you have on offer and what else is being offered up  along with  your time horizon for offloading.

The elevator summary is each to their own, but:

 FOMO hard earnt cash dropped on purchase  = strictly dutiable value base when it comes to stamp duty on a second hand good  = what I am strictly insuring the car for is flawed in the eyes of some and in the spirit of Kerry Packer is gifting  money to others  that you could spend a lot more wisely ( contribute to newer rubber bits,  (tyres, or some new mounts  ) , short shifter, tune) that improves the driver experience after your initial purchase.

 

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10 hours ago, smit2100 said:

PS Just curious,  based on  DYOR,  what was the range of  insurance quotes for market / replacement value  you got off insurers in writing and the difference against your FOMO colour influenced  transaction / potential price.  Just a view, but perhaps you could try to avoid saying I just brought a car and paid X price and what a price for insurance and start with sticking  to their offered market value / replacement value if you can then run some scenarios up to your agreed FOMO values.   Are we taking 50k x (6.5% to 10%) hard earn't numbers   Shopping for dutiable values and insurance at the same time perhaps. 

Appears your in the camp of strictly applying the formulae of  FOMO hard earnt cash dropped  = strictly dutiable value base when it comes to stamp duty  = what I am strictly insuring the car for.  For some, not convinced that formulae is in the spirit of taking some pointers from the legendary late Kerry Packer's view on taxation in general when he stumped up to a parliamentary enquiry.

A minority view, particularly on here, but when it comes to opining on what's it worth / values on used vehicles,  if available, what so wrong with a pro/pro's  view who derive revenue from actually opining on what they are  worth if you can find something in writing  (ps I have no clue how far back   redbook values go as my curiosity is limited to post air-cooled).  As pro's, they lack the unconscious bias, particularly when it comes to colour.  Just because you paid way over the odds for your colour of choice (rare to see price ranges drill down by colours by the pro's? ) doesn't mean  that amount represents market value  or whatever the exact wording is in your state that the declared value needs to be based on given your fixation on paying way over the odds for your colour of choice based on FOMO.  I seem to have a bent for hardcopies to  memoralise what their worth at a specific point in time and make sure that document has reference to a date when it makes sense to do so.  The need to make a conscious unbiased view on what number to land on based on ranges ( trade-in, private or recommended retail / insurance market values may be a bit trickier as opposed to ignoring the premium paid on colour of choice and FOMO)  has historically been done so with some  conservatism (perhaps a function of your risk tolerance and how goods your audit support if asked to defend your declaration)

PS A few posts  on here than even  BM's are following P car trends and values going through the roof have been opined.  I call BS by a factor of at least x -2  based on referencing an  unbiased professional view.  As an example,  based on my model of BMW M3 that is technically assigned to daily duties,  definite downward spiral since the start of COVID19 based on a pro's view.  However, I must have a knack  for selecting the ugly and unwanted childs when it comes to my car purchases and choice of model / year and choice of colours currently garaged and thought the depreciation was all but mostly done when I purchased.   Eg  fried egg lights up front, even with the iconic turbo badge and 3 pedals  if your a boost junky in a plain polar silver colour  paired with a polar opposite  M3 badge out back but with a N/A V8 upfront with flappy paddles in a not too out there space grey appear to be extremely frowned upon in buyer circles when it comes to unbiased valuations based on recently comparing notes on  values back pre covid and now through the eye's of pro's

Now if I am selling the above cars, strictly private and I would totally ignore views of the pro's. Need to keep in mind who are their primary revenue paying customers keeping those pro's afloat and what's motivating them (buy high, sell low???)   Plus I'm no millennial and I am patient, don't need the cash and hence no fire sales  and personnel  garage sqm, aint costing me didly squat against my sell price.  Plus whats wrong with boring polar silver  (more rarer that boring artic silver) or space grey when supplies are low and you have a conscious bias that you keep your vehicle is  in better nick than nearly everything else that is being offered up liked for like with all things else being similar.  That premium above market as I see it  and you sell what the market can bare based on what you have on offer and what else is being offered up  along with  your time horizon for offloading.

The elevator summary is each to their own, but:

 FOMO hard earnt cash dropped on purchase  = strictly dutiable value base when it comes to stamp duty on a second hand good  = what I am strictly insuring the car for is flawed in the eyes of some and in the spirit of Kerry Packer is gifting  money to others  that you could spend a lot more wisely ( contribute to newer rubber bits,  (tyres, or some new mounts  ) , short shifter, tune) that improves the driver experience after your initial purchase.

 

I'm defiantly not in the camp of paid price = dutiable price.

It's just an observation that how is "market" value calculated by the authorities, because i'm not paying a cent more than i should. 

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7 hours ago, NAC911 said:

I'm defiantly not in the camp of paid price = dutiable price.

It's just an observation that how is "market" value calculated by the authorities, because i'm not paying a cent more than i should. 

No-one said I had to be a good business person. I just made a bum deal is all, later I found out it was worth a set of used rear tyres and a detailers car freshener, I swear.

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