Jump to content

911 Engine oil preference


Caledonian
 Share

Recommended Posts

Don't really want to start another huge oil debate, just coming up for an oil change and thought i would see what the consensus was out there?

 

My car had an engine rebuild 6 years and around 12K prior to my purchase, in that time and according to the receipts suppled it had 4 oils changes 2 with Fuch Fully synthetic and 1 with Mobil 1 (Porsche dealer) and one just stated as 10lt of fully synthetic oil? 

 

When I got the car i researched the which oil question to the point of brain ache! I ended up talking to one of the local independent Porsche specialists and they said they used (and importantly had been using for some time) they recommend Castrol Magnatec 10-40 Semi - Synthetic so that was what ended up going for.

 

I don't drive like Miss Daisy and I don't cane the backside off the car either, I would like to do an occational track day in the future but not on the cards at the moment. I intend to change the oil and filter annually or 10000km whichever comes 1st. The car got a major service in July 2013 and by the time that comes around this year I estimate I will have done around 6500 - 7500km.

 

Please share your experiences and thoughts.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

as you're running synthetic I think you're best to stick with it

 

I run that Penrite stuff - HPR30 20w60 (I think, i'll have to check the bottle when I get home)

This is not necessarily true.

Synthetic oils are vastly superior to dinosaur based on every technical measure.

 

BUT (and it's a BIG but), aircooled engines need ZDDDPPPDDPPDPPDPPDPPDDDP, which stands for Zinc something or other.  Mobil 1 is great for water cooled engines.  From memory, cars up to 964 need a mineral oil with ZDDDPP etc.  993's should get semi synth and water cooled boxers should get fully synthetic.  

Link to comment
Share on other sites

This is not necessarily true.

Synthetic oils are vastly superior to dinosaur based on every technical measure.

 

BUT (and it's a BIG but), aircooled engines need ZDDDPPPDDPPDPPDPPDPPDDDP, which stands for Zinc something or other.  Mobil 1 is great for water cooled engines.  From memory, cars up to 964 need a mineral oil with ZDDDPP etc.  993's should get semi synth and water cooled boxers should get fully synthetic.  

Yes James importance of the Zinc content is the deal breaker I believe?

 

Just to keep this thread on track can I suggest you post as follows:

 

  1. Type/Brand Oil used and how long
  2. Driving style,car usage 

Then we can get into the debate:)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

993's should get semi synth  

Your guys put fully synthetic 5w/50 mobil 1 in my 993 recently... and I recall from when I originally picked it up Scott saying that was the preference?

 

I think the biggest problem is that opinions on which oil to use are like belly-buttons... everybody has one.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I just did some reading up on PENRITE,

10TENTHS 10W-40 has ZINC 2200+ PPM (full synth)

HPR30 20W-60 has approx. 1600ppm (yep they said approx.????)

Classic Light 20W-60 has High Zinc (no PPM given)

 

I think we need at least 1200ppm for our Air Cooled contraptions.

 

The other good one is Valvoline VR-1(so I'm told) available at REPCO.

 

Good luck

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I just did some reading up on PENRITE,

10TENTHS 10W-40 has ZINC 2200+ PPM (full synth)

HPR30 20W-60 has approx. 1600ppm (yep they said approx.????)

Classic Light 20W-60 has High Zinc (no PPM given)

 

I think we need at least 1200ppm for our Air Cooled contraptions.

 

The other good one is Valvoline VR-1(so I'm told) available at REPCO.

 

Good luck

So what do you use? sorry Brad Penn you said.... where do you get it?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

This is not necessarily true.

Synthetic oils are vastly superior to dinosaur based on every technical measure.

 

BUT (and it's a BIG but), aircooled engines need ZDDDPPPDDPPDPPDPPDPPDDDP, which stands for Zinc something or other.  Mobil 1 is great for water cooled engines.  From memory, cars up to 964 need a mineral oil with ZDDDPP etc.  993's should get semi synth and water cooled boxers should get fully synthetic.  

 

I was more making the point if you switch from Synthetic back to Mineral a lot of the times some seals don't like it and you get random oil leaks. I know a few VW people with Type 4 motors that have done this

 

I agree on the zinc for lubrication (although no one ever used to worry about it until the past 10-15 years)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Theo got me onto Brad Penn and I rate it cause of it's fluro green colour that adds about 5kw at the wheels and as it comes in quarts it's extra 2 bottles are perfect top up bottles for later on.

Very happy with the product and the free stickers it comes with. Distributor in Sydney does over night deliver for $12 or so.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

 I agree on the zinc for lubrication (although no one ever used to worry about it until the past 10-15 years)

In the last 10 years zinc has been reduced for enviro. benefit (and possibly other reasons). Hence the recent discussions. Newer engines are designed for low zinc oil. Older engines still need the zinc to protect the wear surfaces, particularly the flat tappet valve trains in pre-993 air cooled engines. Finding the zinc content in oils can be difficult but worth knowing to be safe. Min. 1200ppm is supposedly the safe minimum.

I'm currently using Castrol Edge Titanium 25w-50.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

In the last 10 years zinc has been reduced for enviro. benefit (and possibly other reasons). Hence the recent discussions. Newer engines are designed for low zinc oil. Older engines still need the zinc to protect the wear surfaces, particularly the flat tappet valve trains in pre-993 air cooled engines. Finding the zinc content in oils can be difficult but worth knowing to be safe. Min. 1200ppm is supposedly the safe minimum.

I'm currently using Castrol Edge Titanium 25w-50.

Interesting, i was just looking up the Castrol website and Edge Titanium 25w-50 is their recommendation for my car, but i'm sure there were others before when i looked last year?

 

Did you find out if it meets the ZDDP 1200ppm requirement ? have you been using  it for long or is it new to the market?

 

Sorry for all the questions...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Interesting, i was just looking up the Castrol website and Edge Titanium 25w-50 is their recommendation for my car, but i'm sure there were others before when i looked last year?

Did you find out if it meets the ZDDP 1200ppm requirement ? have you been using it for long or is it new to the market?

Sorry for all the questions...

Edge Titanium is replacement for Edge Sport which had 1200ppm Zn. Castrol are very cagey with product info. so I haven't been able to confirm the exact numbers.

I was previously running Liqui-moly Synthoil Race Tech GT1 SAE 10W-60. It might have been coincidence but my oil leaks started after I began using 10W-60. Full synthetic is not recommended for newly rebuilt engines (new rings along with head stud replacement less than 1000kms ago)

So far the engine is running well.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

There are two stockists for Brad Penn in the BrisVegas area-:

Ian Boetcher race parts, 30 Belar St. 3281 1219 (this is where I buy it from, as they always look after me with price)

Rapid, 75 Logan River Road 0418 180 734

 

Last time I bought it  was around $120:00 for 12 litres ($10/litre) Don't forget most other oils come in 5lt containers.

When comparing with Brad Penn remember your 2 "extra" litres.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

(1) I have used Penrite extra ten for three years in my race engine. Formula ford need the zinc. I monitor oil pressure pretty carefully under race conditions and am a believer.

http://www.penriteoil.com.au/tech_pdfs/1192%20February%202014%20-%20Automotive%20Engine%20Oil%20Summary.pdf

Used brad penn in my 550 Spyder but to be honest it couldn't hold oil pressure when hot (dropped very low at idle as is suspect oil was too hot), suspect I needed to go up the range in grade to a thicker oil.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...
 Share

×
×
  • Create New...