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996 suspention upgrades


raafrebel
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That's a big shopping list!

I've since put me v1s.on, with monoball top mounts and camber plates.  Have ERP spring plates at the rear, so everything is adjustable now.

Ohlins are now making more suspension options for our cars since that post in 2014...

It took me 9 months, and wanted something different from the standard d PSS10'S / KW's  but I finally got a set of ohlins R&T coilovers for my 996tt  that were not  sourced from the US where they are big bucks relatively speaking.  First local order took 4 months before they said factory is no longer doing runs for a 996 turbo (refer to prospeed in the link below ), then ended up getting a set 4 months later from the UK (design911 on a 20% discount sale that took 3.5months after they confirmed they had them on two week backorder from the factory when I ordered them).  I had ordered some tarret end links specifically to work with Ohlins coilovers hence was sort of locked in / was patient.

Note  best price I found for Ohlins R&T landed to your door  if they can get them after heaps of searching on the web  globally is actually from a nsw central coast shop, prospeeed racing

http://www.prospeedracing.com.au/products/ohlins-r-t-coilover-system-suit-porsche-996-carrera.html

PS Just a view but I would not  just put coilovers on the a car without sorting out adjustability in terms of both toe and camber when it comes to a wheel alignment unless you have a fat wallet and like changing tyres out that wear prematurely.   eg rear adjustable toe links, front shock top mounts and bearing plates (both generally wear badly) as a minimum (I went with 996 GT3 adjustable lower control arms with a guess on required shiming  gt3 rear sway bar and tarret sway bar end links and adjustable toe links to compliment the ohlins R&T coilovers).  Everything is still in boxes , works well on paper based on my research, but can't comment on the setup / fitment as of yet.   If one has not sorted out your engine and tranny mounts recently,  I would recommend getting them sorted whilst doing your suspension. (eg 964 RS semi solid engine mounts and 997 tranny mounts)  eg may as well stiffen up the ride both in terms of suspension and drivetrain movement at the same time.

Notwithstanding I have a 996 turbo, below  is my suspension parts list for reference based on the research I have ready to go on my car

996GT3 Rear Lower Control Arm Inner - Adjustable Left
996GT3 Rear Lower Control Arm Inner - Adjustable Right
996GT3 Front Lower Control Arm Inner - Adjustable Left
996GT3 Front Lower Control Arm Inner - Adjustable Right
Rear Lower Control Arm Solid Thrust Arm End Bushing Kit - GENUINE(996)
LCA HEX.NUT hexagon nut M 8 04- M004
LCA WASHER Washer 8,5 X 17 X 6 04- M004
Control Arm - 1mm caster shims - 
Control Arm - 4mm caster shims - 
Control Arm - 6mm caster shims - 
Front Sway bar Drop Links (for Ohlins Coilovers) Adjustable 
Front sway  bar Drop Links (for Ohlins Coilovers) Boot Set of 4
Rear sway  Drop Links (for Ohlins Coilovers)  Adjustable 
Rear sway  Drop Links (for Ohlins Coilovers) Boot Set of 4
Rear adjustabble toe link steer kit 
Rear adjustabble toe link steer kit boots
Install Suspension Parts
Ohlins - Road and Track Coilovers - 996 Turbo
Front Shock Absorber - Left
Front Shock Absorber-Right
Front Coil Spring Left
Front Coil Spring Right
Rear Shock Absorber - Left
Rear Shock Absorber-Right
Rear Spring Coil -Left
Rear Spring Coil - Right
Front Shock Absorber Top Mount Left
Front Shock Absorber Top Mount Right
Front Shock Bearing Plates  Left
Front Shock Bearing Plates  Right
996 GT3 rear sway bar adjustable
996 GT3 Bushings Mount for rear sway bar
996  GT3 Bushing Sway Bearing clamp
996 GT3 Bushing Clamp Hex Nut
996  GT3 Bushing Clamp Hex Bolt

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  • 1 month later...

I looked at every suspension set up in the universe I think and those came up in every search I did every day for coil-overs...!!

These also caught my eye...http://ceikaperformance.com/Custom_Built_Coilovers/PORSCHE/996_c624/

In the end I couldn't put them on a Porsche. Not from snobbery I just couldn't find enough info about them to get an idea of quality.

BTW - I ran K-Sport on a Liberty GT which were great - no issues for 2 years+.

H&R went on the 996 yesterday.

Renamed the thread to make it easier to find...

Jim.

Jim,  how'd the H&R work out for you?   Interested to hear your feedback.   I'm still trying to work out what I'll buy.

 

thanks

 

Tim

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Jim,  how'd the H&R work out for you?   Interested to hear your feedback.   I'm still trying to work out what I'll buy.

thanks

Tim

Hi Tim - Been on for roughly 2 months so far and no issues.I did several upgrades so can't just put it down to just the coil overs but I do prefer the ride now.

This is what I had done:

  • Coil overs / Solid sub frame bushes (these will drop the car .25inch on their own) / Tarett front strut tops / OEM front bearing plates / Tarett adjustable rear toe arms

Had the car aligned at Heasman Steering in Sydney and the technician said the car drove really well. The adjustable toe arms helped. He also mentioned I could go + / - 10mm without a realignment as well.  Running slight negative camber in front and about -1.20 in the rear.

Looking back the factory setup was tired and this had made the car feel a lot more planted and eliminated the light nose feel at speed and it look better as well. Way to high from factory.  I'm not GT3 low but low enough. Roughly 1.25inches lower all round at a guess!

Car drives like its on rails and the coil overs are not noisy at all.There are other suspension options but I decided I would rely on the H&R preset damping for these "street" coil-overs which made them better value than some other preferred brands. These also have more height adjustment from what I've read. Money was put to use else where.

That was after AOS was done.......then the crank sensor went kaput.....replacing that has made a world of difference to the car...

Jim.

 

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.....then the crank sensor went kaput.....replacing that has made a world of difference to the car...

Jim.

 

Off topic, did it just not crank (start) or were there issues that led you to replace it?

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Off topic, did it just not crank (start) or were there issues that led you to replace it?

Since I bought the car it had always taken several slowish turn overs to get the car started. I had always intended to replace battery, which appeared to be fine as I thought it may help. I ended up replacing it at the same time as the suspension updates. I had noticed previously that the car appeared to be losing power - I actually though I was getting used to it after a year of driving. A few days after all the mods and new battery etc the car started taking longer to start and was flat spotting on acceleration at random places in the rev range - different gears etc. I had no codes thrown though. Went back to mechanic and he took it for a drive and basically said the car was in trouble! Initially he thought it was the fuel pump on its way out or blocked filter. Reason for fuel avenue was that when we did the suspension he needed me to fill the car and he is next to a budget place.  He thought maybe fuel contamination was the cause. Had the filter apart and tested the pump from an external power source and it appeared fine. At that point he plugged the car in and it had a code stored in memory but no CEL. Sensor may have been intermittent and correcting itself before code was thrown? Was like night and day after sensor went in. Car fires up quickly every morning 2 - 3 turns. I'm not blowing any smoke now on start up, I did switch to Mobil 1 0w-40 as well when serviced. Idle hunt has decreased dramatically and idle is almost stable and lower than before. Oh and new breather hose!

Jim.

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Since I bought the car it had always taken several slowish turn overs to get the car started. I had always intended to replace battery, which appeared to be fine as I thought it may help. I ended up replacing it at the same time as the suspension updates. I had noticed previously that the car appeared to be losing power - I actually though I was getting used to it after a year of driving. A few days after all the mods and new battery etc the car started taking longer to start and was flat spotting on acceleration at random places in the rev range - different gears etc. I had no codes thrown though. Went back to mechanic and he took it for a drive and basically said the car was in trouble! Initially he thought it was the fuel pump on its way out or blocked filter. Reason for fuel avenue was that when we did the suspension he needed me to fill the car and he is next to a budget place.  He thought maybe fuel contamination was the cause. Had the filter apart and tested the pump from an external power source and it appeared fine. At that point he plugged the car in and it had a code stored in memory but no CEL. Sensor may have been intermittent and correcting itself before code was thrown? Was like night and day after sensor went in. Car fires up quickly every morning 2 - 3 turns. I'm not blowing any smoke now on start up, I did switch to Mobil 1 0w-40 as well when serviced. Idle hunt has decreased dramatically and idle is almost stable and lower than before. Oh and new breather hose!

Jim.

Thanking you - excellent reference point for the symptoms.

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Hi Tim - Been on for roughly 2 months so far and no issues.I did several upgrades so can't just put it down to just the coil overs but I do prefer the ride now.

This is what I had done:

  • Coil overs / Solid sub frame bushes (these will drop the car .25inch on their own) / Tarett front strut tops / OEM front bearing plates / Tarett adjustable rear toe arms

Had the car aligned at Heasman Steering in Sydney and the technician said the car drove really well. The adjustable toe arms helped. He also mentioned I could go + / - 10mm without a realignment as well.  Running slight negative camber in front and about -1.20 in the rear.

Looking back the factory setup was tired and this had made the car feel a lot more planted and eliminated the light nose feel at speed and it look better as well. Way to high from factory.  I'm not GT3 low but low enough. Roughly 1.25inches lower all round at a guess!

Car drives like its on rails and the coil overs are not noisy at all.There are other suspension options but I decided I would rely on the H&R preset damping for these "street" coil-overs which made them better value than some other preferred brands. These also have more height adjustment from what I've read. Money was put to use else where.

That was after AOS was done.......then the crank sensor went kaput.....replacing that has made a world of difference to the car...

Jim.

 

Thanks Jim.

Looking a Pss10 which are on sale now at Carnewal. Can get them delivered here for $2930 AUD, which I thought was pretty good?!  Just trying to work out what else I need.  Bushes?   Don't know enough about suspension, steering, etc.   

 

thanks

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Thanks Jim.

Looking a Pss10 which are on sale now at Carnewal. Can get them delivered here for $2930 AUD, which I thought was pretty good?!  Just trying to work out what else I need.  Bushes?   Don't know enough about suspension, steering, etc.   

 

thanks

There are very few bushes that aren't independent of the coil overs. 

The only parts you can't get to post a coil over install is the top hats.

Although there are a few parts that require a realignment if changed such as the "coffin arms". 

Edited by dan_189
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Thanks Jim.

Looking a Pss10 which are on sale now at Carnewal. Can get them delivered here for $2930 AUD, which I thought was pretty good?!  Just trying to work out what else I need.  Bushes?   Don't know enough about suspension, steering, etc.   

thanks

Mate I'm not an expert but had some good advice from this forum which was backed by what I'd read elsewhere. smit1200 gets a mention..

Purchased along with coilovers:

  • After market strut tops (stock strut tops will do).
  • OEM front bearing plates.  
  • Adjustable rear toe arm - Without them you will not be able to get the toe set correctly if you lower past a certain point.

Jim.

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Ok, the plan was to upgrade the suspension with an option to lower it, probably 20-25mm.

So any advice would be appreciated on what other components I need if buying the Pss10 Bilstien's.   The steering isn't necessarily loose, but definitely not tight light a new car.  Should I be also looking at replacing bushes in the steering components?

thanks for any help you can provide

 

Tim

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Yeah, I saw that which is what got me thinking in the first place.    He replaced everything though.........which looked like it was pretty labour intensive

 

yes. Changing bushes is no fun!

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  • 3 years later...

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