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Skunk Works 964 "RS-4" project


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In this case we don't need to replace the pistons and/or cylinders. If one was to do so you'd probably go JE and Mahle 3.8 respectively but they're ~$5k plus there is some additional machining required.

Given the condition of the engine we can reuse the existing pistons and cylinders with new rings, springs & retainers, seals, gaskets, conrod bolts, head studs and bearings etc. Engine will also be blueprinted and balanced, receive new cams and the aforementioned rockers and oil pump. Can't recall what was said about line honing (assume it would be done) and boring and resurfacing the cylinders (don't think it's necessary unless fitting oversized pistons). Then there are all the ancillaries like dizzy caps, rotor buttons, leads etc etc. No doubt a heap of things I've missed there.

Thanks for the detailed reply.

Can i ask a ballpark for what it costs just in parts for the motor bits?

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Why not go with ITB's if you're planning to run some higher duration cams etc?

 

Funny you mention that! Waiting on a price on GT3 plenum and ITBs like on Sydr's car but think I might be a bit exxy.

 

 

Thanks for the detailed reply.

Can i ask a ballpark for what it costs just in parts for the motor bits?

 

 

I actually don't know the exact breakdown but a full rebuild typically runs to $23-25k depending on what can be reused and top end rebuilds approx $15k. It can vary greatly especially if you need big ticket items like pistons and cylinders ($5k)

 

If I had to guess, labour would be $5-8k (50-60 hours at $80-90/hour). Others on here have done their own builds so should be able to confirm what parts and machining cost. 

 

 

I can look after it till you get back......

 

nice try :) 

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I've just caught on to this build. I like where it's headed.

A good tip for anyone pulling down an air cooled 911 is shown in a couple of your pics. Mark your cylinders with an engraver. This way you can put them back in the same order and avoid machining to match deck heights.

And my 2 c on the colour, original grey is beautiful, but if you're going for coloured highlights then a solid or even matte grey is a winner.

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Don't worry about what it costs, close your eyes, pay up and enjoy.  Worth every razoo

 

 

Well the deed is done. Pulled the trigger on the ITBs :D
 
Considered Mahle 3.8 P&Cs too but the price was getting eye-watering. 
 
Engine build summary:
 
Blueprinted and balanced
ARP rod bolts 
ARP head studs
High comp 3.6L pistons
Sport cams (custom grind)
Titanium valve springs and retainers
993 RS valves
Ported heads 
Rothsport ITB kit (Jenvey ITBs)
Motec M84 ECU and Sensors
Bosch injectors
GT3 oil pump
Billet rocker covers
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Well the deed is done. Pulled the trigger on the ITBs :D
 
Considered Mahle 3.8 P&Cs too but the price was getting eye-watering. 
 
Engine build summary:
 
Blueprinted and balanced
ARP rod bolts 
High comp 3.6L pistons
Sport cams (custom grind)
Titanium valve springs and retainers
993 RS valves
Ported heads 
Rothsport ITB kit (Jenvey ITBs)
Motec M84 ECU and Sensors
Bosch injectors
GT3 oil pump
Billet rocker covers

 

 

Now why does that look familiar?

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  • 2 weeks later...

Any ideas for alternative reverse lights once the rear reflector is replaced/painted?

I was thinking maybe it could be rewired so that both indicators come on but open to suggestions.

You could always leave the reverse lights unpainted. I tinted my lights with some nightshade red yesterday and masked off the reverse lights for the first few coats. They look great. I'm sure I've seen the center piece painted with the reverse lights still exposed somewhere.

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I might be thinking of the ruf piece but I'm sure I've seen it with the reverse lights with the reddish stock tint.

I'll be posting something up about my lights soon. I decided they were not as glossy as I would like. Just wet sanded and gave it a few more clear coats. Once they back on the car I'll make a post.

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