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924 Martini Resurrection tips


Mikey1st

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I was starting to round my civics sump plug badly the other week trying to loosen it with a breaker bar as it had seized up since the last service, impact sockets to the rescue, no more damage done. Worth their wait in gold if your starting to see that your about to round a nut.

I almost always reach for them first time now instead of standard sockets.

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  • 1 month later...

Bit of an update.

 

Finally got the sump plug off and oil changed, took it for a quick run up to the servo and got some nice fresh petrol in it, actually runs surprisingly well but it is definitely not built for large blokes as its quite hard for me to drive haha.

It goes in for its rego check tomorrow so hopefully it passes.

 

Anyone got a spare rear vision mirror laying around?

 

Stuck on a couple things.

1st and 2nd pic below - What is this called, and does anyone have one, and would it be normal for oil to come out of it as i noticed a little pool of oil below it.

3rd pic - What is this? (air intake?) and what is missing.

 

engine%202.jpg

 

engine%203.jpg

 

Air%20intake.jpg

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Oil mist from the crankcase builds up in the rubber bellows. Normal. Remove and clean occasionally. N.B old bellows get hard and brittle and cause vac leaks which your car will hate at idle. Replace.

 

The plastic funnel should have a duct connected to the alternator housing to keep it cool. In doing so,  clean air not road grit will pass through and your alternator will last longer and work better. Any heat proof ducting will work.

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Probaly a stupid question but what is the bellows? Is that the bit that feeds the throttle body? The bit coming off that in my picture has broken away and was replaced with electrical tape a long time ago but now that has gone so I think it needs replacing.

Another issue, I replaced the battery a couple weeks ago, when I went out 2 days ago it was dead, what should I look at to find what is draining the power?

Any body got any tricks for getting the old fuel filter undone?

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The thing bodged with electrical tape must be replaced! Electrical tape is not fuel/oil resistant and at most is an emergency McGyver fix.

 

With the battery I would install one of those green quick disconnect switches on the negative terminal. It makes electrical work so much easier and it's quick to turn off the power e.g. which gets drained by the clock , when you go away on hols. Or if you're working on any aspect of the fuel system.

 

Re current drain , charge the battery up again - then disconnect the negative terminal , then touch it back , if there's a spark you have a short.

Next move to the fuse panel. There are two. One by one disconnect each fuse and test for a spark again. If it doesn't spark that is the cause of the short (there may be more than one..) Before you reinstall the fuse , clean the terminals and fuse (or replace the fuse) with fine wet and dry sandpaper.

 

The fuse box lies beneath the battery box. the latter collects leaves and stuff and can rust out , leaking water on your fuses! Esp if the car has been sitting around for ages. Remove the battery , clean thoroughly and attend to any rust - paint with a nice tough paint.

 

Recommissioning old cars is a slow business ,  but just follow logical steps and it's pretty satisfying bringing them back to life!

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Another update!

Failed rego on Friday for :

Window washers not working

RH wiper not working

Battery not secure

Windows dirty

And rear view mirror not clear (after I added mirror tape stuff from Repco)

Well if fixed it all :) washers were blocked, rh wiper was loose, battery is now bolted in windows cleaned and rear view has cleared up. So will get rego cleared tomorrow

Also changed the fuel filter which had quite a bit of gunk in it.

Tested the alternator and it is charging great.

Did a bit better McGyver fix on the bellow, and wrapped a host clamp with a bit of silicon around it until I can replace, also found the other bit of the bellows is starting to crack.

Haven't had a chance to test the battery drain yet.

Have found 2 more issues,

1. odo isn't working (speed is tho) I've been told it's got to come out.

2. Temp gauge in the cluster isn't working, WHERE is the temp sender unit? We found the temp unit to activate the fan but can't find the temp sender for the temp gauge!

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2. Temp gauge in the cluster isn't working, WHERE is the temp sender unit? We found the temp unit to activate the fan but can't find the temp sender for the temp gauge!

I think you'll find it right at the back under the distributor somewhere. Blue/yellow wire I think but yours will be grey...

Hope you have a good back , neck and light!

 

You can pull the odo and replace the (carzy expensive) plastic gear ; a careful evening's work. They all break eventually. Same with 911s and 944s and 928s...and Series Land Rovers ; though I had to Macgyver that one. 

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  • 2 weeks later...

Just picked the old girl up from the detailer.

8 hours of buffing and a ceramic coat and she is like brand new, actually cannot believe how good it is, I will take some pics and put them up tomorrow (If anyone is in Canberra hit up Diamond Detailing in Phillip!)

Having a bit of a issue with rego, I want to get classic car rego but I can't get onto the porsche club Canberra, anyone got a contact there.

The car is still not firing quite right, what's the best spark plugs to replace with?

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Use the spark plug recommended in the owner's manual , or its equivalent. Repco/Supercheap will have them. Don't be tempted by modern platinum electrode ones.

 

Using a test plug on each lead , are you getting strong sparks from each?

What is the condition of each plug that's been in there before?

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Having a bit of a issue with rego, I want to get classic car rego but I can't get onto the porsche club Canberra, anyone got a contact there.

Send a PM to Carrera28 from here.

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Use the spark plug recommended in the owner's manual , or its equivalent. Repco/Supercheap will have them. Don't be tempted by modern platinum electrode ones.

 

Using a test plug on each lead , are you getting strong sparks from each?

What is the condition of each plug that's been in there before?

 

I had a look in the owners manual and it says to use a bosch w225 t30, after contacting everyone i found they no longer use this part number, bosch sent me an email advising of the new cross reference part numbers. 1 is a copper plug and the other is a platinum, not sure which i should go with.

 

i haven't tested the current plugs, my dad seems to think they are basically brand new (put in just before the car went in the garage)

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...Re current drain , charge the battery up again - then disconnect the negative terminal , then touch it back , if there's a spark you have a short.

Next move to the fuse panel. There are two. One by one disconnect each fuse and test for a spark again. If it doesn't spark that is the cause of the short (there may be more than one..) Before you reinstall the fuse , clean the terminals and fuse (or replace the fuse) with fine wet and dry sandpaper......

 

While I 100% agree with method and think a short is most likely culprit, I would just point out that spark just means some current draw and not automatically a short. You can hook up a multimeter on amp setting, between disconnected neg connector and the neg battery terminal to see how bad current draw is. Poor grounds will add resistance and so can increase current draw as can a faulty sensor or unit. There can be numerous causes but bottom line, as Tassie quite correctly points out, is being methodical. First find culprit via fuse method and then work on cure

 

Now since you have down a full on detail we need more pics lol

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ill get some pics up asap, weather in canberra has been rubbish so have not wanted to pull it out for pics.

 

Picked up some historic car rego today so the old girl is good to go.

 

im going to take it into my normal mechanic just to do a run over it, might get him to take a look at the drain issue while he has it.

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So i went with the platinum  <_< Contacted all my local shops with the copper one's part number and they all seem to not stock or be able to get them, so according to the bosch website the price difference is only about $1.50 a plug so its ok, if they dont work great ill find some others.

 

Now this im a little concerned about. I bought a new air intake to the throttle body pipe (bellows??) when i took the old one off i have found quite a bit of oil inside it, and something tells me that the air intake shouldnt have oil in it..

 

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Actually if they used the same system that is used on later 944's, they feed crankcase air back into intake, after it has gone through Air Oil Seperator(AOS) and I have no idea if that is the case, but if it is, then an oil coating is normal. It was done to reduce emissions, as oil vapour is burnt off. A lot of turbo guys fit catch cans to reduce it further, as obviously it will degrade performance slightly. Hopefully someone with your model can speak up and shed some light, but it may be normal

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  • 3 weeks later...

Thanks guys, I'm pretty happy with her :)

Some new tyres and eventually a new dash,and get the seats fixed up a little and she will be looking good!

AC where and when? I'm keen. Is it with the Porsche club or seperate?

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