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964 C2 Manual - How Slippery is that Slope??


DS911

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Thanks Mike.

 

Before I started the disassembly I got the pressure cleaner under the car to try and remove as much as I could.  I didn't use the right degreaser so I only got rid of the superficial grime at that stage.

 

When it was on the hoist I brushed on a degreaser which is a bit like a gel, waited about 10 minutes then scrubbed with nylon bristle brushes (different sizes and shapes - all purchased at Mitre 10).  I then wiped down with cloths.  I had two buckets on the go, one with clean water and one with a degreaser mix to help keep the cloths clean.

 

I had to do some sections twice and after it was clean I used water in a spray bottle with clean cloths to give it a final wipe.

 

By doing it this way I was able to keep the mess down to a minimum but still had a couple of drops sheets down and also covered the hoist as best I could.

 

I used gun wash (like thinners) to clean where the wax had been sprayed.  This needs a bit of care because the gun wash can burn some plastics and also dissolve some coatings.

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A little more progress today. Fixed a stripped thread in the cross member, fitted sway bar, cleaned a few more bits and pieces and assembled front struts.

Only interesting pic of the day is this.

AB15622B-7619-443C-9EFE-BAE3BDFB42B0_zps

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  • 2 weeks later...

Amazing results, looks too good to actually take it out (which would be a sin). 

Would love the skills to be able to strip and rebuild you have. 

 

Thanks, although it's not that hard if you have lots of patience.  I have a parts catalogue and workshop manual to get me through most of it.  I also run some questions past my mechanic if I get really stuck.

 

What's that Lucas box underneath? Part of the 4wd? The prince of darkness strikes!

 

Hey Prince... That's the brake booster.  My car is 2WD - I don't know if I've got the smarts to work on a 4WD system  :)

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  • 3 weeks later...

Did a bit more over the long weekend.  I should have taken some more pics during the assembly but it's coming together nicely.

 

3A6B8226-5F93-4AE6-8E28-4A2AD53A55EE_zps

 

Some of the hardware went from black oxide to gold zinc.  Not 100% correct but I think it's OK for this car.

 

7D87BD01-2E19-4C63-9E27-F010EE73AFAF_zps

 

At last the wheels are on and it is safely back on terra firma.  Spot the 6 year old photo bomber..

 

DA92AEAF-33A8-445D-B5BF-508E97E16038_zps

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I am giving VHT a go.  I spoke to a couple of guys who have used it they were convinced it was the right path to take.

 

I have my reservations about spray can products so we'll see.  The initial finish is good and I was able to spray a gloss clear over the high temp vinyl lettering.  The lettering did yellow a bit after the oven bake which is still fine for me.

 

In the end I weighed up VHT, 2 pack and powder coating.  I'd heard reports that powder coating might not stand up to heat that well.  2 pack had similar comment although generally both these coatings are quite hardy.  I liked that VHT is temp rated plus it can be repaired easily if required.

 

I guess the test of time will tell.  Best case it holds up and stays as good as it looks today.  Worst case I strip them back and re coat using another system.

 

In 12 months time I'll be able to report back with some real world experience.  Maybe I'll squeeze in a track day or two to really test it out.

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I am giving VHT a go.  I spoke to a couple of guys who have used it they were convinced it was the right path to take.

 

I have my reservations about spray can products so we'll see.  The initial finish is good and I was able to spray a gloss clear over the high temp vinyl lettering.  The lettering did yellow a bit after the oven bake which is still fine for me.

 

In the end I weighed up VHT, 2 pack and powder coating.  I'd heard reports that powder coating might not stand up to heat that well.  2 pack had similar comment although generally both these coatings are quite hardy.  I liked that VHT is temp rated plus it can be repaired easily if required.

 

I guess the test of time will tell.  Best case it holds up and stays as good as it looks today.  Worst case I strip them back and re coat using another system.

 

In 12 months time I'll be able to report back with some real world experience.  Maybe I'll squeeze in a track day or two to really test it out.

I used VHT black,  on a gold motorbike brake calliper 20 odd years ago and it still looks the same  (good shit)

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While it's on my mind here are some tips for spraying VHT products, other than the usual 'follow the directions'

 

  1. Slightly warm the surface if painting in cold weather - yes this helps.
  2. Spray 2 light coats to create a good base before putting a wet coat down.
  3. If you are leaving it overnight between coats then wait at least 2 days before fresh coats (3 in cold weather).  You need to allow it to dry properly otherwise you'll get an orange peel type effect as it dissolves the coats underneath
  4. If you sand any imperfections out within 2 days leave it another 1-2 days before recoating
  5. If the products says to bake then do that.
  6. When baking leave it in the oven until it cools down.  Also don't rest it on a painted surface.  The baking will soften the paint and it needs to cool down to harden up again.

 

The most problems you'll have it if you don't have a properly cleaned and prepared surface, and if you try and get too much coverage on the early costs.  Fresh paint can dissolve the coat underneath so it has the same effect as going too thick.

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I looked at that poli84.  Bodyshop Paint Supplies highly recommended it but the reason I didn't go for it was that I wanted to clear coat over the PORSCHE lettering.  I was worried that any clear over the top would peel off given that the POR product is so hard.

 

I know POR15 has adhesion issues if you don't rough it up or use a special primer so I didn't want to take the risk, assuming of course that their caliper paint was similar.  If I wasn't going to clear coat it I would have used this.

 

It would be good to hear from someone who has used it.

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I looked at that poli84.  Bodyshop Paint Supplies highly recommended it but the reason I didn't go for it was that I wanted to clear coat over the PORSCHE lettering.  I was worried that any clear over the top would peel off given that the POR product is so hard.

 

I know POR15 has adhesion issues if you don't rough it up or use a special primer so I didn't want to take the risk, assuming of course that their caliper paint was similar.  If I wasn't going to clear coat it I would have used this.

 

It would be good to hear from someone who has used it.

Glad you looked into it and have received good reviews.

Is this Bodyshop paint in Cremorne? Do they sell these kits do you know?

 

Your calipers must be the later style where the 'PORSCHE' is a decal and not 3D and moulded like my earlier ones?

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