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Leather Care


Paul Carrera

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Hi all I have just bought another car and the leather seats need some attention. I will re dye them but firstly I want to try to make them softer and was wondering what is the best product to use, I read somewhere stuff used for saddles is good but I want the best product I can get

Thanks

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Hi Paul

Same, tried Leatherique and was amazed at the result for cleaning and sprucing up. Dyeing is somewhat different, if you have black no problem anything else becomes more of a challenge. The trick is to apply in small stages and built up to requirement.Hope this helps. 

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Thanks for the replies I will have a look at leatherique and may be in touch Hughesy. The colour is dark blue and I'm not looking at changing the colour only trying to refresh it although there will be a couple of new panels. Thanks coastr it would be good to try some on a small area

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Hi Paul,

The ideal is to find somewhere from the seat that has not seen sunlight along eith th e ability to be cut and sent for colour match. I was most impressed and pleased with the match. Plenty of videos and write-ups on technique. As mentioned by JAX57 slow, steady and light coats. I ended up using some of my car washing sponge to dab on the layers. Once ready for dye stage, I can also advise to take the seats out and place them on the work bench for easy access. For the conditioning stage definitley leave them in the car and wrapped in plastic so the product works into the leather.

All this information is provided with the instructions, but happy to share my experiences as you need.

Cheers...Peter

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I have done this on a set of badly worn Boxster seats and it was pretty straight forward, my seats were black so colour matching was straight forward. I used Gliptone rather than Leatherique, there was a reason why I chose Gliptone but I don't remember what it was :( I am happy with Gliptone and have recommended it to others.

This is what I did:

1) Take seats out of car

2) Clean the seats with a damp wet cloth.

3) Lightly sand the leather, in particular in places where it is cracked or worn.  Use nothing coarser than a 400 to 600 grit sandpaper and be very careful. Clean thoroughly again with a damp cloth to remove grit as this will look crap in the dye.

4) Use a leather cleaner product to clean further.  I used Gliptone, with this you lightly spray a section of the seat with water, apply a small amount of the cleaner, agitate with a brush and then wipe off with a clean lint free cloth.  I bought a packet of clothes and kept using clean clothes to make sure the seats were clean and gunk was not smeared around by a dirty cloth.  Do this at least twice for each seat, anything you don't get at this stage will be stuck under the dye so worth doing this properly.

5) Let the seats dry.

6) Condition the leather, its critical you do this before applying the dye, once the dye is applied the leather won't accept conditioner for up to six months.  Put as many coats on as required, I put a heap on as the leather was quite dried out.

7) Let the conditioner dry, I let the seats sit there for a week, I reckon this is the minimum period before you apply the dye. At this stage the seats should already be looking much better.

8) Find some appropriately coloured dye.  You will find codes on the Internet for the colour matching.  I got mine off ebay and from a specialist in England.  I bought a litre and that was enough.  I bought more rather than less on basis that buying it in two batches might cause colour matching issues with different batches etc.

9) Buy some sponges.  I got some from local hardware stores which had handles like paInt brushes for about $5 or $10.

10) Pour a small about of dye into a pot and dilute to about 20% dye to 80%water.  Dab on using the sponge in super thin coat.  Put some glad wrap over the pot with dye and wait 2 hours.  Repeat this step.  Throw away any left over dye and clean pot.  (You can lightly sand between coats with a 1000 or 2000 grit sand paper but I am not convinced this is necessary and if you do you need to also lightly clean with damp cloth to remove residue).

11) Repeat step 10 but dilute dye to about 40% dye and 60% water.  Dab on using a super thin coat, as before put on two super thin coats with a two hour gap between coats.  Steps 10 and 11 should create a good base for the application of thicker dye in step 11.

12) This is the final step and this requires patience.  At this point you will be getting excited and the seats will have started to look amazing and you could be tempted to put on thick coats whatever you do DONT!!  it will look crap.  Dilute dye to 60% dye and 40% water and apply with sponges in super super thin coats.  Take your time!!  You will need at least two coats.  If you put it on too thick it will run and it will look rubbish and you will need to sand dye back and start all over again.

That's it, should looks amazing.  

Couple of other tips:

- If you are in a hurry you can use a hairdryer to dry dye between coats and potentially you can dry the seats in 15 minutes which would rapidly speed up the process

- Clean thoroughly and frequently.  You will be amazed how much better the seats look just after a really good clean.

- Be patient with sanding, if you sand too much there is no coming back from it!!

- Super thin coats, take your time and don't rush the last coats when the dye is thickest or it will run and ruin your hard work

- Thoroughly clean and vacuum wherever you are letting the seats dry otherwise dust and other detritus will settle on wet dye and ruin finish

- Have a lot of light around you when applying dye so you can see any spots you miss or coats that are running, easier to fix when dye is till wet.

- Thoroughly research your colours, Porsche has used slightly different colours so not all blacks, tans, blues etc are the same.  Google will help you with this and if you choose a reputable company you should get a good colour match.

- With a lighter colour like a tan or on really worn seats I suspect you may need to think about three coats at each dilution level

- Let the seats dry for at least a day before sitting on them, I waited a week.

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paul the leatherqueis great.. when yoy use the prestine to remove grime make sure you use a lint free cloth damp with warm water to scrub the leather immediately after you do each section.. the finer inbuilt dirt will come out easier.. rub along the the crease lines

amazing results.... good luck  and be patient... 

the more you rub the happier the endingB)

hughesy

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With me if it smells unnatural I generally don't  use it  for the  chemicals in it, I don't trust any chemicals on my leather As the car is a Daily Driver including Hot Summer Days in the Sunlight on the rear deck where it gets very very hot , so it has to protect very well against UV's and Heat

I have a long  history of real world application not just (use it cos it makes your leather most shiny),  Dubbin neutral shoe polish Which is im sure a fraction of the price of the branded chemical laden stuff most people use.

In whatever brand you find.

You can adjust the amount of shine you want by the more rubbed in the shinier it will become, and its /natural! :)

Plus with Dubbin you can use it on your shoes to keep them shiny too!

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So my Leatherqueis package arrived in the mail today ,,,read the instructions and rubber a good amount of the rejuvenator into the driver and passenger seats ,,,,will leave it for 24hrs and follow up with the pristine clean ....................:D

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I used the Leatherique system to rejuvenate my leather seats.  Before I started the seats were shiny, sticky and smelt like someone had been chain smoking in them for 30 years.  The results I got were genuinely amazing.  Not only were they clean but the heavy shine went away and what was left was a very natural looking leather, and also much softer.

The key is to leave the oil on and let it really soak in.  Be liberal with it because the product works best when there is enough to soak right into the natural pores.  I did it by hand which I found worked well.  You might find 2 treatments are needed.  After the Pristine Clean I then applied a little more oil, this time with a clean cloth just to even out the finish.

 

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Applied the pristine clean this evening ,,followed the instructions and could not believe how much crap came out of the drivers set ,,,need less to say I am impressed with the results after just one application ,,,,And will be following up with a second over the weekend ,,,,great product worth every penny ...........:D

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Update Time. I have used the rejuvenator and pristine clean and the seats have come up fantastic. I will do another round this weekend. Initially I was going to dye all the seats but now I plan to just do the rear backs that are going to be reupholstered in a week or so as the tops have split from sun damage. I can send a sample from the underside of them that will be in perfect condition. 

As as regards the rear seats the only leather I can get for the centre section has the small holes but they have a smaller pitch than the originals and wondering how noticeable it will be, I think it will be ok but what do others think?

also the rear carpet has faded and wondered if anyone has tried the dyes on carpet or know of any other products

thanks chaps

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  • 1 month later...

Save big $ and use German formula plain Nivea. Not your bathroom moisturiser , for those that are so inclined.

$9 a jar

See http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w124-e-ce-d-td-class/2490809-could-best-leather-treatment-yet.html

 

Also , if you like leather smell , know that the smell is the tanning process. Your modern leather is polyurethane coated so any leather smell is artificial chemicals ; if you are happy to get that on your mucous membranes...

By: Don Fuller / autoMedia.com

Ask a random sampling of automotive consumers what single thing most typifies luxury in a car and the first answer is likely to be "leather upholstery," even though leather can be had in cars with nameplates that are much more associated with low price and thrifty transportation than those we more commonly think of as luxury models. All that leather is nice in the showroom, but many car owners are at a complete loss when it comes to caring for it.

Skin Deep

Leather has undergone a huge transformation since Babe Ruth grabbed a ball glove or Buffalo Bill threw a leg over a saddle. The tanning processes of the old days were found to be quite environmentally unsound, so new leather preparation techniques had to be developed. As it turns out, what most of us think of as that "leather smell" is not really the leather itself, but was the residue of the old tanning processes; when the processes changed for environmental reasons the smell went away, so the scientists had to find a way to artificially re-introduce that familiar, friendly smell of leather.

What might work on a baseball glove or saddle will most definitely not work on the seats in your car. Another point that few people know is that virtually all automotive leather is finished with a kind of opaque "paint" that leaves a more-or-less impermeable surface on top. Thus, it cannot be "restored" by rubbing some kind of "oil" into it, for the simple reason that the stuff you're trying to rub into it cannot get past the painted surface. What might work on a baseball glove or saddle will most definitely not work on the seats in your car.

Keep It Clean

The absolute best thing you can do for automotive leather upholstery is actually quite simple: Keep it clean. When the leather gets dirty, that dirt is in small particles that collect on the surface. Every time you open your car door and slide into and across the seat, your backside is grinding those tiny dirt particles into the leather finish. Think of your backside as a sanding block, the dirt as the sandpaper. Grind it enough and you'll grind the finish off, then you'll have cracks, then more dirt will have places to hide, and you're on the downhill side of a vicious cycle of destruction.

Remember, you're trying to get the dirt off the leather, not rub it in. Use a vacuum to remove dust buildup; a crevice tool will help get into those tight areas around seams and so forth. For cleaning you can use any of several good leather cleaners on the market; just follow the manufacturer's directions. Or, you can use a soft cloth or sponge—make sure they're clean before you start, with lukewarm water and a moderate amount of some very mild soap. Be careful not to rub too harshly, or you'll just be grinding the wet dirt particles into the leather finish. Remember, you're trying to get the dirt off the leather, not rub it in. When you're done, make certain you get all the soap residue off the leather by wiping softly with a slightly damp and clean cloth.

Conditional Care

It's also beneficial to keep the leather protected from the elements, primarily heat. In the summer, parking in the shade as much as possible, or using one of those windshield sunscreens, will keep the sun's heat and UV rays from drying out the leather, which can cause it to become brittle and crack. A visit to your local auto parts store will also acquaint you with a variety of leather protectants and conditioners. As always, follow the manufacturers' recommendations.

The biggest point to remember about leather care is this: Taking care of it up front, by keeping it clean and protected, is by far a better, wiser and cheaper alternative than trying to save it after the damage is done.

 

Also off Ferrarichat

Many of the following statements are controversial and are polar opposite of popular leather care practices recommended by product manufacturers. I've found that some leather care myths are deliberately perpetuated by the industry, especially those on the use of oil-based leather conditioners and others are just common errors of judgment.

Modern automotive finished leather upholstery used by 95% of OEM is a multi strata covering over the leather hide; pigmentation (colour) and an abrasion resistant urethane. Finished leather s only requirement is to be kept clean and protected, urethane doesn’t require conditioning

Definition of Leather conditioning

a) Proteins, collagens and oils cannot permeate the leather and therefore remain on the surface; the same thing will apply to seating surfaces; the problem will be exasperated as the oil will attract dirt/grime to the surface. So the claims of strengthening and nourishing the leathers fibres are groundless as the oils cannot permeate the leather and therefore remain on the surface; the same thing will apply to seating surfaces; the problem will be exasperated as the oil will attract dirt/grime to the surface.
The finished leather used in automobiles is removed from a dead animal and then is subjected to a tanning process. Why would a deceased animal skin (hide) require proteins and collagens, these types of proteins are used to ensure a healthy and elastic dermis and to ensure the tendons remain supple in living tissue.

B) When leather tanners talk about conditioning leather they are referring to re-hydration; not the replenishment or replacement of the fat liquoring oils and waxes. The only 'conditioning' required for finished leather upholstery is hydration; oil-based products cannot permeate the finish leather (urethane pigmentation and / or covering) that is used in 95% plus of modern automobiles.

Modern leather needs to be kept hydrated with moisture to ensure the leather remains flexible and maintains its soft tactile feel. The oils cannot permeate the leather and therefore remain on the surface; the same thing will apply to seating surfaces; the problem will be exasperated as the oil will attract dirt/grime to the surface. This is done by regularly wiping the surface with a damp 100% cotton micro fibre towel and by using aqueous (water- based) leather care products. There is no reason to use oil-based leather care products to condition or feed leather hides

Aqueous (water- based) products are able to permeate deep into the hide, unlike oil, due to its larger particles, whereas water particles are smaller than both oil and the molecules of urethane, which enables aqueous (water- based) products to permeate and provide hydration, which is essential for suppleness recovery.

In summary, an aqueous micro emulsion is readily absorbed into the fibres and provides lasting and effective lubrication without migration, while re-hydration leaves leather feeling silky soft and pliable.

 

 

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I have some of this which is specifically designed to work with modern leathers

http://www.bowdensown.com.au/leather-guard

Some of the above in regards to modern leathers sounds true but doesn't quite gel with my experience.  I have seen modern leather dirty and dry (and shiny) come back to life with this style of cleaner.  I think it's a case of trying products until you're happy.

also Paul I don't know if your 928 leather is the right age to be considered modern...I would guess 928 leather was top shelf at the time.

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also Paul I don't know if your 928 leather is the right age to be considered modern...I would guess 928 leather was top shelf at the time.

Mine are recovered seats , but in the original style e.g. thick hide , not Italian handbag leather. With care it should last the rest of my days. Perhaps the Nivea will keep my creases manageable too.

I've got the pair of original seats with leather bolsters and Pasha seat and back. They look like they have been dragged behind John Wayne's horse through the desert for 50 miles , after surviving reentry from orbit. One day they will be recovered , for occasional domestic or office use.

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  • 2 years later...
1 hour ago, ANF said:

Re-hashing an old thread, my new to me Merc ML has some crap on the leather

Fixed.  Then stop sitting in the car:D. Sorry Adam. Someone has to say it:P

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19 minutes ago, P-Kay said:

Personally, stump up for the leatherique or you could use Gliptone

Thanks, I can't find Gliptone locally (in Aus) so will give the Leatherique a try.

Cheers

See, @3legs some people around here are nice! :cool07:

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