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MFX

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Great news on the windscreen, mate can you do me a favour. Please cover your car when your angle grinding and painting. I have done the same, over spray and grinding fallout all over new paint is nightmare. Worse still, a week or so after my first wash nasty little rust specs started popping up all over the car in hard to get places as the fallout started to rust. I blew the car off with the compressor first but the little buggers stick like glue. Best and cheapest covers are the big plastic drop sheets used for house painting from Bunnings.

 

 

 

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Great news on the windscreen, mate can you do me a favour. Please cover your car when your angle grinding and painting. I have done the same, over spray and grinding fallout all over new paint is nightmare. Worse still, a week or so after my first wash nasty little rust specs started popping up all over the car in hard to get places as the fallout started to rust. I blew the car off with the compressor first but the little buggers stick like glue. Best and cheapest covers are the big plastic drop sheets used for house painting from Bunnings.

I hear you. I have had the same problem in the past, particularly on glass. I make sure I am far enough away, and keep the sparks from the car, but I also plan on sanding the whole car back and buffing it soon, so it should be all good (fingers crossed), but you are right. I should cover it as a precaution.

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  • 2 weeks later...

No update .............:o 

Haha. We are currently in Brooklyn, NY, and we head back to LA in the morning. I hope to shoot an update video on the engine when I am there, so hopefully there will be something to show this week. 

So many things have fallen through though which is quite disappointing. I had arranged to meet up with Nick Murray and shoot a video with him, but he had to head back over to NZ at the last minute. 

I was trying to catch up with Larry from AMMO NYC today, but he is flooded with daddy duties with his wife away at the moment. Then to top it off I was planning on catching up with Jack Olsen again in LA, but he left for London a few days ago... 

I still have some fun stuff to post up though, so it's definitely not all bad.

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As a guy going with coil on plug I'm going to scour the internet and find evidence that supports me using coil on plug and making your guy wrong. I'll be BRB and we can have an internet arguement.

Haha. Have a read of my thread on Pelican http://forums.pelicanparts.com/911-engine-rebuilding-forum/951269-home-built-engine-build-saving-unsaveable-2.html#post9662702 

Neil mentions a bit about it there, and he has mentioned many times, how much difference a quality CDI alone makes to these old engines. I have done a bit of my own research and there seems to be quite a difference between CDI and Inductive coils. From what I have read, inductive works well down low, but run out of puff up high. That is fine on modern engines but we are talking about a much larger volume. Bottom line is I have NFI, I am just relying on Neil's experience.

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Well I have been away in the US for the past few weeks, and while I was there I dropped back in to Performance Developments so I could bring home some bits and also give you all an update on what is going on with the engine.

 

Any more info on the upgraded oil pump bits?

 

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Any more info on the upgraded oil pump bits?

Not as yet, but as I mentioned, they will be available to all. Apparently all 911 oil pumps have the same offset, just some are longer than others, so PD will make these available to everyone, and as he mentions frequently they should be about the same price as standard replacements. 

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Not as yet, but as I mentioned, they will be available to all. Apparently all 911 oil pumps have the same offset, just some are longer than others, so PD will make these available to everyone, and as he mentions frequently they should be about the same price as standard replacements. 

Cool . Thanks for info will keep my eye out.

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 Glad to know it's not just me with some electrical problems! When I had rego inspection, the inspector noticed that when I touch the brake pedal, the left front parking light comes on. Easy solution he says, remove the bulb till I sort it out! The other one I noticed is the interior light doesn't work, and the left rear brake light sometimes goes out, yet I only know when that is out because the interior light then works! Indicators work fine, yet the little direction lights in the tacho, only one works and is very faint. Have changed the relay at great expense (or I just got ripped off by a particular Porsche shop) but that ain't it. Had a very experienced old school auto sparky I've used loads of times to look at it, and after 2 hours then getting his son to come over to help, they both said they have no f.....g idea what it is and left without giving me a bill! (Shady Speedway will need to spend a few hours on it methinks, as he advised it's probably an earth problem in the dash or something) The fuses are arse about (left indicator fuse operates the right side etc) and there's a ciggy packet sized box tapped into the main fuse panel, so I'd say that's some sort of alarm stuffing everything up. I'm scared to even start sorting it out myself, as me and electrics don't get on very well at all!

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Yep. That all sounds similar to the issues I am looking at on this thing. The rear lights are wired correctly by the wiring diagram, but the brake lights are flashing instead of the indicator. The indicator signals on the dash work, but they are both on the whole time, and when I put an indicator on the opposite one flashes while the correct on is constant...

I can see there is hours of fun waiting for me to get it all working properly.

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Jeff,

Good work as always!

With your oil tank, can I strongly suggest you thoroughly rinse it with a solvent a couple of times to make sure it is perfectly clean as on these cars the oil leaving the tank is not filtered and goes straight to the oil pump and then the bearings.  I'd hate to see your new engine suffer from a clump of grit. 

(The oil is only filtered when it is returned to the tank  so another reason to use clean paper towel when checking the dipstick rather than a rag.  They only addressed this risk on the 964's onwards by adding another filter on the engine.)

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Jeff,

Good work as always!

With your oil tank, can I strongly suggest you thoroughly rinse it with a solvent a couple of times to make sure it is perfectly clean as on these cars the oil leaving the tank is not filtered and goes straight to the oil pump and then the bearings.  I'd hate to see your new engine suffer from a clump of grit. 

(The oil is only filtered when it is returned to the tank  so another reason to use clean paper towel when checking the dipstick rather than a rag.  They only addressed this risk on the 964's onwards by adding another filter on the engine.)

Just to back this point up Cairns have been very insistent that they clean my tank and lines for my hotrod as apparently it's easy not to get them 100% clean and with obvious negative consequences.

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That is some great advice. I will definitely do just that. As you say, with all this work on the engine, I don't want it all down the tube due to some crud in the oil lines.

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Jeff.  Thanks for cleaning the garage.  My obsessive compulsive nature just loves the fact that the garage is now tidy.  It just makes working more pleasant when things are tidy and in their correct place (but that is just me).  I am now going outside to tidy up my workshop again.  Love your work.

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Jeff.  Thanks for cleaning the garage.  My obsessive compulsive nature just loves the fact that the garage is now tidy.  It just makes working more pleasant when things are tidy and in their correct place (but that is just me).  I am now going outside to tidy up my workshop again.  Love your work.

HAHAHA. I must admit it feels so much better to be in there now.

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