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MFX

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  • 3 weeks later...
  • 3 weeks later...

Put it on an American dyno... extra 30hp

Different temperatures on different days?

What lambda/afr was he targeting?

If it feels fast, forget about the dyno chart.. drive the car and enjoy it. Sounds like it's an honest sub 200... lots of dynos read a lot higher to make the owners feel better about parting with their money.

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7 hours ago, OZ930 said:

Didn’t you play with the exhaust between dyno checks ?  May have disturbed something ??

just a random thought

 

I did, but all I really did was add in the V band clamps. As my bi-modal exhaust didn't work I have just been running the old unit as it sounds much better.

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23 hours ago, MFX said:
It is finally time to get Harry 911 back on the dyno for the full tune, but it doesn't all go as I hoped.

Jeff,

Don't let the fake news of the US forums get you down, your engine isn't shabby at all.

197 Mainline rwhp = 230 Dynojet rwhp = 265 Dynojet fwhp if you use the commonly accepted "conversion factors.

That's common 3.2SS/3.4 territory plus you have another 1000rpm usable revs!

As for the difference you really need to look at the factors that Mike listed above plus humidity, air pressure and your various tuners willingness to court knock.  The change in tie down could also be the difference too.

Horsepower Dyno Readings, USA compared to AUS, et. al. (hpacademy.com)

911Chips - Porsche Dyno Runs

 

 

  

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I still say, you should try a quality set of headers. And run open pipes for the dyno. Just to see if you can rule out exhaust as a limiting factor. Our n/a cars are fairly sensitive to exhaust changes.

It is possible with the cams and headwork, that your stock headers (I think they are stock?) are strangling it at higher rpm. 

Low down is fine and I imagine it feels quite torquey.. the smaller diameter pipe might be give you a higher gas velocity.. but isn't able to flow the volume the motor needs at high rpm?

Cam timing also plays a part.. advance the cam to give more torque down low, but less top end HP. Retard the cam to go the other way.. but I imagine those cams were designed to run at a fairly specific setting.

Just an opinion...

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1 hour ago, Mike D'Silva said:

I still say, you should try a quality set of headers. And run open pipes for the dyno. Just to see if you can rule out exhaust as a limiting factor. Our n/a cars are fairly sensitive to exhaust changes.

It is possible with the cams and headwork, that your stock headers (I think they are stock?) are strangling it at higher rpm. 

Low down is fine and I imagine it feels quite torquey.. the smaller diameter pipe might be give you a higher gas velocity.. but isn't able to flow the volume the motor needs at high rpm?

Cam timing also plays a part.. advance the cam to give more torque down low, but less top end HP. Retard the cam to go the other way.. but I imagine those cams were designed to run at a fairly specific setting.

Just an opinion...

It definitely could be the exhaust. I have no idea if my headers are stock, but I don't think so as they did not have heat exchangers. Cam timing is something I could definitely tweak, but I am not that keen to pull the engine down again at this stage. I would prefer to do whatever external tests I can do first. Either way I am in no hurry as it still drives great and I just want to enjoy it a bit for a while ;) 

 

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