Redracn Posted 28July, 2021 Report Share Posted 28July, 2021 1 hour ago, MFX said: Working through the tune again today. I have tested the Head temp sensor and it seems pretty close to the range. Between 10 and 50 degrees it is pretty much spot on with my laser temp gun. It drops off a bit at the far ranges. It was reading 5 degrees in the 0 degree ice water and got to around 68 degrees with the recently boiled water my temp gun read at 75. I have looked to find a better place to put it, but I am not sure there is. I could make a little bracket similar to the ones shown on Pelican, but my fins seem much tighter than the ones on there. It would need a 2mm thick arm to clamp in the gap in the fins and I am not sure it could be strong enough to hold. I think I will change the parameters in the warm up to fade off to 0 by 40c so it is not messing with my fuelling when warm and see how it goes. I am also going to recheck the balance of the ITB's as I suspect they could be out a bit. I don’t want to put a damper on it but a temp gun ( I.e one that you point and pull the trigger) is not capable of measuring the temperature of water or anything shinny or clear or any of dozens of other types of surface finishes and colours unless the emissivity is specifically set for that of the target object. MFX 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MFX Posted 28July, 2021 Author Report Share Posted 28July, 2021 58 minutes ago, Redracn said: I don’t want to put a damper on it but a temp gun ( I.e one that you point and pull the trigger) is not capable of measuring the temperature of water or anything shinny or clear or any of dozens of other types of surface finishes and colours unless the emissivity is specifically set for that of the target object. It seemed to get pretty close to what I think it should be, but either way I have adjusted the warm up map now and the car still seems to run ok at this stage. I will tweak more later. As for the log. By fading out the warm up map I factored in that I have now taken away upto 5% or so of enrichment from that, but I used your formula of 'New fuel val = Old Fuel val x actual lambda / target lambda. I am definitely getting closer to the target, but probably a tad lean. I will do one more correction and I think that should get it pretty good. It is probably still a bit leaner around 2500 than I would like and even though I rolled into the throttle a bit more there still seems to be a lot of throttle enrichment, but the log is getting better. I spent a bit of time trying to sync the ITB's and I have them a lot closer now but you can still see a difference off throttle. I am thinking that is less of an issue though. What I am more concerned about is I was seeing very lean readings at part throttle at around 3500 rpm. A am not sure how bad that is, but I think I will try to fatten that up a bit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Redracn Posted 28July, 2021 Report Share Posted 28July, 2021 That 3500rpm is a transient issue. Is the acceleration enrichment turned on?. Can you log any transient compensation?.. The lambda for the part of the run that I would assume no transient is in place is now taking shape nicely. A bit more work would get it very close. Only issue I see is the bank separation at 6000rpm is at the limit of ok. They progressively seperate and then come back together so would seem to be a function of the engine. Could easily be fixed with individual bank or cylinder tuning for a perfect result. When it comes to sensors I like the name to indicate what it is measuring and at the moment I really could not call the measurement cylinder head temperature as it is just to far from what a cylinder head should be. Also I always like have it so that you can remove / replace / change the sensor for another etc and always get the same reading. This ensures parts are interchangeable and that anybody can reassemble/service with no issues. I am not sure the so called head temp measurements would meet this requirement. Yep you can just use the value from it but be aware that changing the sensor or brand etc may change the reading requiring the compensations to be adjusted accordingly. Also the value could change with time which is problematic. MFX 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MFX Posted 5August, 2021 Author Report Share Posted 5August, 2021 In this episode I look a bit deeper into Harry's tuning from a couple of weeks ago and see how much we can smooth out on the road. Troubleshooter, Redracn, Scott930 and 1 other 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OBRUT Posted 6August, 2021 Report Share Posted 6August, 2021 A quick thanks to Jeff @MFX and @Redracn for the heads up and info on the sensor issue. I just went through this on my motec / pmo 2.7 litre powered 911 hotrod. Car was hard to start, ran like a pig when cold and didn’t like transitioning between idle and say 1500rpm without a lurch. I got Andrew at Superior Auto in Mona Vale to swap the oil temp sensor for the M6 type and retune the computer to suit. The result was a huge improvement - basically resolved all the above issues. And this was with retaining is the late 80’s / early 90’s motec ecu too. Ps. I would very much recommend Andrew/Superior for this type of work. Great work, no nonsense and clear comms. Pps. 199hp at the tyres too! hugh, Redracn and Fishcop 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MFX Posted 6August, 2021 Author Report Share Posted 6August, 2021 1 hour ago, OBRUT said: A quick thanks to Jeff @MFX and @Redracn for the heads up and info on the sensor issue. I just went through this on my motec / pmo 2.7 litre powered 911 hotrod. Car was hard to start, ran like a pig when cold and didn’t like transitioning between idle and say 1500rpm without a lurch. I got Andrew at Superior Auto in Mona Vale to swap the oil temp sensor for the M6 type and retune the computer to suit. The result was a huge improvement - basically resolved all the above issues. And this was with retaining is the late 80’s / early 90’s motec ecu too. Ps. I would very much recommend Andrew/Superior for this type of work. Great work, no nonsense and clear comms. Pps. 199hp at the tyres too! Where did you put the sensor out of interest? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OBRUT Posted 6August, 2021 Report Share Posted 6August, 2021 5 minutes ago, MFX said: Where did you put the sensor out of interest? Replaced one of the shroud bolts - I’ll send you a pic. MFX 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Redracn Posted 6August, 2021 Report Share Posted 6August, 2021 3 hours ago, OBRUT said: A quick thanks to Jeff @MFX and @Redracn for the heads up and info on the sensor issue. I just went through this on my motec / pmo 2.7 litre powered 911 hotrod. Car was hard to start, ran like a pig when cold and didn’t like transitioning between idle and say 1500rpm without a lurch. I got Andrew at Superior Auto in Mona Vale to swap the oil temp sensor for the M6 type and retune the computer to suit. The result was a huge improvement - basically resolved all the above issues. And this was with retaining is the late 80’s / early 90’s motec ecu too. Ps. I would very much recommend Andrew/Superior for this type of work. Great work, no nonsense and clear comms. Pps. 199hp at the tyres too! Do you mind telling me the model of the Motec ECU you are using? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OBRUT Posted 7August, 2021 Report Share Posted 7August, 2021 12 hours ago, Redracn said: Do you mind telling me the model of the Motec ECU you are using? No worries, M48. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter M Posted 12August, 2021 Report Share Posted 12August, 2021 Further to our recent discussion on VE tuning, I thought Haltech did a good job explaining it with this video from last week: (104) 🛠 Volumetric Efficiency - Live Tuning | TECHNICALLY SPEAKING - YouTube Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MFX Posted 15December, 2021 Author Report Share Posted 15December, 2021 There have been a bunch of niggling problems on Harry since finishing the built that I still need to sort out. This week I finally get the wipers to park themselves. tomo 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MFX Posted 17February, 2022 Author Report Share Posted 17February, 2022 In this episode I replace the Porsche 915 gear selector shaft seal, and tear my hair out bleeding the brakes of Harry 911 tomo, Scott930 and P-Kay 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MFX Posted 30March, 2022 Author Report Share Posted 30March, 2022 This week I demonstrate what not to do with Porsche Fuchs wheels then attempt to fix them. Then I go through and fix a whole bunch of niggling issues with Harry 911. itsujack and Reub 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter M Posted 30March, 2022 Report Share Posted 30March, 2022 I can recommend Autosol Anodised Aluminium polish for Fuchs. I don't think Supercheap sell it but Repco and Bunnings do. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MFX Posted 31March, 2022 Author Report Share Posted 31March, 2022 13 hours ago, Peter M said: I can recommend Autosol Anodised Aluminium polish for Fuchs. I don't think Supercheap sell it but Repco and Bunnings do. That is what I used in the end once the anodising was screwed, but if they are still anodised you should only use vaseline. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
P-Kay Posted 31March, 2022 Report Share Posted 31March, 2022 Jeff, I understand your point of having to redo the polishing, however I doubt you will find it is as often as you think. The ones on my wide body were only done yearly (if I remembered), otherwise they held up pretty well. MFX 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MFX Posted 31March, 2022 Author Report Share Posted 31March, 2022 54 minutes ago, P-Kay said: Jeff, I understand your point of having to redo the polishing, however I doubt you will find it is as often as you think. The ones on my wide body were only done yearly (if I remembered), otherwise they held up pretty well. I have actually had the suggestion to ceramic coat them by a couple of people and I think that is the move for the easy long term shine P-Kay 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter M Posted 31March, 2022 Report Share Posted 31March, 2022 8 hours ago, MFX said: That is what I used in the end once the anodising was screwed, but if they are still anodised you should only use vaseline. Funny, at 10.30 it looks like you using Autosol Aluminium Polish not Autosol Anodised Aluminium Polish and that's what peaked my concern. I think all Fuchs owners know the moment of panic when the wheel cleaner they have just casually sprayed is doing more than it should! I have used Porsche's recommendation many times but I have found Autosol Anodised Aluminium Polish to give better results, particularly with hiding water shadowing. For general cleaning I just use detailer spray to remove the brake dust. That's Ok, use what works for you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MFX Posted 31March, 2022 Author Report Share Posted 31March, 2022 Didn't know there was a thing, but the anodising was stuffed anyway Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coastr Posted 31March, 2022 Report Share Posted 31March, 2022 Here’s my recommendation for wheel cleaners: 1) throw any product calling itself a wheel cleaner in the bin. Take out any which say ‘safe for all wheel surfaces and finishes’ out and throw them in the bin again for good measure. 2) sit down on a stool and clean your wheels with a sponge and bucket of soapy water, rinse with hose and blow dry with a leaf blower. I learnt my lessons the hard way. GC9911, patrick911, itsujack and 2 others 5 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Raven Posted 1April, 2022 Report Share Posted 1April, 2022 Yeh anything with Caustic soda or Sodium hydroxide in it will strip anodizing and it is very common for wheel cleaners to have those ingredients in them , I feel your pain Jeff MFX 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MFX Posted 3July, 2022 Author Report Share Posted 3July, 2022 I have been driving Harry 911 for quite a while now and it is definitely time for some much needed upgrades. Redracn, Stepo, Scott930 and 3 others 6 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MFX Posted 31July, 2022 Author Report Share Posted 31July, 2022 This week I take you on a drive in Harry and find out something I have been wondering about for quite some time now. I am busy working on the Alfarrari in the background, but I thought this would be better than another very boring sanding video.https://youtu.be/WlRE2iGZ9Eo Scott930, tomo, Raven and 1 other 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter M Posted 31July, 2022 Report Share Posted 31July, 2022 1160kg fully wet! Interesting, thanks for posting Jeff. MFX 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MFX Posted 1August, 2022 Author Report Share Posted 1August, 2022 4 hours ago, Peter M said: 1160kg fully wet! Interesting, thanks for posting Jeff. Heavier than I thought, but for a car with great A/C and an overkill roll cage, it makes sense. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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