Larry shows us how to clay a car

[tomo]

 

[tazzieman]

I swear by clay and use it often. I had to teach myself, but I can understand how some people need to watch a 7 minute video to get the hang of it!

Hopefully some will now be brave enough to attempt claying their cars. Clay parties may spring up at SMTs,  it's all good!

[spiller]

Big fan of Larry's videos, just wish his products were easy to get hold of here. I'm generally pretty lazy with detailing but how long does one use a clay bar for before its ready for the bin? 

[Niko]

BE CAREFUL...BE VERY CAREFUL...

 

IF.....you are going to do a black car.  

I am now of the belief, due to recent activities, that some black cars do not take kindly to being clayed.   It may cause cloudiness to the paint surface....

[Mike737]

Big fan of Larry's videos, just wish his products were easy to get hold of here. I'm generally pretty lazy with detailing but how long does one use a clay bar for before its ready for the bin? 

Well that's an interesting question as there's a bit your missing in between. When to swap from using it on my paint, to my glass, to my wheels, then to my exhaust, then to throw out.

To answer when to stop using it on your paint; when it is dried out or you can no longer kneed it into an uncontaminated face. Swap to your wheels or glass depending on which one can take more abuse. Once you've used it on your glass for a little while, but your starting to leave contaminants behind, switch to wheels as there's a lot more contamination there compared to on your glass. Finally switch to exhaust and then bin.

Oh and if you drop it, move it on to the next step.

BE CAREFUL...BE VERY CAREFUL...

 

IF.....you are going to do a black car.  

I am of the belief due to recent activities that black cars do not take kindly to being clayed.   It may cause cloudiness to the paint surface....

Was the surface re-washed after being clayed?

I always rewash as you can't guarantee you haven't left any contaminants on the car even. Then reapply your wax. A clayed surface is a bare surface susceptible to the possibility of sustaining more damage than a dirty surface as there is no protective "skin" in between. Your always trying to achieve layers. The more layers you have, the more protection. AFAIK you cannot have too many sealant/wax layers and they can be in any combination, but different sealants layered in different ways can achieve slightly different results.

[SteveF]

BE CAREFUL...BE VERY CAREFUL...

 

IF.....you are going to do a black car.  

I am now of the belief, due to recent activities, that some black cars do not take kindly to being clayed.   It may cause cloudiness to the paint surface....

Hey Niko,

If you don't mind me asking what happened? Feel free to PM me if your prefer. I have two black cars (yes I am nuts) and just did the Mazda 6 as a test before doing the Audi and didn't have any issues. 

[Niko]

Apparently clay bars on SOME black cars will cause swirl marks, no matter how careful you are.

Well known here in Victoria and very respected car detailer Michael BAILEY has suggested not to use clay bars on them, but if you do...

use older used clay, not new clay.   Even then you will more than likely leave marks on the surface.   It will then have to be machine polished to remove those swirl marks.

I have just checked my facts before replying on this, so to clarify not so much of a cloudy surface issue, but swirl and surface marks.

Steve, If you didn't have problems with the Mazda 6 then maybe that paint is of a different construction to other cars.

Age of the car (paint) may also play a factor (that's me, only assuming not Michael)

All I am saying is.... if you intend to do a black car especially a Porsche, be very careful..

[SteveF]

Thanks Niko for clarifying. It is an older clay bar so maybe that was ok. I will be more careful before embarking on the other car.

So if you have a black car, does anyone have any suggestions as to what other recommended options are available rather than claying?

[spiller]

Mine is black, I had it detailed and opticoated 12 months ago but the swirls have come back after a year of washing (even when taking care with two buckets). Now if I have the car repolished the opticoat will be stripped in this process? I honestly think sealants (not wax) are a waste of time with a black car as you're always polishing here and there. Or have I got it all wrong? 

[Mike737]

Mine is black, I had it detailed and opticoated 12 months ago but the swirls have come back after a year of washing (even when taking care with two buckets). Now if I have the car repolished the opticoat will be stripped in this process? I honestly think sealants (not wax) are a waste of time with a black car as you're always polishing here and there. Or have I got it all wrong? 

Opticoat is essentially like adding more clear coat, so if you cut and polish it, then yes you are removing it, but your not removing much clear coat if any. Also the type of sealant can be harder than your clear coat so it adds more protection, whilst others can be softer.

Apparently clay bars on SOME black cars will cause swirl marks, no matter how careful you are.

Well known here in Victoria and very respected car detailer Michael BAILEY has suggested not to use clay bars on them, but if you do...

use older used clay, not new clay.   Even then you will more than likely leave marks on the surface.   It will then have to be machine polished to remove those swirl marks.

I have just checked my facts before replying on this, so to clarify not so much of a cloudy surface issue, but swirl and surface marks.

Steve, If you didn't have problems with the Mazda 6 then maybe that paint is of a different construction to other cars.

Age of the car (paint) may also play a factor (that's me, only assuming not Michael)

All I am saying is.... if you intend to do a black car especially a Porsche, be very careful..

Porsche tries to paint their cars so it doesn't have any (orange) peel in it. Other manufacturers, in this case Mazda, have some amount of peel depending on what they deem to be ok and is a way of decreasing the cost to make the car as the process isn't as exact. A car which has more peel means you can get away with a less than perfect surface, meaning that marks won't show up as quick compared to staring at a mirror like finish (Porsche). Essentially a surface with peel is a rougher surface where paint is not even and scatters light back in different directions. If the peel is in the clear coat, it can be corrected.

Here's an example of an M3 at a dealership which has quite a bit of peel.

You are correct that you will leave marks with the clay bar, as your lifting and moving contaminants across the surface of the coat your working with. A soft unused clay bar will not create marks by itself. The reason why Michael says to use an older clay bar is because the clay material becomes softer with age from my understanding, so contaminants are more likely to move further away from the surface of the paint as you pick them up. The reason why you use a clay bar is to remove the contaminants from the paints surface because either;

a.) the surface is being prepared for paint correction and dirt on a pad will require you to clean the pad or work harder to achieve your desired outcome or
b.) to remove a major defect in the paint caused by contamination which can't be removed without touching the paint

Detailing is a balance where every time you touch the car you are technically damaging the paint work. To combat this you add things like waxes and sealants so you have more layers to damage before you hit the factory clear coat.

Thanks Niko for clarifying. It is an older clay bar so maybe that was ok. I will be more careful before embarking on the other car.

So if you have a black car, does anyone what other recommended options are available rather than claying?

If you're trying to prep it for paint correction or correct an area which is heavily contaminated, then no. Always try and remove the contamination with the softest method you think will work first and then gradually increase to harsher methods. Claying is one of generally one of the last options for me before a cutting compound, but it works extremely well for when someone decides to scrape and leave their paint on your car, road tar or rubber transferred from super soft tyres.

When I refer to microfibre cloths, there are different types out there. Make sure you use an trusted detailing automotive brand cloth and it should be ok for use.

 

 

[SteveF]

Thanks Mike for your detailed reply. 

[tazzieman]

The thread has reaffirmed the belief that black cars are like certain types of ladies - high maintenance and potentially troublesome - whereas appliance white cars are like farm girls  

Clay bars are so cheap you can use them once and chuck them. We are cleaning PORSCHES aren't we?

Or , if "reasonably frugal" like me , use them the 2nd-6th time on lesser cars. But never old Land Rovers. Never!

[Deejay]

If you have swirls in your paint, then you're washing, claying, polishing and waxing the wrong way.

Like Larry says "Straight Lines, never circles"

[firstone]

2 cents.

They're probably old buff marks.

They can be removed. 

The clay has made your surface clean so now you can see them?

[Niko]

Mine is black, I had it detailed and opticoated 12 months ago but the swirls have come back after a year of washing (even when taking care with two buckets). Now if I have the car repolished the opticoat will be stripped in this process? I honestly think sealants (not wax) are a waste of time with a black car as you're always polishing here and there. Or have I got it all wrong? 

This might be worth a try for you.   I haven't used it properly yet on mine.   I did use it for a very small sort of scratch I put on the car (with my bloody ring) while washing it.

I used this on the graze and it certainly took the impact out of it, and blended it back in pretty well.

I am an Auto Glym fanatic, but I have promised myself I am going to give this a try...

 

[spiller]

^^^ thanks for the recommendation Niko, I didn't know such a product existed. Most of my "swirls" are very fine so that might work well. I have the front of my car wrapped in xpel ultimate and I'm actually at the stage where I'm considering wrapping the remaining 2/3 or the vehicle to put an end to swirls for good.

[spiller]

^^^ thanks for the recommendation Niko, I didn't know such a product existed. Most of my "swirls" are very fine so that might work well. I have the front of my car wrapped in xpel ultimate and I'm actually at the stage where I'm considering wrapping the remaining 2/3 or the vehicle to put an end to swirls for good.

[Niko]

I am pretty sure it is only a new product.  

Also while your talking about the wrap, I use the VUPLEX product in the photo, for the wrap.  

Invisible Car Bra Company actually supply a can when they do the job.  

So when you polish/wax the rest of the car you use that on the wrap.  

I have used it once on my wrap and its very easy to use, spray on wipe off, and available from AUTOBARN

[Oscar]

Does anyone know a good car detailer (with similar knowledge and passion as Larry) in Melbourne? For both paint, other exterior features and interior. Car is in a very good condition but needs to be brought to the showroom level.

[P-Kay]

Does anyone know a good car detailer (with similar knowledge and passion as Larry) in Melbourne? For both paint, other exterior features and interior. Car is in a very good condition but needs to be brought to the showroom level.

Give these guys a bell. I am confident you will be pleased  

http://www.finalinspection.com.au/

 

[MezgerMan]

Does anyone know a good car detailer (with similar knowledge and passion as Larry) in Melbourne? For both paint, other exterior features and interior. Car is in a very good condition but needs to be brought to the showroom level.

Perth PFAers, do you have a similar recommendation in our fair city?

Thanks in advance,

Mr Fussy.

[symsy]

Whats the votes on clays and lubricants  .. any favorites ?

[Tips]

Symsy I use dodo juice lubricant which I mix my self and found it plenty slippery. PM me and I can send u a sample which will be enough to do a car if u wish. Clay bar I had plenty left from a maguires kit so havnt purchased any recently so can't recomend.

i buy all my stuff off carcare products in Syd.

[Mike737]

If you're doing a paint correction as well, it really doesn't matter too much as you will be correcting any damage done with the clay bar and just use a basic wash, no need for special lubricants. Also grab a clay towel instead of a clay bar when doing paint correction as it speeds up the job.

Otherwise if you're just going to touch up an area without paint correction the clay magic bars are still supposed to be one of the best, note that you may create marks but if it's on your silver beast it will be unnoticeable except to the trained eye. Any detailing spray can be used but is generally a waste, buy yourself a spray bottle and fill with car wash and some water with a slightly more concentrated mix to create a highly slippery surface. After you're done claying, use a wax over the top which has some fillers to even out the paint work so any marring is not easily noticeable.

[symsy]

Paint correction.. your gonna suggested ceramic coatings next.. shit maybe I should take it to the detailers

This was just and Autumn virgn sacrifice.. in the boredom of the dark winter nights.. I was/am  going to clay the TT.. first time for the car first time for me..

I had just read that clay like pinnacle was the finest , least damage and minimal residue ..but have no experience .. also heard that it keeps its consistency.

Im an onliner as theres bugger all to buy near me.. so simply just googled and ebay 3M product came up at like 6 bucks.. wondered why others are ike 30 bucks..

I strarted googling as I couldnt even find the pinnacle product for sale in Aus

Its not really even about the money ..just a question really as I dont want to bugger the car..

Cos its original paint, original turtlewax, washed with fairy liquid and dried with my old mans chamois thats 40 years old for years..   I do have multiple buckets of water though… and none of that twenty times recycled shit from the city tap.. god stuff straight off the roof 

Oh I lie before you cringe I did , just buy a bowdens chamois a couple actually and some autoglym aqua wax..

PFA's got me all sophisticated.. but Im still putting HP sauce on my eggs in the morning.

Was gonna polish myself afterwards by hand with DP Max Wax Or PS21 or something I have in the cupboard  that has been bought for the lesser cars. Your gonna also tell me , I need a special polish for White cars also hey ??