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911 SC brake pad replacement


Stew F

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Today I decided to replace the rear pads on my SC. I don't have any particular reason to get you beaut $250 pads for my car. It's just a street car. So a couple of weeks ago I trundled off to the local Repco. They stock a few brands, like Bendix, Ferodo (Baggins), one other that I can't recall the name of, and their own brand.

 

They also had a x% off sale for RAA members. I bought the Repco RCT pads with the orange coating and anti squeal shims. Incidentally, the DB2 pad that's in the back of our old 911's is the same pad that's used on Mercs, some BMWs, Alfas, Ferraris & Maseratis, and just about every volvo built before 1985. So you won't have any problems with pad availability.

 

Tools required.

1. Jack

2. Wheel nut wrench of your choosing

3. Torque wrench

4. Pointy nose pliers

5. Big screwdriver

6. Chassis stand(s)

7. Can of brake cleaner

8. Rags

9. Wet and dry paper 480 grit

 

1. Loosen wheel nuts

2. Jack up the car.

3. Secure with chassis stand. I put them under the torsion bar covers.

4. Remove wheel. At this point, check the discs for any damage.

 

Disclaimer - If the disc is grooved or worn, because the pads have worn down to the backing, or any there's any other damage to the disc, STOP. You need to sort out the disc before fitting the new pads.

 

5. Remove some brake fluid from the master cylinder reservoir if need be. I use a plastic syringe with a bit of PVC tube on it

6. Remove the two pin retaining clips with the pointy nose pliers. Don't lose them.

7. Push the pad retaining pins out

8. Remove the anti rattle spring. One of mine had come apart at the rivet, so I simply pop riveted it back together

9. Pull out the old pads

10. Spray the hell out of the caliper and all the bits to remove all the bust. DON'T BLOW IT OFF WITH COMPRESSED AIR, UNLESS YOU WANT TO DIE FROM CANCER.

11. Dry off with the rags

12. Push one of the pistons all the way back into it's bore and slip in the new pad

12a. Push the other piston back and slip in the other pad

14. Using the wet rub, clean up the pins so they are shiny and new

15. Install the anti rattle spring. I put a bit of spray on brake lube on the 2 fingers that contact the pads

16. Push the pins back in, and reinstall the pin retainer clips

17. Put wheel back on and do nuts up. I like the lightly lubricate my nuts

18. Jack up, remove stand, lower car

19. Do wheel nuts up to correct torque

20. Do the other side

21. Top up master cylinder reservoir

22. Clean up and put tools away

23. Take it for a spin to bed in the new pads according to the manufacturer's instructions. The pads I bought say no bedding in required, but I will still go easy for the first 10 minutes or so.

 

All up, it should take 15 minutes a side. Last time the pads were done, for some reason, the "expert repairer" put silicon on the backing plates. In an attempt to clean all that crap off I accidentally knocked out one of the boot retaining rings. So I had to remove the caliper to get it back in. I also gave the calipers a fresh coat of paint while I was in there. Still, it took me less than an hour from start to finish.

 

Degree of difficulty - 1 spanner (novice)

 

 

Sent from my LG-H815 using Tapatalk

 

 

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On 12 March 2018 at 8:20 PM, Stew F said:

All up, it should take 15 minutes a side. Last time the pads were done, for some reason, the "expert repairer" put silicon on the backing plates. In an attempt to clean all that crap off I accidentally knocked out one of the boot retaining rings. So I had to remove the caliper to get it back in. I also gave the calipers a fresh coat of paint while I was in there. Still, it took me less than an hour from start to finish.

Was this a red anti squeal/anti rattle goo ?

Makes my 3 months seem a bit slow :wacko:

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Was this a red anti squeal/anti rattle goo ?
Makes my 3 months seem a bit slow :wacko:
It was a rough orange coating. Disc and pad conditioning apparently.

Sent from my LG-H815 using Tapatalk

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