OZ930 Posted 18November, 2017 Report Share Posted 18November, 2017 My 2c worthThere is a drain tube at the bottom of the evaporator housing, that is supposed to direct water out and deposit it under the car. I used sikaflex to glue this in place, gluing only the outside. When the Sikaflex had gone off , I then with a sharp knife cut the tube that is inside the Evap. Box so that it was flush with inside surface. Why? Because the Evap. Box sits at an angle when mounted in the car which then allows the water to pool inside the box. The tube inside the box allows the water to build further before it can start draining, because of the lip inside. I found that it was possible for the water to spill out the front of the box onto the floor and carpet. Some Evap boxes have an extended lip to try to prevent this. Mine didn't, but I added a piece of Perspex as well. It is also a reason the fan and motor get corroded.Need a new floor plate ? When you make a new one, modify it so that is allows more air flow to the evaporator. Space out further and or put a grill at the top of the floor plate. Old oven shelves work well for this purpose.Hope this makes sense.Pictures, yes....on the other computer at home. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Caledonian Posted 18November, 2017 Author Report Share Posted 18November, 2017 Cheers OZ930, great tips and its this kind of information that keeps me posting While we are talking about the Evaporator box, did yours (or anyone else's) have a rubber mount/grommet on the RH mounting bracket to the steering coupling tunnel? The PET shows something there but the part (901 573 1133 00) name is "rubber sleeve" and is NLA, so looking a pic to find an alternative. I'm thinking it is probably just a rubber washer of some type? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter M Posted 18November, 2017 Report Share Posted 18November, 2017 Mike, Neither of the two evaporator boxes I've removed have had the "rubber sleeves" in place. Funny both times I've thought "Gee, the hole in the mounting straps are big compared to the bolt" and "Why didn't they use a shorter bolt?" when tightening up the one that goes into the smugglers box cavity. I am reasonably confident that both cars weren't fitted with the sleeves from the factory as I note both had this strip of brown nylon textile (about 1/2 x 2 inches) between the floor and the floor mount steel strap. I've noticed this in photos of other cars too. I think a rubber grommet would work fine as a substitute for the "rubber sleeve" and that's what I'll use when I do my next car, if that ever happens! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OZ930 Posted 19November, 2017 Report Share Posted 19November, 2017 No rubber sleeve on mine either, but mine was packed in boxes when I bought it. You should have come down for the North meets South. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Caledonian Posted 19November, 2017 Author Report Share Posted 19November, 2017 11 hours ago, Peter M said: Mike, Neither of the two evaporator boxes I've removed have had the "rubber sleeves" in place. Funny both times I've thought "Gee, the hole in the mounting straps are big compared to the bolt" and "Why didn't they use a shorter bolt?" when tightening up the one that goes into the smugglers box cavity. I am reasonably confident that both cars weren't fitted with the sleeves from the factory as I note both had this strip of brown nylon textile (about 1/2 x 2 inches) between the floor and the floor mount steel strap. I've noticed this in photos of other cars too. I think a rubber grommet would work fine as a substitute for the "rubber sleeve" and that's what I'll use when I do my next car, if that ever happens! Looks like a grommet will be the fix then, never had any textile strips on the mounting brackets but going by the state of the Evaporator housing it had been in and out a few times. https://www.flickr.com/photos/152710446@N03/shares/BhRU96 4 hours ago, OZ930 said: No rubber sleeve on mine either, but mine was packed in boxes when I bought it. You should have come down for the North meets South. Looks like you had a great time, would have joined in but my car was (and still is ) in bits......next time maybe. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OZ930 Posted 19November, 2017 Report Share Posted 19November, 2017 9 minutes ago, Caledonian said: Looks like a grommet will be the fix then, never had any textile strips on the mounting brackets but going by the state of the Evaporator housing it had been in and out a few times. https://www.flickr.com/photos/152710446@N03/shares/BhRU96 Looks like you had a great time, would have joined in but my car was (and still is ) in bits......next time maybe. That housing looks like you need to find a replacement. Good time ?? Nah, it was terrible. Twisty road, laughs, stirring, fast cars, food and drinks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Caledonian Posted 19November, 2017 Author Report Share Posted 19November, 2017 It is not as bad as it looks in the pics but getting that sealer off was a real pain! Now entering week 4 with my girl off the road, if no A/C hoses this week she coming down off the stands........ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OZ930 Posted 19November, 2017 Report Share Posted 19November, 2017 7 hours ago, Caledonian said: It is not as bad as it looks in the pics but getting that sealer off was a real pain! Now entering week 4 with my girl off the road, if no A/C hoses this week she coming down off the stands........ Ok, good. Only 4 weeks. It took me 8 months......but I did a lot of "while you're in there jobs". Another idea, that you may want to consider, is a switch to turn the compressor off and still use the evaporator fan to circulate more air in the cabin. I have switch with an internal light (from Tandy) that tells me the power is on and when the compressor is cycling. No cutting of factory wiring required. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter M Posted 19November, 2017 Report Share Posted 19November, 2017 Plus one for the compressor switch. I bought a Narva brand rocker switch with blue indicator light to show when the AC is on. Great improvement for ventilation. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Caledonian Posted 20November, 2017 Author Report Share Posted 20November, 2017 9 hours ago, OZ930 said: Ok, good. Only 4 weeks. It took me 8 months......but I did a lot of "while you're in there jobs". Another idea, that you may want to consider, is a switch to turn the compressor off and still use the evaporator fan to circulate more air in the cabin. I have switch with an internal light (from Tandy) that tells me the power is on and when the compressor is cycling. No cutting of factory wiring required. 8 months !!! I feel like I'm rushing things now 6 hours ago, Peter M said: Plus one for the compressor switch. I bought a Narva brand rocker switch with blue indicator light to show when the AC is on. Great improvement for ventilation. That is a good idea x2 ... added to the list. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OZ930 Posted 20November, 2017 Report Share Posted 20November, 2017 18 hours ago, Caledonian said: 8 months !!! I feel like I'm rushing things now That is a good idea x2 ... added to the list. Yeah, 8 months, but I did do a lot of little mods and "while you are in there" jobs. As I said my AC was in boxes so I had to sort out what I had and what I needed, then work out what the Retro Air kit replaced, where it had to go and undo a lot of PO alterations. Plus my OCD need for "neat and tidy" took a while. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Caledonian Posted 21November, 2017 Author Report Share Posted 21November, 2017 Picked up the condensers and evaporator from being cleaned and checked, and the good news is that they are fine. Hopefully all the planets will align and I should get the hoses by the end of the week. Still need to source a new TX valve, still had the original one fitted going by where it was made. This means it was not changed when the 135a conversation was done, which by all accounts was not uncommon. https://www.flickr.com/photos/152710446@N03/shares/R2P987 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Caledonian Posted 26November, 2017 Author Report Share Posted 26November, 2017 The supplier I was hoping to get the TX valve from could not match it up, so I've got another couple to try yet. No hoses yet, but started installing the condensers, front one is done just need to finish of the rear (paint bracket & make rubber insolater). https://www.flickr.com/gp/152710446@N03/89j50o Took Peters advice and spliced in a fuse to the existing wiring on the front condenser fan. https://www.flickr.com/gp/152710446@N03/04v6C6 Made a new floor board as the old one was rotted out, just some 9mm plywood from Bunnings ( Well known Porsche parts supplier) just traced around the original guessed the bits that were missing, which meant some hand finishing it that areas was required. While I'm sure the water leak is now fixed, I'll still probably seal the wood before I paint it. If anyone can shed some light on how the board mounts at the top, in would be appreciated. https://www.flickr.com/photos/152710446@N03/shares/fm2228 To be continued..... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter M Posted 26November, 2017 Report Share Posted 26November, 2017 8 hours ago, Caledonian said: The supplier I was hoping to get the TX valve from could not match it up........ If anyone can shed some light on how the board mounts at the top, in would be appreciated. Good work Mike! Why do you need to replace the TX valve? (sorry if you have posted this answer earlier!) With the top mounting of the boards, there should be a steel strip that is mounted on the car body that pokes through the slot in the timber board. Sometimes the steel strip gets bent out of the way and simply just needs to realigned to match up with the slot again. How's the board fastened to the steel strip? The steel strip has a transverse slot in its end that should stand clear of the timber board and the carpet mat when everything is in place. To hold it all together, the 3 inch length of flexible pvc strip that is riveted to the carpet (that you always wondered about!) is then inserted through the slot in the end of the steel strip, locking it altogether. Sorry, but this was the best photo I could find showing the locking strips: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Caledonian Posted 27November, 2017 Author Report Share Posted 27November, 2017 13 hours ago, Peter M said: Good work Mike! Why do you need to replace the TX valve? (sorry if you have posted this answer earlier!) Thanks for the pics Peter, now I know what I'm missing. Looks like the the original passenger carpet has been replaced and the new one has not got the tags, probably why it keeps bloody sliding down! Might have to get creative with some Velcro strips? You were bang on about the metal tabs, they had been flattened. As for the TX valve, the general recommendation is that it should be replaced when fitting a new compressor. Some manafacturers warranties have the replacement of the TX valve as a condition. Its also the original one, based on the " Made in West Germany " stamp, its R12 designed ( although there are different options on if that's a thing or not). For me, I just want to try and eliminate a possible problem. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Caledonian Posted 11December, 2017 Author Report Share Posted 11December, 2017 Picked up the A/C hoses, drier and TX valve today, long story but a third party had been the hold up along with a bit of mis-communication. Still in front with the altogether but the hoses ended up costing a bit more. The hose is thinner than the original ( Which I was aware of) so I'll need to get some smaller clamps the fix the to the body and find something to pack them out where the go through the body grommets. https://www.flickr.com/photos/152710446@N03/shares/6cU3Ed I just need to get the copper sealing washers and I'm ready to start fitting it all back together, but as I only have this weekend left to work on the car, it will not be finished until January now. https://www.flickr.com/gp/152710446@N03/1s66yq To be continued....... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter M Posted 12December, 2017 Report Share Posted 12December, 2017 Maybe these that are available from Autobarn? http://www.narva.com.au/products/browse/pipecable-support-clamps For the body grommets, the Porsche ones are NLA but I found they're actually an MB item. I knew I should have noted down the MB part number when I had them out! Otherwise Sikaflex the gap as it won't be much to take up. EDIT: Actually I'm a king of grommet anoraks and did note it down. Mercedes Benz part number 186 997 07 81 at $4.50 USD each To fit 35mm chassis hole and nominal hole size of 23mm which is the usual OD for No. 8 AC hose. Since you have thin wall it's only 17mm diameter! Bugger. A bead of Sikaflex is looking good. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Caledonian Posted 13December, 2017 Author Report Share Posted 13December, 2017 On 12/12/2017 at 5:00 PM, Peter M said: Maybe these that are available from Autobarn? http://www.narva.com.au/products/browse/pipecable-support-clamps For the body grommets, the Porsche ones are NLA but I found they're actually an MB item. I knew I should have noted down the MB part number when I had them out! Otherwise Sikaflex the gap as it won't be much to take up. EDIT: Actually I'm a king of grommet anoraks and did note it down. Mercedes Benz part number 186 997 07 81 at $4.50 USD each To fit 35mm chassis hole and nominal hole size of 23mm which is the usual OD for No. 8 AC hose. Since you have thin wall it's only 17mm diameter! Bugger. A bead of Sikaflex is looking good. Thanks again Peter for sharing your knowledge and experiences, anorak tendencies or not they can be quite helpful. I actually stumbled across the P clamps at my local Auto Parts store ( the old fashioned kind), the stuff that he has is pretty amazing for the tiny shop that it is. I was in there looking for blind grommets and saw he had a good range of sizes. I think I might be able to get around getting new grommets by wrapping some closed cell foam around the grommet area, a theory at this stage as work as stalled due to work, holidays and family. Picked up some new copper flange washers this arvo, $37 for 10 was a bit of a surprise! https://www.flickr.com/gp/152710446@N03/r48s00 To be continued in 2018 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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