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turbo lag and the meaning of life


brian in buddina

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I am looking at buying the best example, I can afford, of a S2, turbo or even 968.

In regards to 944 turbo lag, from my research, keeping everything functioning & working to spec, will keep the turbo lag to within 'acceptable' limits for a late 1980 car. This would include engine sensors, vacuum lines, turbo accessories etc etc...

My questions to the 944 turbo owners:

Is this a costly maintenance issue over a NA?

Has anyone done anything more significant in modifications, to reduce the turbo lag further, to make the 944 more comparible to a more modern turbo car?

the original 26/6 turbo, from my research, would have better lower end response & therefore less turbo lag than the larger 26/8 turbo. This would be at the expense of higher boost at the top end. So, I would think, it would it be preferable to look for a 1986 turbo in lieu of a later car with the larger turbo?

Brian in B

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I think having a 944 turbo with no lag would be pointless of having a "turbo" especially a 944 turbo. the 944 turbo is a different type of car than a 944 n/a. The whole character is different. For it's time of nature, it was a very quick car. 

 

But to answer your question. 

 

86 - 88 has the k26/6 

88 turbo s has k26/8

89 + all k26/8

 

to reduce the spool as much as possible, here are some modifications. 

 

Tune - EPROM chip. I'd recommend Rogue Tuning. A-Tune keeps the factory AFM. the M-tune replaces the factory AFM for a MAF(mass air flow meter). putting a MAF on the car will reduce the spool 100-300 rpm. The tune itself (more applicable to the A-Tune) will improve throttle response and better lower end torque by adding 3D tuning maps from the factory 2D. Lots of into on website. www.roguetuning.com

 

Dial Port Wastegate. - The 944 is one of the only few cars with External Wastegates which is a huge plus. Replacing the stock single port wastegate which likes to open up early controlling boost to a dual port which likes to stay closed letting the turbo spool up quicker will bring the spool down a few hundred rpm. 

 

Free flowing exhaust. - cheapest is removing the cat. or replacing for a high flow one. or better to get a 3" exhaust. you can get quiet ones and add in a high flow cat if you still want a cat in there. 

 

 

For the record. I had a stock exhaust with no cat. and oldschool chip with no air flow meter (piggy back computer) and a dual port wastegate and i saw full boost (15psi) at 2800 rpm

 

It was a pretty quick car. 280-300 rwhp. it had a lot of midrange torque, but the small turbo runs out of steam top end. 

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Don't fry your clutch as it's a big job on a turbo! It's bad enough on a n/a.

10 hours labour is what I've read ; 18 hours "book" time. Which is nuts , even if you do it yourself.

 

Stock clutch is more then enough for 300whp :) but at this day and age. it's recommended to get it replaced anyway. 

 

I did mine while i had engine out. easier. 

otherwise, need to remove exhaust, gearbox, turbo crossover pipe. (to remove that, intake comes off too)

gear shifter and linkage and some otther things too. 

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I did mine while i had engine out. easier. 

otherwise, need to remove exhaust, gearbox, turbo crossover pipe. (to remove that, intake comes off too)

gear shifter and linkage and some otther things too. 

 May as well service cv joints and replace intake vac hoses whilst you're in there  :D Just don't cost up the labour if you're paying someone!

PS what did your clutch kit cost? It's around $USD800 for the na kit.

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 May as well service cv joints and replace intake vac hoses whilst you're in there  :D Just don't cost up the labour if you're paying someone!

PS what did your clutch kit cost? It's around $USD800 for the na kit.

 

honestly probably easier removing the engine. replace what needs to be replaced. put it back in with new fluids. 

 

$1300. I've got a Spec Stage 3+ clutch with aluminium PP. rated at 600 ft/lb torque. 

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