Opinions - Preventative Maintenance Parts / Replacement parts for a 996 Turbo

[smit2100]

I am considering freshening / livening a 13 year old 996tt.  Appreciate some commentary / any words of wisdom  on the parts list attached and questions below with a view to identifying gaps / flaws on the selected parts.

To give some context, looking at focusing on only using genuine Porsche parts to  support upgraded K16 turbo's, Sachs based performance clutch kit, exhaust with 100 cel cats,   and Bilstein pss10 coilovers

Looking at doing this in the following stages

Order 1 and 1A are to sort out a major service and some minor items found on the PPI

Order 2  are supporting parts to assist with sorting out the cars straight line speed issues in the low RPM rev range without opening up the motor

Order 3 - Is to sort out cars ability to corner and stop better and increase the  probability of destroying the front spoiler (eg stance)  (Liking the look of the Stance the Car WOKA may have already brought)

Also specific questions

Hoses, what are the typical hoses that need replacing due to standard wear and tear / blow off or  tear when extra boost is induced

Interior - In order 3, I have listed some dash parts to change up the boring straight black interior.  Longer term, to perhaps change it up, thinking change center console ( eg alumi look replacement console from Carnawal  to match door handles vs match center console with exterior paint colour and down the track look at some replacement seats (GT3 sports touring or orig 996 hardback sports seats) with hardbacks to also painted match.  Anyone go down that path, or painted the center console, replaced seats with hardbacks, pulled the hardbacks apart for painting,  have any words of wisdom,

MOST / Becker radio system (CDR23 I think) looks to be pretty useless to modify / tweak   In keeping with the stock theme, I understand the CDR23 has no aux jack to install a usb / ipod connector / simple Bluetooth kit .  Any solutions to get blue tooth via this setup  (eg what needs to be done to get say Denison / Mobridge working with the stock radio, seems pretty costly retrofit a PCM 2 Nav unit and then can use a Denison / mobridge or have Becker  install an AUX jack into the OEM unit to keep it all stock looking.  Is recoding replacement OEM radios/ PCM2 units  an issue if you have a second hand unit with codes supplied or try and

Clutch Kit.  Any one have one of these setups,     RS 964 flywheel, Sachs Race Engineering 764 pressure plate, Genuine Porsche GT3RS 4.0 liter clutch disk.  If so, appreciate some comments, eg pedal feel, how bad is the chatter / is their any chanter/ livable for a daily

Pinning / Welding Cooling pipes (currently glued) - This appears to be the IMS bogey equivalent for a 996 turbo.  Anyone done this, had their pipes leak,  or is this like the IMS issue, probably   won't be an issue whilst you own the car, but whilst in their  for piece of mind may as well do it.

 

 

996 turbo for posting.xlsx

[dan_189]

 

MOST / Becker radio system (CDR23 I think) looks to be pretty useless to modify / tweak   In keeping with the stock theme, I understand the CDR23 has no aux jack to install a usb / ipod connector / simple Bluetooth kit .  Any solutions to get blue tooth via this setup  (eg what needs to be done to get say Denison / Mobridge working with the stock radio, seems pretty costly retrofit a PCM 2 Nav unit and then can use a Denison / mobridge or have Becker  install an AUX jack into the OEM unit to keep it all stock looking.  Is recoding replacement OEM radios/ PCM2 units  an issue if you have a second hand unit with codes supplied or try and

Clutch Kit.  Any one have one of these setups,     RS 964 flywheel, Sachs Race Engineering 764 pressure plate, Genuine Porsche GT3RS 4.0 liter clutch disk.  If so, appreciate some comments, eg pedal feel, how bad is the chatter / is their any chanter/ livable for a daily

MOST/CDR23 the easiest way to keep the stock head unit and keep all the modifications reversible is to use a isimple bluetooth FM unit. Basically hard wires an FM signal into your FM radio. All you need to do is purchase the unit, the converters to change the input and output plugs into European ones and wire a + and - (both of which can be installed in reversible places. For the + tap off the fuse box with a fused wire, for the - choose a ground spot and add to that.

As for the RS 964 Solid mass/light weight flywheel, this is a very contentious point on many forums. I have one, awesome to drive feels like the car has instant power because it revs up so quickly! 

However the cons: Hard to take off because the inverse of having the engine rev up so quickly from less spinning weight is the revs drop quicker. It does chatter but only if you're in neutral.

If its not daily driven its a great mod but it comes at a cost/compromise of needing to be more on your game when driving

[smit2100]

MOST/CDR23 the easiest way to keep the stock head unit and keep all the modifications reversible is to use a isimple bluetooth FM unit. Basically hard wires an FM signal into your FM radio. All you need to do is purchase the unit, the converters to change the input and output plugs into European ones and wire a + and - (both of which can be installed in reversible places. For the + tap off the fuse box with a fused wire, for the - choose a ground spot and add to that.

As for the RS 964 Solid mass/light weight flywheel, this is a very contentious point on many forums. I have one, awesome to drive feels like the car has instant power because it revs up so quickly! 

However the cons: Hard to take off because the inverse of having the engine rev up so quickly from less spinning weight is the revs drop quicker. It does chatter but only if you're in neutral.

If its not daily driven its a great mod but it comes at a cost/compromise of needing to be more on your game when driving

Thanks for the post on the isimple.  Looks to be the cheapest, simplest, reversible solution.  I posted about the isimple ( Tranzit BLU unit ) in another thread on possible audio options, but I thought that it requires an Aux jack that CDRR23 doesn't have, (I found Becker in the US can do a mod to install one in your stock unit) .  What I was missing, was your nugget that their is no need for the aux jack as it  can be wired into the fm antenna cable 

I found the post below for a Cayenne (for references purposes for others that may come across this post)  in line with what you outlined above (not a CDR23 for a 996,, but for a  pcm 2 but same principal applies ) and gives  us newbies some more detail of the workings of the unit

http://rennlist.com/forums/porsche-cayenne-forum/882713-isimple-tranzit-blu-hf-a-decent-alternative-to-most-interface-for-bluetooth.html

Great commentary on your review of the RS964 flywheel based on actually having that setup.   I went  from dual mass to single mass setup in another mark, and yes lots of contentious posts but found similar to what you had outlined plus additional pedal effort to engage the clutch (but not like the calf workout based on some reviews). I found little extra chatter at idle on my other marks setup, but very noticeable when you are in the low rpms in a higher gear when you probably should of downshifted.   Chatter in neutral is probably a show stopper, and I may need to offset the extra performance margin on a RS 964 setup and stick to a stock based dual mass setup for stockish comfort (noise and  stock driveability).  Also after  procrastinating on which exhaust gives the best trade off of performance, stock quietness at idle vs decent and not overbearing note or droning in the cabin when you are hard on the throttle, don't want a chattering single mass fly out of sync with the pursuit of stockish noice levels on startup or when in neutral.

[1q2w3e4r]

I've got Kevin @ UMWs light weight flywheel clutch kit in my 996 which has been great, its based off a Sach's clutch with 997 GT3 RS bits though it chatters in neutral so might not be for you.  It's nothing major though and nothing like the triple plate I had in my GTR previously.  Not sure on price as I've had mine for about 5 years now but it was around $2k USD previously

Here's what it looks like

http://rennlist.com/forums/996-turbo-forum/395893-umw-lwfw-sachs-clutch-install-pics.html

Exhaust wise I've got a Europipe on my 996 which I think it is a great exhaust and a full Akra on the 997 which is a lot louder and you can hear the turbos through.  Neither drone so are good choices IMO

 

 

[smit2100]

 

Thanks for the post,

Yes its Kevin's kit, I have referenced it below.  Same kit as yours for usd 2500, but appears he was forced to changed the sprung clutch disc.

I have offered the factory RS lightweight flywheel kit for many years. I think that it's a GREAT clutch kit for the turbo. The main "knock" was that is did rattle at idle. For some folks this was an issue. I always used the GT3R double spring (Blue) sprung clutch disk. Sachs has since stopped manufacturing the blue spring disk and has replaced it with a new version. With that said, the GT3RS 4.0 is available now. This disk is improved and will REDUCE the chatter at idle.

When fitted on our turbo, the engine Rev's like no tomorrow, not as good as the GT3 but not far behind. Over the years many have commented that it feels like you "gained" 30 HP over the stock dual mass system.

Parts list: RS 964 flywheel, Sachs Race Engineering 764 pressure plate, Genuine Porsche GT3RS 4.0 liter clutch disk, Ring Gear, Pilot bearing, Guide tube, Throw out bearing, Flywheel bolts, Pressure plate bolts AND T/O bearing Fork bushings and seals. This kit is IN stock..

I am starting the phased journey of baby steps to take a stock 996tt up to performance levels circa to what you have in your 996tt.  In terms of exhaust, I narrowed it down to three suppliers with a 100cel cat setup. Have chosen a Klein 2.5" with 100 cel HJS cats which is on route from Europe

I have also decided on a COBB accessport and their OTS tune for now.   Eg Want a diagnostic tool,  (eg durametric, Kevin's/  UMW logger / flasher, or Assessport).  For me, its a no brainer, eg Cobb is a separate handheld unit  that can be permantently mounted (no laptops / tablets in cars), does everything durametric does (eg fault code finding and resetting) plus has gauge display's.  I would buy the accessport just for diagnostic features.  The fact it also comes with off the shelf cobb tunes for stock turbo's with upgraded exhaust is icing on the cake.  Eg i expect to only pay for custom tuning once when I have all boltons sorted

Need to mull over the clutch, i.e performance over noise.  eg like the idea of having a factor of safety in a clutch in case it inadevertantly gets beaten on.  Appears the current version Kevin is offering appears to be best performance bang for buck. 

When you had your clutch done, did you have the motor / tranny dropped and pin / weld your coolant lines