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ABS light on 2001 Boxster S......Help!!


BoxsterS

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Hi all

well I have only had my Boxster for just over a week or so....when I picked it up the brake wear light was on and the owner said the ABS light had recently also come on..

I'd read up on ABS lights on and thought it would be an easy fix...but no

so I had the front rotors/pads and wear indicators replaced..that solved the brake wear light leaving the ABS light...

the ABS light doesn't go off when you turn the car on...so it stays on before you move and doesn't go out...though it has gone out briefly twice...

I have checked my rear brake lights and all work so not the brake switch...

I then took it to Hartech to have the codes read...it came up with fault code 4256,Hydraulic unit faulty...rear left outlet valve voltage actual value

is evaluated internally & shows implausible value (valve circuit or driver output malfunction)

tested with ignition on...

possible fault...H7ydraulic unit faulty....replace

Please someone tell me this is not so....can it be anything else to create that fault code?

Porsche aust want $6k for a replacement which I just don't have...if a good s/h unit can be found I'm told $3k...ouch

I will shortly also need new rear brakes and new tyres all round so i'm in a pickle....

apart from selling the car...any ideas??

Thanks

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The code fault is PROBABLY right.    

But...If that is the price of a new (6K) and then a second hand unit(3K) then I would probably get a second opinion/code read out.

Then unfortunately if it confirms it.....as you said "OUCH"

I'm hoping the previous owner didn't know what the fault was :mellow:and didn't sell it to you knowing that was a problem:angry:

If the P/O mentioned the ABS light coming on, I would be a bit sus.....(But maybe I am a suspicious type).

Not sure if that comes under roadworthy certificate scrutiny.

I'm pretty sure it probably should have been an issue when the RWC was applied for by the previous owner.....

I think RWC are supposed to be current for 28 days or similar

Hopefully someone of more knowledge might chime in on that one.   Although if the light wasn't showing at the test time.........

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unfortunately I bought the car without a RWC...and should have known better...I took a chance the ABS light on would be a simple fix...

most people I talk to says the ABS hydraulic unit is rarely known to fail....my luck?

On line you see them for $150 upwards so not sure why the local cost is so high....I will have a look at the number code on the unit (Bosche)

and hope to find one at a reasonable cost....

The only thing I needed for a RWC was new tyres all round...and that damn ABS light

I was hoping one of you would say....it's not the abs hydraulic unit!!!

I was so much enjoying the car...until now

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yes mate, it is a bugger all right.   Hopefully someone else may come up with ideas...

still I think I would be a bit peed off at the PO...IF he knew, it should have reflected in the price you paid.   IMHO...

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Don't panic yet...

If you haven't already done so, I would jump onto http://986forum.com/forums/ and http://forums.pelicanparts.com/boxster-cayman-forum/ and have a search first and see what you can come up with.  If no luck then post your problem up there and hopefully you can find out some more about this because 3k and 6k sound like there might be piss being taken.

http://www.ganino.com/games/Porsche Workshop Manuals PDF/Porsche Boxster Manuals/986 Group 0a Diagnosis To 45.pdf

Page 118 of the above PDF has info and a diagram of the ABS system and 122 talks about the Hydraulic Unit so perhaps you can find some more info there too.  Start with simple things like checking fuses and voltage readings of the ABS system.  Page 132 goes into detail on that which any mechanic / auto electrician should be able to take care of.  Just because the PWIS / Durametric or code scanner is saying that there is a fault with the unit, that does not necessarily mean that the unit is faulty.  A lot of other things can cause the units sensor to output the fault code.  First diagnosis is usually to just assume the part itself is faulty which can often waste a lot of time and money for unsuspecting people.

Example: 

o2 sensory triggers a check engine light - code reader says incorrect values at o2 sensor / faulty o2 sensor - replace o2 sensor - wipe codes - check engine light is back along with the same code. hmmm what the hell?? - explore other components of exhaust system - oh there is a slight leak that the exhaust manifold which is causing an out of parameter reading at the o2 sensor - fix leak at exhaust manifold - install original o2 sensor - wipe codes - code and fault now gone -car is fine.

Work hard at it and you may learn a whole heap as well as save yourself a whole heap.  And maybe even have some fun with the car outside of driving it.

 

Good luck and keep us posted too :)

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Don't panic yet...

 

Work hard at it and you may learn a whole heap as well as save yourself a whole heap.  And maybe even have some fun with the car outside of driving it.

 

Good luck and keep us posted too :)

 true, very very true.

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Thanks everyone

I have been reading up on all the boxster vices...

after my post I went to the garage and decided to have a look...I uncovered the ABS hydraulic unit and unplugged the multiplug...

I had read that these can corrode and give issues like i was having..

I mentioned this to Adrian at Hartech and when he unplugged the unit he sprayed the brass pins with a cleaner...

but no joy and the news that I would need to buy a unit for $3k or $6k from Porsche

well after I have unplugged the unit I look at the brass pins up close...hey...they look white!

So I get a file thing and clean up all the contacts til they shine...fit it back together

start the car...abs light gives a tiny flicker but stays on..

I sigh...turn the key and start one more time...The ABS light goes OFF

I take her for a drive...and yes...no lights!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

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Awesome news :)   

The fact that the light has gone off after identifying the corroded pins and cleaning them would suggest you are at the very least on the right track.  And you haven't touched the unit itself which is excellent.

My fingers are crossed for you mate!

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A corroded 5 pin plug on my son's moto to the rectifier/regulator ended up shorting out.

I replaced the plug and part and all good. I used waterproof grease inside the plug to stop further corrosion. That's the modern way it seems.

I'd suggest replace the plug as it will only corrode again.

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Thanks all...it just shows that 1...do your research on these cars..there are lots of resources out there...Pelican parts and the forums being my first pick..

I now know most of the boxster issues...including the low voltage/electrical gremlins which it seems are often simple fix's...

Just a shame I had to solve it rather than the experts....

I had another drive this morning and the light is still off....RWC on monday with only a new set of tyres now needed...time to choose

Michelin Pilots?

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WOO HOO well done.....with the money you saved there you can definitely splash out on some good boots.

Each to their own re tyres.  Mitchy Pilots excellent choice, from what I have heard.

I always had YOKOHAMA ADVAN ADO8 on mine (2001 S) and they hung on like sh#$ to a blanket.

http://www.yokohama.com.au/Tyres/ADVAN-Neova-AD08.aspx

You will probably find whichever brand you go for, you will chew out the rears a lot quicker than the fronts.

I would go through two sets of rears to one set of fronts.   I had the geometry changed etc to compensate but that was always the go unfortunately.

Well done again and good luck on the tyre decision.

Link below worth a read also.  Although the author is talking about using them on a big banger V8  

http://www.yokohama.com.au/Tyres/ADVAN-Neova-AD08/hsv_vz-clubsport-r8_20052112.aspx

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my rear tyres inside shoulder wore making the tyres unroadworthy...they were close to the wear marks so not too bad...

I'm told it needs a alignment....anything to watch out for? is it a straight forward job for my local Tyrepower to do?

I have my rear brakes to do next,followed by a tune up/service....

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Well done. I love it when good sh!t happens. :D

I recently had the ESC light come on in the wifes territory turbo, I plugged my scan tool in and it indicated a yaw rate sensor fault. Price from FORD $800. Second hand price in OZ $500.  Ouch.  Google Bosch part number and bugger me if they dont use the same part on a Volvo model.  EBAY price from London $75.

I love it when good sh!t happens.:D

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my rear tyres inside shoulder wore making the tyres unroadworthy...they were close to the wear marks so not too bad...

I'm told it needs a alignment....anything to watch out for? is it a straight forward job for my local Tyrepower to do?

I have my rear brakes to do next,followed by a tune up/service....

Maybe ring them to ask first. They may not be able to. Pretty straight forward if they have the calcs.

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my rear tyres inside shoulder wore making the tyres unroadworthy...they were close to the wear marks so not too bad...

I'm told it needs a alignment....anything to watch out for? is it a straight forward job for my local Tyrepower to do?

I have my rear brakes to do next,followed by a tune up/service....

my Box was doing that originally when I first got it.  

When I switched the tyres and purchased them from an official Yokohama outlet.  

they did an alignment and checked the settings, but the inside rears again started to wear.  Tyre pressures were set properly.   I took it back and they then did the geometry re setting of the rears, and did a fair bit of adjustment.   Unfortunately I had the settings they did, but all my records went to the new owner of my car.

I think you may need the same done, and a normal front/rear alignment won't fix it.

depends where you end up buying your tyres from, but if they are performance type people they should be able to have a crack at adjusting up the rear end.

without advertising the company I went through on the forum, pm if you would like their details.

 

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well Tyrepower put on 4 x Hankook Ventus & I think they will suit my needs (no track work)

I also asked for front/rear alignment..

when i got it back they said it didn't need a rear alignment and when i asked about the wear..they said..that's how it's supposed to wear..

still charged my $65 instead of $75 quoted for front/rear alignment...

new tyres fitted I proceeded to pick up the RWC...

soon to Vicroads & then a good service...

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