Failed RWC because / Any Advice / Remedies

[Steve88]

Hey guys failed a RWC yesterday  on the SC due to the following factors . Im wondering if anyone knew if i can fix some of these or all of these myself . 

1. Front Brake Cables / Lines are wet ? Does this mean there is a loose fitment someone where or other ??

2. Small Oil leak . Pretty sure rear right hand side . Its been in the garage for about a week and I've found literally 2 small specs . about 40 cm apart . How can i try to clean the engine with very limited space . Ive been advised to steam it and not high pressure hose it ? Ideas ?

3. Air Con hoses have come loose and ned to be secured . Pretty sure Left Hand Side inner guard . Anyone had this issue ?

4 . Front brakes are tight and rub apparently . I drove the car for around 40 mins late night and didn't have an issue

I`ve booked it in for a Service / Inspection with a Porsche specialist on Monday and hopefully an RWC. Just didnt want to be up for thousands . These seem like small issues and would feel better ( more manly ) if i could fix these myself or at least try .

Any advice is always appreciated guys . Ive got manuals and books coming to future-proofing myself , I'm just in a rush to get the RWC so i can move on from all the paperwork .

Many thanks 

Steve

 

 

[tazzieman]

1. Can you get access to clean cables with degreaser then soapy water and get them very clean and dry. Then drive around and have another look to see where the wetness is coming from. Could be just a join ; could be old hoses.

2. Might be from the triangle of death (a ridiculous amount of faffing just to gt rid of these leaks) , a valve cover or hose. Get under and have a clean the worst with some kero and see if you can narrow it down. It's possibly to clean via the fan - squirt in degreasing solution with the car running then a hose. I haven't done this but it's been reported several times elsewhere. Oil leaks can be a bummer to track as oil drips and gets flung away from the guilty area. But common things occur commonly!

3. No. Mine's been removed , which stops all leaks.

4. If caliper pistons are a bit seized that could be the reason. Maybe the seals are buggered and leaking fluid,  which is spraying up on to the hoses? You might be up for a full front brake job. What is the car's history? Import?

Test for pad dragging with wheel jacked up , spinning the wheel should give very light drag only.. 

You can also use an infrared thermometer to compare caliper sides ; if one is dragging it will naturally be hotter after a drive (assuming you get on the brakes!). If both are dragging,  well both will be hot!

[SimonR]

As I said in my PM, this is absolutely the worst time of being a porsche owner (excepting the money shift).

Once you get through the roadworthy, you'll have more time to make decisions about what you want and need to do. My priority was to get through my roadworthy as simply and cheaply (and safely) as I could  so that I could get used to the car and then work through the rest of the issues in my own time and as money allowed. I ended up doing all the work myself, but I did have a full list of what was required to pass, as well as the confidence that the issues were minor (typical oil leaks etc.). 

Don't be too bashful on the cleaning front -- if you drive in the rain, that engine has dirty road way splashed all over the bottom half of it, just go easy if you use a pressure washer (I do, and haven't had any issues and I've done a lot of engine cleaning). It's much easier to clean up on stands with the two rear wheels removed. Expect to get filthy.

Tazzieman is spot on, I spent dramatically more time working out where my leaks were coming from than I did fixing them. I haven't had to do my brakes yet, but Tazzie's suggestions are a good place to start. 

No matter what your first chore is going to be cleaning!

 

[Stew F]

Bummer failing the roadworthy. 

1. Is there a ring of wetness around the inside of the rim?  If so it would indicate a leaking caliper or fitting.  Remove wheel and clean with brake cleaner,  Then get someone to pump the brakes while you look for fluid escaping.  Check your brake pad area for wetness as well as like Tazzie said, it could be leaking from the piston.
2. Diagnosing oil leaks is a right royal PITA.  Grab a mirror on a stick and a torch.
3. You should be able to get the proper hose saddles from any car aircon place.  They just attach with self tapping screws.  There should be holes already.
4. Check the caliper piston, but also check the pins that locate the pads.  If they have rust or other junk on them they may be holding the pads from sliding and you'll have to pull them out. Clean und light lube before refitting them.  If you remove the pads take note of the way they come out, and put them back in the same way.  The hubs should spin freely without the pads in.  If not, you probably have a tight wheel bearing. It could also just be the person who checked it being a pedantic bugger.

I bought one of those Hills 1 litre pressure sprayers some years ago to mix up truck wash which I use after washing the degreaser off. 

Good luck.

[OZ930]

Issues 1 and 4 could be the one issue, worn pads and possibly undersize discs allowing the pistons to move out too far thus leaking past the seals. Check your rear pads and discs too.   Could be a good chance for a brake upgrade.

3 will be the "saddles" that hold the barrier hoses in place.  The saddles are held in place by self tapping sctews.  While the wheel is off, to check the brakes, is a good time to do this simple job.. This sounds like the left front where the receiver-drier is mounted.

2 is a clean and chase as others have posted or you could cheat by washing the engine just prior to taking it in for it's inspection.

Cheers