JonoF Posted 5February, 2018 Report Share Posted 5February, 2018 Dear Restorers I am looking for advice on floor pan replacement, both of the body shop and DIY variety. If you had a body shop replace your whole floor pan, what did it cost roughly? Who did it? Any good recommendations for Sydney-spiders? If you DIY’d, what type of frame jig did it use to keep the shape of the car once you’d hacked out the floor? Did you make an Octo or Hexo Jig as per the plans kindly supplied by Restorations Designs? Or did you use a factory style jig like the one supplied by Stoddard (http://www.stoddard.com/t52-1815.html)? Or just welded rods and bars all over the inside the car? Further, if you DIY’d, did you plug weld with your MIG? Or use a big arse portable one sided spot welder? Any advice and recommendations appreciated. Cheers Jono Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vl gra Posted 5February, 2018 Report Share Posted 5February, 2018 Can't help you with the jig. How much of the floor pan are you actually replacing? I have top of the range Car-o-liner spot welder and even with that i wouldn't rely on single side spot welding. If you can't get to it with double side spot welding arms just mig plug weld it. Nothing wrong with mig plugging other than the extra time to grind and clean up nicely. Hope that helps. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LeeM Posted 5February, 2018 Report Share Posted 5February, 2018 I didn't do my 912 personally (can't weld), yet it didn't look to be complicated for an experienced welder/restorer. A mate did mine, so the labour cost was down Only advice I can offer is to buy the pan halves yourself, as most shops will at the very least add double their cost to pass on to you. You can buy left and right pan halves from Dansk, which are a very good reproduction that have the footboard tabs welded on (I bought one half from James at Autohaus Hamilton. Very good price and great service as usual), or you can buy front and back halves from Restoration Design, or from Rennspeed.com where I bought a front one from. Think all up I paid $900AUD delivered, and $800 labour to remove and replace with some stonechip paint. Was quoted $2500 for labour at a basic crash shop, and $3000 for the whole 'reproduction' pans (not a Porsche part which are over $9000) from a Porsche shop. My advice, ring around and get someone that knows what they're doing Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
09ELF Posted 6February, 2018 Report Share Posted 6February, 2018 Jono, Let me know if you find someone in Sydney... I need some work done, but may even attempt it myself.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bumble Posted 6February, 2018 Report Share Posted 6February, 2018 Can't help with jig stuff, but I'm doing some floor repairs on mine and just got some of this stuff https://www.vwheritage.com/porsche/catalogsearch/result/?q=raptor from the UK to do underseal/rust prevention. I got it with the application gun and primer. Arrived almost as soon as I hit the purchase button - unbelievable! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JonoF Posted 6February, 2018 Author Report Share Posted 6February, 2018 On 05/02/2018 at 7:33 PM, vl gra said: Can't help you with the jig. How much of the floor pan are you actually replacing? I have top of the range Car-o-liner spot welder and even with that i wouldn't rely on single side spot welding. If you can't get to it with double side spot welding arms just mig plug weld it. Nothing wrong with mig plugging other than the extra time to grind and clean up nicely. Hope that helps. Thanks for the advice. I have always been a fan of plug welding (other than the cleanup time required). I only asked about spot welding because an engineering mate reckons that single sided spot welder guns were getting pretty good. But the really good ones apparently cost a mint. I’ll just stick with my MIG and grinder for the moment. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JonoF Posted 6February, 2018 Author Report Share Posted 6February, 2018 On 05/02/2018 at 9:14 PM, LeeM said: I didn't do my 912 personally (can't weld), yet it didn't look to be complicated for an experienced welder/restorer. A mate did mine, so the labour cost was down Only advice I can offer is to buy the pan halves yourself, as most shops will at the very least add double their cost to pass on to you. You can buy left and right pan halves from Dansk, which are a very good reproduction that have the footboard tabs welded on (I bought one half from James at Autohaus Hamilton. Very good price and great service as usual), or you can buy front and back halves from Restoration Design, or from Rennspeed.com where I bought a front one from. Think all up I paid $900AUD delivered, and $800 labour to remove and replace with some stonechip paint. Was quoted $2500 for labour at a basic crash shop, and $3000 for the whole 'reproduction' pans (not a Porsche part which are over $9000) from a Porsche shop. My advice, ring around and get someone that knows what they're doing Thanks, Lee. I’ll definitely ordering my repo pans through James at AH. His pricing is surprisingly good as you don’t have to stuff around with postage / shipping / import tax from the US/EU. Good guy too. I think I’ll end up doing the pans myself, but $2.5K for the labour sounds pretty competitive. At that price, it’s almost not worth stuffing around myself. Decisions decisions. 15 hours ago, 09ELF said: Jono, Let me know if you find someone in Sydney... I need some work done, but may even attempt it myself.. Do you need full pans or just patches? What model? If you have space for two 911s, maybe we could have a crack at it together. 8 hours ago, bumble said: Can't help with jig stuff, but I'm doing some floor repairs on mine and just got some of this stuff https://www.vwheritage.com/porsche/catalogsearch/result/?q=raptor from the UK to do underseal/rust prevention. I got it with the application gun and primer. Arrived almost as soon as I hit the purchase button - unbelievable! That stuff looks the business. Thanks for the reco. What kinda of floor repairs are you doing? Cut and replace patches? Half pan? Full pan? Keento heaf how you are supporting the chassis during the work. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
P-Kay Posted 6February, 2018 Report Share Posted 6February, 2018 Alright, I'll bite...What have you bought now buddy?!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bumble Posted 7February, 2018 Report Share Posted 7February, 2018 Punched a hole under the passenger seat (long story!). Will hammer it flat and weld. The underseal is obviously damaged as is the sound deadening inside so this looked like the ducks guts. I don't need to support the chassis other than on normal floor jacks I'm also replacing the FG guard extensions on my 914/6 GT rally car with steel ones and wanted something to provide a good rust barrier. Will be interested to see how your project turns out... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JonoF Posted 9February, 2018 Author Report Share Posted 9February, 2018 On 07/02/2018 at 7:55 AM, P-Kay said: Alright, I'll bite...What have you bought now buddy?!! Potentially something very old and very rusty... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LeeM Posted 9February, 2018 Report Share Posted 9February, 2018 @JonoF $2500 labour was from a small shop that used to do old VW's. A Porsche shop would have been over $4000 labour plus $3000 for materials. That's just for the pan from footwell to the start of the back seat, not including battery and spare wheel areas. Good ol Porsche tax! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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