Simonk Posted 26February, 2013 Report Share Posted 26February, 2013 Hi guys I need to replace both the switches on the master cylinder and I was wondering if anyone has any tips or tricks. I've already pulled all the ducting out to get clear access. The jury seems to be out on whether or not I'll need to bleed the brakes. Is there anything I can do to avoid needing to bleed them? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StevepGT3 Posted 26February, 2013 Report Share Posted 26February, 2013 If you push the brake pedal to floor and don`t release it whilst loosening one of the bleed nipples as if you were bleeding the brakes, you shouldn`t need to bleed after replacing switches. once down you can hold it down with a piece of wood between the seat and pedal . use seat adjustment to jam it in tight Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tazzieman Posted 26February, 2013 Report Share Posted 26February, 2013 Did this recently , just be quick and you'll be fine. Stuff a rag under as a bit seeps out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StevepGT3 Posted 26February, 2013 Report Share Posted 26February, 2013 Don't forget to close bleed nipple before removing switches Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simonk Posted 4March, 2013 Author Report Share Posted 4March, 2013 Thanks guys. I've been away so haven't completed this job yet. Hopefully I can get my hands on a 22mm deep socket shortly so I can replace them. Steve, I've never bled brakes on a car (only a trailer and my mountain bike) but could you please give me the step by step process you mention above? I don't want to go blowing brake fluid out one of the caliper bleeders. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StevepGT3 Posted 4March, 2013 Report Share Posted 4March, 2013 1 remove one wheel 2 put hose on brake nipple and other end into container 3 get someone to press on brake pedal 4 undo nipple , pedal will go to floor 5 hold pedal on floor with piece of wood between seat and pedal 6 do up nipple 7 replace brake light switches 8 remove wood and pump pedal 9 clean up with plenty of water 10 have a beer Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simonk Posted 4March, 2013 Author Report Share Posted 4March, 2013 Thanks heaps Steve. I think I like Tazziemans technique better There's too many bits and pieces I don't have to do it properly. If I botch it, I've got a mechanic 500m away who can bleed the system for me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tazzieman Posted 4March, 2013 Report Share Posted 4March, 2013 Get the speeder bleeder valves from Pelican Parts , they work brilliantly! Makes it a one person job. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simonk Posted 6March, 2013 Author Report Share Posted 6March, 2013 Hi again Just wondering what you guys used to undo the switches. A standard 22mm socket isn't long enough. I've removed all the air ducts and that controller thingy that has the cables running into it. Below that there's an air intake that the "thingy" sits on which seems to be screwed on from underneath the car. I've tried a deep socket and for the switch closest to the windscreen that air intake gets in the way. The other switch has a brake hose running over the top of it and won't fit any socket on it. Maybe a 22mm spanner but there doesn't seem to be much room in there. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tazzieman Posted 6March, 2013 Report Share Posted 6March, 2013 I used an adjustable spanner from memory. It's a tight spot alright. I did remove some ducting , well I think I did. It's a pain, but all part of the "fun" of diy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Harvs11 Posted 6March, 2013 Report Share Posted 6March, 2013 Get the speeder bleeder valves from Pelican Parts , they work brilliantly! Makes it a one person job. +1 speed bleed valves are particularly useful at track days for a quick bleed and top up Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Harvs11 Posted 6March, 2013 Report Share Posted 6March, 2013 Hi again Just wondering what you guys used to undo the switches. A standard 22mm socket isn't long enough. I used an antique shifter with a stubby handle. Just buy a cheap shifter or ring spanner and cut down the handle Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simonk Posted 7March, 2013 Author Report Share Posted 7March, 2013 Ok, finally getting somewhere. Is there a torque setting for these when doing them up or just tighten until they stop? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simonk Posted 7March, 2013 Author Report Share Posted 7March, 2013 Also, if I've let air into the system, will it be evident immediately or am I going to have an oh shit moment a couple kms into my journey? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simonk Posted 7March, 2013 Author Report Share Posted 7March, 2013 Well... It all seems to be working ok. Lights come on fine. Pedal feels the same as it did previously. Hopefully I've tightened them up ok. It felt pretty tight most of the way in but as it got to the point where it really tightened, I probably gave it another quarter turn. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StevepGT3 Posted 7March, 2013 Report Share Posted 7March, 2013 Also, if I've let air into the system, will it be evident immediately or am I going to have an oh shit moment a couple kms into my journey? It would be evident, the pedal would feel soft Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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