davidtran Posted 2January Report Share Posted 2January Hello everyone! My old 911 had a leaks from fuel tank, which I had to have fixed. I have a new 911 now (1987 model). I'm paranoid about similar problem and just wanted to ask lifespan of fuel tank? Is it common for them to leak? Should I change it as preventative measure, or is that silly. I've attached photo. I'm thinking if there is slow leak, would be very difficult to tell, because fuel would evaporate and maybe damage paint etc... So just want to handle the situation. David Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
autojack Posted 2January Report Share Posted 2January Personally it's not the kind of thing I would do preemptively. If it isn't rusting now, it's not going to start unless you keep it parked outdoors under a tarp. I have a 1988 and the tank is fine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reedminor Posted 4January Report Share Posted 4January I dont think it needs to be changed.... To check for internal rust - run the tank down near empty and remove the sender and check the internal condition of the tank. I did this at my last service, and PCM Classic checked it for me and took pictures for my peace of mind. If ok - dont worry. If rust is present - I would replace tank - doing anything else is false economy. A very reputable independent repair shop I have dealt with - if they get a G series running rough, or poorly, the first thing they do is check the fuel tank. 8 or 9 times out of 10 - a rusting fuel tank is the root cause of the problem. micknine01 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sus911 Posted 5January Report Share Posted 5January I would say coating the inside of the tank with something like Caswells or KBS Gold Tank sealer, given that it is in good condition, is a viable preemptive measure. Rust will generally form around the mid-seam, inside or out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike D'Silva Posted 8January Report Share Posted 8January On 06/01/2024 at 08:15, sus911 said: I would say coating the inside of the tank with something like Caswells or KBS Gold Tank sealer, given that it is in good condition, is a viable preemptive measure. Rust will generally form around the mid-seam, inside or out. Apparently this isnt a good idea since the swirl pot in the tank is made of plastic and the coating doesnt stick well to it, so will flake and break down and clog. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sus911 Posted 8January Report Share Posted 8January 10 hours ago, Mike D'Silva said: Apparently this isnt a good idea since the swirl pot in the tank is made of plastic and the coating doesnt stick well to it, so will flake and break down and clog. Yes Mike, quite a bit has been discussed over concerns about this possible issue. The swirl pot is actually bakelite. I agonized over this and decided to contact the owner of KBS Coatings who assured me there wouldn't be any problem. That was 5 years ago and not a hint of a problem for me so far. Mike D'Silva 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davidtran Posted 3February Author Report Share Posted 3February Thanks everyone. I think I'll just leave as is for now and if issue arises maybe change the tank. I think hardest part would be matchings the textures paint and colour of tank with new tank. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter M Posted 4February Report Share Posted 4February In my limited experience of 2 G-model tanks they seem to rust around the outer seal due to the foam seal keeping moisture. I'm rather partial to a tidy tank and a clean frunk so would recommend removal and checking as they are easy to get out. It also makes wax injecting the surrounding hollow chassis sections easier too. A bit of acid damage to the battery tray? Easier to repair and blend in the paint when the tanks out. Since your tank looks pretty good I expect you will just need to do spot repairs to the seam and the area around the drain plug which always gets a bit bald from either petrol seepage or scraping. For these small area repairs I find seam sealer works a treat and can be made to replicate the surrounding stoneguard finish using a stiff shorthaired brush and a bit of fingering when it first skins over. Whilst some talk about getting stoneguard tinted to match the original Wurth schutz, that's been too difficult for me so I just repaint the whole tank after the repairs are completed and spot primed with a small disposable long nap roller. The original colours have varied from light grey to olive so I just get a small tin of satin enamel tinted to suit from Bunnings. 911 and sus911 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike D'Silva Posted 4February Report Share Posted 4February gee that looks clean! Peter M 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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