au-yt Posted 27March, 2014 Report Share Posted 27March, 2014 Hi Guys I live in Sydney south and am looking for a recomendation for a panel shop who can tig weld the piece and repaint the door post. its the Left hand side the right hand side has been done and looks very professional but I believe it was done in Perth somewhere, no go to me, but I am sure Im not alone with this little annoying problem! any thoughts.. Cheers Graeme Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Caledonian Posted 27March, 2014 Report Share Posted 27March, 2014 Hi Graeme It might be worth talking to the local Porsche dealer as this is not an uncommon issue, and they should know who has experience in doing this type of repair. As you are probably aware the fault is with the actual check strap as this is what causes the consequential damage to the door pillar. To do the repair properly and safely, is more involved than it may look, the door and some of the inner trims require removing/dismantling. As well as disconnecting the various electrical components ECU's etc. also any wiring and or drain hose (if you have a sunroof) that can be routed through the door pillar (know in body terms as the A-Post). The check strap will need replaced also and if they have not modified them it need some metal removed to ensure it does not put strain on the A- Post mount. I would estimate (depending on the shop) you would be quoted around $400-$600 for the labour and the parts should be $60-$100 allowing for clips etc. there may also be a need for the engine/system warning light to be re-set. This is just a rough estimate based on your description (pic would be good), but it might help prepare you for the worst. Hope this helps Cheers Mike Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
au-yt Posted 2April, 2014 Author Report Share Posted 2April, 2014 Hi Mike Thank you for the detailed info, as there is always more to this task than meets the eye. I am planning a series of tasks and the strap is one, I also need to get some door bruises removed and the guy I use has given me the task of removing the door trims first so that's a start, Actually I was prepared for more than that amount as I have been around classic cars for years. The detail about the SR drain is important and also I am aware there needs to be attention paid the back side of the door pillar afterwards for corrosion prevention. I know that the drivers door has been done as the paint measured at twice the rest of the car. Many thanks again Graeme Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
T-Man Posted 2April, 2014 Report Share Posted 2April, 2014 Exclusive Bodyworks. Have done some great work on a mates 993. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
au-yt Posted 6April, 2014 Author Report Share Posted 6April, 2014 Hi Theo Thank you, I may also check out the Guys at ZAG. Cheers Graeme Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter M Posted 6April, 2014 Report Share Posted 6April, 2014 Mike,Are you saying that the spot welds holding the bracket break because of the excessively stiff detent steps rather than the little cushioning that occurs at the full open stop?(I've bought new straps for mine because there is no "checking" occurring until the full open stop on my current ones and am worried I'm going to bang the doors into other cars, garage wall etc. Also with doors able to swing freely, it must be quite a force to contain at the full open position.)ThanksPeter Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pocketscience Posted 9April, 2014 Report Share Posted 9April, 2014 Autohaus had my drivers side done as part of my purchase last year - great job. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
au-yt Posted 10April, 2014 Author Report Share Posted 10April, 2014 Last sunday at the German motor fest. I had a look at other 993's and found that some have been repaired others not. I cannot help but wonder if the door retraints on a late 993 are different and this causes the problem? Regards Graeme Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stardust Posted 10April, 2014 Report Share Posted 10April, 2014 No different to my 78. My door strap let go when I was coming out of the pits at eastern Creek (obviously I didn't shut the door properly) when my door swung out. So here I was exiting onto the fastest corner of the track, strapped in by a 5 point, and my door waggling in the wind with a broken strap frustratingly out of reach of my fingertips. Took the plunge and did a sharp right hander across turn one and grabbed the door slamming it shut. The busted strap pierced the door panel. Faaark. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Caledonian Posted 11April, 2014 Report Share Posted 11April, 2014 Mike, Are you saying that the spot welds holding the bracket break because of the excessively stiff detent steps rather than the little cushioning that occurs at the full open stop? Sorry, just saw this. i would probably say it would be a combination of the two, as the indents can cause the A-post(door pillar) bracket to flex a little and the lack of dampening (worn check strap) would do the same, which is the more guilty is open to debate. I've read that some people flatten or grind down the indents on the replacement check straps to reduce the harshness, there is also the a door reinforcement kit for the earlier 911's (our models )as the door shell was the area that tended to fail. Over time this flexing results in metal fatigue around the a-post bracket and or door shell mounting area. There can be other contributing factors, such as people using the door as a prop to get in and out of the car. Also the door is quite heavy so the force put on the a-post bracket when the door is opened in a manner that causes the check strap to "bottom out" would be significant. This issue is not unique to Porsche, I've seen in occur in many different cars. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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