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Restored.my SC steering wheel


Stew F

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This arvo I picked up my steering wheel. I had been tossing up between getting a Momo Prototipo (sp.) or getting my original 3 spoke wheel recovered. I chose the latter because I didn't like the white stitching.

Well it looks a treat. I got the guy to put an extra bit of foam in so it's nicer to hold. He only charged me $150 and did a fantastic job of it.

I put all the little bits back on tonight and will put it back on the car on the weekend. When I've finished the job I'll post a picture of it. Glad I went this way. If anyone wants the guy's number let me know. All he does is leather wheels and gear knobs.

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pics.gif

Pics please

Yeah yeah. I'll do a full how to tomorrow. But in the meantime I'm off to put it back on and take the required photographic evidence. And replace a brake switch.

auf wiedersehen

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Well, here it is folks.  I have broken the job down into simple steps, and rated each step out of 10.  1 being you have no skill whatsoever, & 10 being you are a Porsche factory trained technician.

 

We got fed up with driving the car with the leather of the wheel coming apart.  It was in reasonable condition, other than the stitching was coming apart.   I needed to sort the brake lights out (in another thread) so was waiting on parts, and with the wife recovering from surgery the 911 wasn't being used much. So I decided to get it done now. 

 

Step 1. Remove the horn pad.  No need to disconnect the battery. Put your fingers between the top of the horn pad and the wheel side spokes and gently pry it straight off.  I did it one spoke at a time.   Leaving the battery connected allows you to listen to some tunes while you're working.  Level of difficulty - 3 (max, or get someone with a 3+ ability to do it)

 

Step 2. Carefully remove the horn wire do-dad and tape it up. Make sure you don't break the spade connector on the horn pad, otherwise, well, you're screwed! Tape the connector to prevent it shorting out on anything, like your socket wrench.  Level of difficulty - 1

 

Step 3. Using a 27mm (or 1 1/16") socket, 4" extension, and breaker bar, undo the nut.  Don't wrench against the steering lock.  Unlock it and hold the wheel with 1 hand and push the bar (down away from the windscreen preferably) with the other.  Level of difficulty - 3.  I read somewhere on the net where someone busted their windscreen doing this.  He was obviously a skill level 1.

 

Step 4. Make sure your front wheels are pointing straight ahead, then remove the wheel.  It should just pull off.  Mine did.  If not, give it a little jiggle.  Don't try to remove the washer - it's captive. Level of difficulty - 2

 

All this in less time than it took to play Fanfare For The Common Man

 

Step 5. Grab a beer, or a glass of your favourite red and take the wheel to the garage.  gather some clean rags, degreaser, a Phillips head screwdriver & an 8mm (I think it was) spanner.  Level of difficulty - 1, Unless the wife is around, then it could be a 10.  The beer or wine bit.

 

Step 6. Remove the 3 Phillips head screws that secure the rear shroud. Remove the shroud & the foam disc, and clean off the old grease with degreaser on a rag.  Level of difficulty - 1

 

Step 7. Remove the 3 Phillips head screws that secure the horn slip ring.  Gently remove the slip ring assembly. Level of difficulty - 3

 

Step 8. Remove the 3 brass horn pad retainer screws.  Then clean the rest of the rest of the wheel.  Level of difficulty - 3

 

Step 9. Refill wine glass. Level of difficulty - 10 (as above)

 

Step 10. Take wheel to dude, wait for phone call, pay the money & take the wheel home.  I dropped it off on Tuesday and picked it up Thursday. Fortunately he's only 5 minutes from where I'm working at the moment.  Level of difficulty - 1

 

Step 11. These are the important steps. Reassemble the wheel in this order. Level of difficulty - 3

  • Make sure your hands are perfectly clean
  • Repeats step 5 - to the letter
  • Put the foam disc in place and fit rear shroud.  I put a smear of grease on the hub to keep the disc from falling off.  Secure with the 3 Phillips screws.  Note: All 6 screws are the same thread diameter and length, so don't stress that you might have got them mixed up
  • Reinstall the 3 horn pad retainers.  Be careful.  These screws are brass, and small, so don't over tighten them
  • Reinstall the slip ring assembly.  Don't forget to feed the wire with the taped up do-dad through the hole in the hub. Secure with the remaining 3 Phillips head screws. Apply a light smear of grease to the brass slip ring and the indicator cancelling finger ramp.  On the outside diameter, not the edges, if you get my drift

Step 12. Take wheel to car.  Switch ignition on and select your favourite track. Confirm that front wheels are pointing straight ahead. Repeat part a of Step 5.  You should be like a factory trained technician with step 5 by now.  Make sure your hands are clean again.  Don't want to get any residual grease on the interior. Level of difficulty - 3

 

Step 12A. Remove the previously stored nut from the "nut storage device" and install the wheel on the spline, making sure the bottom spoke is in the 6 o"clock position. Level of difficulty - 1

 

Step 14. Replace the nut and tighten.  Not against the steering lock (you can't anyway, because you're listening to Emerson, Lake & Palmer).  I didn't use a torque wrench - I just tightened it until it was snug tight plus a bit.  Level of difficulty - 5 - the nut is a bugger to get on because it's so far down inside the wheel.  You could put a blob of Blu Tack in your socket to hold it there I suppose.  I didn't have any.

 

Step 15. Remove the insulation tape on the horn wire do-dad and clip it on to the horn pad.  Then simply place the horn pad over the retainers, making sure the retainers are all lined up, push it so the 2 parts meet, and give it a gentle thump over each retainer.  test the horn works.  Simples.  Level of difficulty - 5

 

Step 16. Repeat part 1 of Step 5, sit back, and admire your skill.  Level of difficulty - 5

 

Step 17. If you have followed Steps 5, 9, 11, 12 & 16 properly take car for a drive - tomorrow, coz you're probably hammered!  If all went well the steering wheel should be sitting with the bottom spoke at 6 o"clock while driving straight.  If not, it's an easy fix. Just means taking the horn pad and nut off again.  I suppose you could always align the wheel "on the fly" then fit the nut.  Level of difficulty - 1

 

In all seriousness, without rushing, it took me about 1/2 hour to remove and strip the wheel, clean it, and take the relevant photos.  Then it took me about the same to take more photos, reassemble the wheel, and put it back on the car.  It's a really simple.  Level of Difficulty - 3 overall

 

I really like the feel of the re-covered wheel.  It's slightly thicker than original because of the 1mm padding and the slightly thicker leather, but it feels great in the hands.  I drove it to footy yesterday.  A round trip of some 50 km.  I felt it was nicer to drive, probably because I had this feeling of security that the cover wasn't going to come off in my hands.

 

Pictures included for your viewing pleasure. 

 

"http://s1272.photobucket.com/user/fuchsfamilyphotos/embed/slideshow/Porsche%20911SC%20Steering%20Wheel"

 

Stew.

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Great post and music too although possibly a bit too upbeat for a glass of red?

 

I would have went for something like this

 

 

Now I just want to chill and figure were I'm going to get the cash to get my steering wheel recovered -_-

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I could listen to this track 42 times, good memories.

I knew you were a man of great intellect Mike, 

I loved the radio version best, your mind could float out there.

 

Mind you it doesn't take much to amuse me I haven't got "A brain as big as a planet"

 

PS I absolutely loathe the Eagles and that dirgy West Coast garbage they put out along with Ronstadt et al but out of evil always comes some good and "Journey of the Sorcerer" was their contribution.

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Is that the only texture he offers?

I'm not 100% sure on that. I suppose if he didn't have exactly what you want you could supply your own leather. Otherwise I would say he could get it in, maybe at a cost tho. I liked the texture on this one so I said go for it.

Incidentally, leather generally has no texture as such. It's passed between heated rollers to emboss the leather. I know that from when I was a boy. My pop worked in a wool and hide factory and I remember seeing them doing it. It basically starts out no different to our skin. And the little holes you see in it are the hair folicles.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Update on my steering wheel resto.

Been on for a couple of weeks now. I drove the beast to work today. 1 hour drive (each way). The leather seems to have tightened up a bit and the wheel is now a bit firmer in the hands. Really good result.

The frau likes it as well, and that's the main thing. Isn't it.

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