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1990 964 C2 Brisbane - Upgrades and Engine Drop


Mike D'Silva

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Finally got around to getting a 964. 

 

Those that have gotten to know me, know I am totally indecisive and like to try different cars out without encoraching on other people's time.. this means I end up buying them to try and if I don't like it, I move it on.. however I do try to get a pretty good idea on what I like by reading lots of other peoples opinions and gauging their satisfaction too..

 

Anyhow, I picked up this 1990 964 from NSW a couple months ago...

It's not perfect.. and has some cosmetic issues which I intend to attack last. 

I didn't get a PPI done.. in the past, they have missed things that I can see for myself so I thought I'd back myself and have a go anyway.

 

I drove the car back from NSW.. it didn't miss a beat!

IMAG0822_zpswnjacfyv.jpg

I flew in after work and picked up the car in the dark.... !!! 

Drove a few hours to get to Taree...it always takes longer than I think it should...

Anyhow, it felt REALLY soft and I figured start at the obvious and check tyre pressures..

Here I am pulled over at the only servo I could find open...

IMAG0823_zpsahpr9luf.jpg

They were all over the place but I soon had 36psi in each corner... according to the shop gauge anyway.. 

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Sits nice and high at the front doesn't it!

Part of the history I got with the car, was a full service and aircon fix by Autohaus about 5000kms ago...

They noted that the front struts were getting a bit soft.. which was fine by me since I had some ideas on what I wanted to do.

Pelican Parts is simply and awesome website.. and makes it easy to empty the credit card...

Next day was the final leg back to Brisbane.. forecast was for rain, but luckily it didn't happen.

 

Pulled over for a toilet break and had to take a photo... 

IMAG0832_zpskccgzdfa.jpg

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Here is a photo i took while driving.. I mean, while sitting stationary with the car in park..

IMAG0833_zpsrzvh8wt6.jpg

At this stage, I am getting used to the different sounds and smells...

The car runs great.. I find that the tiptronic is different to my Cayman S...

It doesn't kick down like the Cayman did and it ALWAYS starts the car off in 2nd gear when in auto mode (more on this later as Peter M taught me!)

I notice that the engine is fairly quiet, and the exhaust note is really only heard when revving it above 4000... 

It feels like a very cvilised grand tourer at this stage... 

 

The seats are WAY SOFT... I cannot help but think they have collapsed and both seats are the same... it's not like the drivers is soft and the passenger is firmer... (more on this later too).

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So every 911 has oil leaks.. 

back at work, and the guys in the workshop are teasing me for buying a VW Beetle again,.. no problem.. up on the hoist to have a look...

Does anyone know exactly what this hose union is?

IMAG0839_zpscctefdpv.jpg

 

This seems pretty OK

IMAG0841_zpsyl4wcn7t.jpg

 

Also not too bad - maybe there is no oil left?

IMAG0843_zpsx0v6vbgu.jpg

 

IMAG0844_zpswflxwfcs.jpg

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I suspected the sump plug as a source of a leak.. everyone else told me it's probably running from the return tubes or from somewhere else.. but I could swear it was the sump plug.. Doesn't do it when it is cold.. only hot... I ended up setting up the go pro on a time lapse setting.. Here is the 16 second video...

http://youtu.be/8mKAWvJM40Q


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So... I've never changed a cv boot before.. I didn't take any photos but next time I do this, I think I will need to wear a full Hazmat suit to protect me from all the grease.

 

Getting the allen head bolts off the drive shaft was a fairly easy accomplishment. Put corner on jackstand, take off wheel...

use 3/8 drive ratchet with various extensions and 6mm socket bit (from memory). Handbrake on.. loosen bolt.. handbrake off.. rotate hub.. handbrake on.. wash rinse repeat...

Getting that massive nut off the drive shaft in the wheel hub though, is not so easy.. It's at this point, I realise I probably should have left the driveshaft connected to the transmission.. so back on they go.

 

I tried my supercheap rattle gun.. woudn't budge the nut.

I tried my dewalt cordless impact driver.. wouldn't budge the nut.

I tried a friends quality rattle gun.. wouldn't budge the nut.

At this point, I am wondering if it's a reverse thread!

 

I then borrowed a friends 60cm breaker bar.... no go...

I put the metre long handle from the jack on the end of the breaker bar.. STILL COULDN'T BUDGE IT! I'm really uncomfortable with this.. The idea of using stupid amounts of torque concerns me that I'm doing something wrong.. again, I've never done stuff like this before.

Then I broke the breaker bar.... never done that before!

After reading a bit and talking to the guys at work, it is suggested to either take it to a truck place to get it off, or perhaps a 3/4inch rattle gun.

Turns out supercheap were having a sale (when aren't they?) and I bought a 3/4 inch gun for a hundred or so.. blackridge_zps0cf89370.jpg

It's supposed to crank out 610nm and I have read that the nut is meant to go on at 340 odd...

 

Of course they only sell a full set of 3/4 inch sockets for $100 and I only really want one...

So I end up driving to the other side of Brisbane to Trade Tools to buy a biggest sockets I can imagine...

IMAG0870_zps3qjig27i.jpg

 

Anyway, after banging away for 30 seconds or so it comes undone... finally.

 

That was the hardest part of the job.. pulling the cv apart and cleaning and then repacking with fresh CV grease is easy and time consuming.. but luckily, they were all in good nick with no pits or major wear anywhere.

 

DIY is satisfying, yet expensive as every job seems to require another tool.......

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About time! Belated congrats!

Nice to see your valve covers aren't giving your grief.

I'm on round three with mine!

Thanks Tiaan.. 

I'm not quite sure what to do about the valve covers..they seem a little weepy and as the kms rack on, perhaps they are starting to lose their seal. 

I'm not sure what the normal upgrade to do is.. I know older cars get Turbo valve covers.. is it the same upgrade for the 964?

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Here is a couple of shots of the Momo installed...Interestingly, the slightly smaller wheel, makes it easier to see ALL  the gauges now...

Plus the suede material will be good for soaking up sweat in summer.....

(I don't think I thought this through very well)

 

 

 

DSC01843_zps6daf34be.jpg

DSC01844_zps0945f291.jpg

DSC01848_zpsa1a4d3f1.jpg

 

 

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So I contacted John Isaac at Porsche Centre Brisbane to get a run down of the factory options on my car...

 

 

 

MNR

Type

Description

650

 

DACH ELEKTRISCH VERSTELLBAR

P10

  SPORT TOURING PACKAGE

TT1

  4 SPEED TIPTRONIC DUAL FUNCTION w/SHIFT/KEY-LOCK

 

Type

Description

249

F

4-GANG AUTOMATIK-GETRIEBE

425

F

HECKSCHEIBENWISCHER

438

F

KOMFORTSITZ RECHTS ELEKTR.VERSTELLB

454

F

AUTOM. GESCHWINDIGKEITSREGULIERUNG

573

F

KLIMAANLAGE

659

F

BORDCOMPUTER

 

425 - rear window wiper

438  - comfort seats with 8 way electrical seat right

454 - cruise control

573 - aircon

659 - on board computer

 

Interestingly, everything works great... 

The guys at work regassed the aircon and it is still blowing cold...

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Last Sunday, I spend the entire day swapping in the Bilstein HD suspension and H&R purple springs.

Most of the forums seem to refer to the H&R springs as "greens', "blacks" or "reds"... Pelican don't list that option and I eventually found a site that said the purple springs are the new version of the greens.. or something like that.

 

Anyway, according to H&R, the fronts should lower 1.4 inch or so and the rear by a smidge...

 

I don't go to the gym and am generally unfit.. what I SHOULD have done, is spent 20 minutes doing stretches and stuff to warm up what little muscle mass I had. (how old do I sound now!)

 

So, I started at the back... one side at a time...

It involves...

- remove wheel

- open engine lid

- remove airbox lid and filter

- remove remainder airbox housing

- undo 13mm nuts at the top holding in the shock absorber.

 

At this point, I found that I had to do a lot by feel.. sure you look at it first, and get an idea in your mind.. then reach in there with spanner to loosen them.. turns out they weren't that tight once cracked off, I could undo them with my fingers.

 

- don't undo all the way...

- turn attention to the bottom bolt.. from memory the head is 22mm or so.. and again, the impact drivers wouldn't budge the bugger.

Out comes the new breaker bar with an extension!

This time, with lots of pressure, I here a ginormous CRACK! Sounds like it's broken but turns out it's the nut budging a couple of degrees at a time...

 

I didn't take lots of photos, and wish I did, but I was running against the clock.

Here is how the car sat before the installation:

DSC03940_zpsd9299dc5.jpg

me964_zps7fdb118b.jpg

 

And here is how it sits now...

DSC01828_zpsb5febcfa.jpg

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It's booked in with T&D for a full alignment and height adjustment this week....

 

In the meantime, another small mod was opening up the stock airbox lid...

DSC01831_zps44fc0861.jpg

This gave me a bit more growl with the induction but the exhaust was still stock...

 

From what I have read, there are 3 main components that people change and usually not all of them

- catalytic converter 

- primary muffler (massive thing behind the rear bar)

- secondary muffler behind the right wheel.

 

I ended up getting this Primary muffler bypass from the usa... ebay is my friend...

cupbypass_zps39a89613.jpg

 

Installation was easy... I was expecting it to be LOUD.. when you see the size of the muffler you take off and replace with a straight through pipe, you wonder if you need ear muffs! I called the girlfriend from the house to listen to the inaugural staring ceremony.. sh covered her ears as I started the car (it was 9pm) and ......... 

 

It sounded exactly the same.

 

yeh.. bit of a let down.. went for a drive and yes we could here a bit more but it was almost nothing.. very surprising considering how much muffler was replaced with nothing!

 

As the kms have gone on though.. it does sound different.. in fact it is very pleasing. Sounds like a classic 911 should i think.. not overly loud but a very "colourful" note.

 

This is the shiny pipe up under the rear bumper now...

DSC01837_zps70a7dab2.jpg

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Ride height is much better now Mike, it's coming together nicely! When are you coming over to do my shocks? :)

 

considering how much room there was to work on mine, I'd be a bit nervous about what would have to be removed on yours!

On mine I had to remove the complete airbox on drivers side.. and the blower motor assembly on the passenger side... in fact, on this side, it was ALL BY FEEL.. Stevie Wonder would have been a great Porsche tinkerer...

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Early on in the piece, when I jacked the car up under the case, i noticed some black fluid dripping on the floor.

At first I thought it was old water from when I washed it that had gotten caught, but tracing it back to the source, it appeared to be coming from the engine mount.. and it STUNK. Like rotting fish.

 

I didn't taste it...

 

So I soon learned that these cars have fluid filled engine mounts...

 

A bit of research led to buying some WEVO mounts.. and here they are...

DSC01835_zps5d2bfd9e.jpg

 

I actually fitted the wevo mounts before I did the suspension... and after a short drive, I could tell a big difference immediately.. there wasnt a big hunk of metal sloshing around the back of the car trying to push me off the road!

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Wow. You're wasting no time!!

The turbo valve covers are a pre 964 thing. You can get billet ones such as the garret ones:

http://www.tarett.com/items/911-products/911-engine~transmission~brakes~electrical/billet-aluminum-valve-covers-detail.htm

I replaced my lower valve covers with later Porsche aluminium ones. The magnesium ones warp. Mine actually leak along the bolts, not around the gaskets.

It it drips about two drops per drive into a tray underneath the car. So it's not really that bad.

Thanks Tiaan..

I'm not quite sure what to do about the valve covers..they seem a little weepy and as the kms rack on, perhaps they are starting to lose their seal.

I'm not sure what the normal upgrade to do is.. I know older cars get Turbo valve covers.. is it the same upgrade for the 964?

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Wow. You're wasting no time!!

The turbo valve covers are a pre 964 thing. You can get billet ones such as the garret ones:

http://www.tarett.com/items/911-products/911-engine~transmission~brakes~electrical/billet-aluminum-valve-covers-detail.htm

I replaced my lower valve covers with later Porsche aluminium ones. The magnesium ones warp. Mine actually leak along the bolts, not around the gaskets.

It it drips about two drops per drive into a tray underneath the car. So it's not really that bad.

 

Just have to put a sponge in the tray.. then when the sponge is full, wring it out into a funnel leading in to the oil tank!

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I forgot to mention: the first day I drove the car to work.. raining, saturday morning... the ABS light came on.. this was after 3 days ownership.

I thought, blimey.. here we bloody go...

Then as I try to change gears using the tipper, it wont manually change gears...

F!!!!

 

pull over... then it starts to idle erratically.. then stalls...????

 

Try to start.. turns over fine.. but wont fire.

 

Then it starts to rain.

 

So I send a text to my boss saying I've broken down....

 

While I'm waiting for someone to come get me, I'm turning the key and NOTHING HAPPENS...

It's at this point I'm wishing I still had the Cayman...

And I've become rather religious all of a sudden, asking "God" for a time machine so I can go back and NOT get on the plane..

 

Anyway, guy from work turns up with a battery jumper pack.. and lo and behold, it jump starts.

So he heads off.. i take the jump pack off.. car is running.. I go to take off.. and it stalls again.. 

WTF? Now I am thinking that the alternator has packed it in and isnt charging.. 

So I connect the jump pack, start it, and leave it connected while I drive to work.. turns out having the engine in the back and battery in the front was rather handy this time.. couldn't have done that on a normal car.

Charge battery and all seems fine.. 

2 days later.. it did it again..

Multimeter read out says its pumping out around 13.5 or 14 from memory.. so I think that's ok...

 

Quick trip to super cheap auto... buy a new battery.. 

 

no problems since...

 

It was strange how it was running fine, and even with the alternator charging, it still went flat...

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