SimonR Posted 15October, 2014 Report Share Posted 15October, 2014 Looks better already! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike D'Silva Posted 15October, 2014 Author Report Share Posted 15October, 2014 Here's a photo with the plugs on the transmission connectors... And here's a photo after an hour or so. This is about as clean as the transmission will be. Tomorrows job is to start on the motor.. I figure it's best to get as much muck off before starting to undo covers etc... I've not contemplated taking the tinware off before.. can anyone point me to a good link for step by step? Or am I over thinking it? Any tips? Mike. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter M Posted 15October, 2014 Report Share Posted 15October, 2014 Or am I over thinking it?Mike,I just love how you make up your mind and just do it!No over analysis, no procrastination, you just do it!I need to take a leaf from your book as life is simply to short to waste time.ThanksPeter Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SteveF Posted 15October, 2014 Report Share Posted 15October, 2014 Well done Mike. Loving this thread. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike D'Silva Posted 15October, 2014 Author Report Share Posted 15October, 2014 Peter, would you believe I took a week off work to have a break and attack this at the same time. I can tell you right now, if I had a bigger block, and a proper sized shed (with heating for winter, aircon for summer, TV and a fridge) I'd be having a proper right go... I'd want a small sandblasting area, a powder coating area, a hydraulic press, a paint booth, a proper vehicle lift, lots of stainless tables and shelves, a lathe, a welder... Oh that's right.. I don't know how to do any of that stuff.... Back to selling New Toyota's next week then! Seriously though, I noticed that my rocker covers are all bubbly and flaking.. pretty sure they are the original magnesium ones and I have read of people replacing them with aluminium. Lots of others also just say to replace the rubbers and retorque and goodbye leaks. Of course, this makes me think it is also a good time to get the covers sand blasted and powder coated... Any suggestions for places in bris to do this? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MaxzmusSC Posted 15October, 2014 Report Share Posted 15October, 2014 Your cred on this forum just went UP! . Nice one. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Russ Posted 15October, 2014 Report Share Posted 15October, 2014 does a 964 still have the magnesium valve covers? The common upgrade is to go to the turbo ones with reinforcing ribs on the outside (and are made of aluminum) I think with the magnesium ones they're eventually going to flex again Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter M Posted 16October, 2014 Report Share Posted 16October, 2014 Yes, still magnesium on 964's then they went to a plastic on the 993's. How about just strip the paint from the magnesium and treat occasionally with Gibb's oil?As for the oil leaks, I think it's the gaskets rather than the cover material that controls that issue. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Russ Posted 16October, 2014 Report Share Posted 16October, 2014 I think the magnesium covers change shape over time, I've seen them machined down flat and then months later take them out and they were warped again (and then I replaced them with the turbo ones) Pelican article here - http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/911_turbo_covers/911_turbo_covers.htm I bought mine here - http://www.allzim.com/store/cart.php?m=product_detail&p=720 (not sure if the 964 ones are the same though) oh, and magnesium also gets porous over time (some gearboxes for example have these black blotches on them, it's the oil seeping through the case ) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter M Posted 16October, 2014 Report Share Posted 16October, 2014 Russ,They redesigned the covers for the 964's to use a thick rubber gasket so the flatness of the cover isn't so critical anymore. I'd suggest that Mike replaces the seals and uses a bit of seal dressing and sees how it goes before going the expense of billet covers which are a fair bit more expensive on the 964's and 993's than the previous engines. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Russ Posted 16October, 2014 Report Share Posted 16October, 2014 makes sense now then! (I should've guessed they'd do some design work in 20 years) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike D'Silva Posted 16October, 2014 Author Report Share Posted 16October, 2014 Ok... Been at it all day..... Pulling everything off and degreasing them. tell me.. I want to get the magnesium covers powder coated... Is it ok to do that to them? Also should I get both sides coated or just the tops? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
withers Posted 16October, 2014 Report Share Posted 16October, 2014 Geez Mike - how tempted are you to try the Tip > Manual conversion whilst you are in there? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Caledonian Posted 16October, 2014 Report Share Posted 16October, 2014 Mike I would only do the outside (tops) as you don't want to put somthing on the inside, that may come off and get into the motor. Got a pic close up of the covers ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tit Posted 16October, 2014 Report Share Posted 16October, 2014 I think the late 964 valve covers were aluminium. I put Porsche part numbered valve covers on mine and they fit fine. The paint on my magnesium ones had flaked and the covers were warped. The oil mostly worked it's way along the bolts, though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike D'Silva Posted 16October, 2014 Author Report Share Posted 16October, 2014 oil line help please.. I think I have counted 35 gazillion oil lines and arteries on this car so far and this one needs replacing... But I'm not sure exactly which one it is on the blow up diagram... my guess is it is number 29 Here is another shot of that oil line... it's in front of the power steering pump (removed but you can see the camshaft exposed which drives the pump). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter M Posted 16October, 2014 Report Share Posted 16October, 2014 Does it connect to No.24? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike D'Silva Posted 16October, 2014 Author Report Share Posted 16October, 2014 If 24 is the big hard line that travels along the right rear wheel arch then yes... And on the other end, I think 28 is a hard line that goes to the bottom of the case on the right hand side... It's pretty grubby.. here's a pic.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike D'Silva Posted 16October, 2014 Author Report Share Posted 16October, 2014 Anyway, I'll call porsche tomorrow.. In the meantime, I spent this morning and early afternoon, taking off the engine tins, rocker covers and degreasing everything. The powder coater reckons it all had to be degreased so I spent a lot of extra time doing that too... Here's the tins washed, dried and also had a light hit with the soda blaster to take off the bits of grime. Valve covers Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike D'Silva Posted 16October, 2014 Author Report Share Posted 16October, 2014 Tonight, I had a crack at doing the valves... Did some reading, watched a couple of youtube vids.. and I think I got it all good. I ended up using the little feeler gauge tool from Pelican to do the adjustment. I've read about some of those cool little tools that rotate the screw 36 degrees to use one tenth of the pitch of the screw, which is 1mm. (valve clearance should be 0.1mm ) But the slight drag of the feeler gauge felt OK to me. I've only done this a couple of times before on old cars or motorcycles, so I am hoping that my internal calibration of what constitutes the correct amount of drag, will be correct. They were all just a fraction loose.. with 2 being a bit more loose than the others, but nothing was horrendously out. I'm not expecting to gain any performance, but I'm glad it's done. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StevepGT3 Posted 16October, 2014 Report Share Posted 16October, 2014 You must have 40 hour days up there Mike Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike D'Silva Posted 16October, 2014 Author Report Share Posted 16October, 2014 Steve, I wish I did. I took the week off work to do this. I figure the money I would have spent in labour if possibly close to what it's cost me in leave. I don't get the covers back till tomorrow afternoon, which means I cannot continue to clean the engine itself till then. There is a very slim chance I could get this back in the car by Sunday... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike D'Silva Posted 17October, 2014 Author Report Share Posted 17October, 2014 OK.. no chance of getting it done by Sunday.. pretty sure I wrecked the new power steering pump seal by not installing it properly... and considering how hard it is to replace it when it's on the car, not worth rushing through.. Also a new oil hose won't be here till Monday.. yay... However I'm happy that I am almost certain it's the MAIN culprit for the leaks onto the right heat exchanger. Diagnosing oil leaks is a bit hit and miss... when the car was hot, there would be smoke coming off the heat exchanger and in my case, it could have been 1 or ALL of three fluids. 1- engine oil from hose 2- powersteering fluid 3- engine oil from leaky power steering pump. When I removed the pump housing to remove the engine tin, it was pretty grubby in there.. but it didn't seem obvious that the seals were leaking. In fact I think my leaky powersteering house was dripping in the engine bay, running along rubbers to the front, then finding its way in the p.steering belt housing. Funnily enough, that housing is not fully sealed. If I address all three, then hopeully it should be fixed. This morning I had a crack at cleaning the engine bay. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike D'Silva Posted 17October, 2014 Author Report Share Posted 17October, 2014 It looks a LOT cleaner in the photo... I removed all the heat insulation and vacuumed out all the foam bits and pieces.. however I don't know what to use to remove the bits of glue still stuck there... this isn't a full resto mod and I'm getting bored with all this hard labour.. so as long as it is clean and dry I will be happy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike D'Silva Posted 17October, 2014 Author Report Share Posted 17October, 2014 Under the car is just a horrible old mess.... There is no fast way to do this with the car in the garage.. I really need to take it to work and spend a day in the wash pit attacking it. When the engine is back in and the car is running, I'll drive it in (without bumper) and jack it up and remove the wheels... Then I can spray all sorts of chemicals and use the pressure hose... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.