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G series indicator switch fix


Stew F

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I've had this small issue with my indicator switch that actually started happening on the PFA Tasmania Tour last year. When the indicators cancel the high beam comes on. I spoke to shady speedway about it recently and he said it should be a fairly easy fix. Apparently the contacts just need a bit of tweaking.

So armed with my trusty tool kit I decided to give it a crack. 

1. Disconnect the battery, unless you're a fan of the horn going off and scaring the shit out of you.

2. Remove horn pad and disconnect the horn wire. I haves a3 spoke wheel, so removal is by pulling outward at the end of the spokes on the horn pad.

3. Remove thy steering wheel. 1 1/16" socket and extension required. Make sure that your wheels are pointing straight ahead. Remove said steering.wheel.

4. Next you need to remove the horn ring contact on the shroud. 2 small screws. There are thin washers under the screw heads so don't lose them.

5. Next, remove the r screws that secure the2 halves of the shroud to the column. Note that the 2 shroud halves are the same. 

6. There is a small screw on each side of the shroud just behind the indicator and wiper stalks. Remove them. They is very small, so don't drop them. 

7. Remove the 2 screws that hold the indicator switch to the column. If your switch has a cable tie on6the white plastic bit of the switch cut it off now. It will make it a lot easier to get the switch out of the bracket.

8. Now you can remove the switch completely if that is your bag. You'll have to disconnect it from the light switch. I didn't, but you can if it makes it easier for you. To remove the switch push it towards the dash, then tilt the metal part towards the column and the plastic bit towards the radio and jiggle it out. Note. If you have a radio delete you will need to fit a radio to remove the switch, else there is nothing to tilt the plastic bit towards.

9. With switch removed from the bracket investigate the switch thoroughly to identify the problem. What I found was that the plate that gets pushed by the hilo lever had a slight bend in it. This was causing the hi beam contacts to make contact when they shouldn't make contact. I carefully removed this little metal plate and straightened it. The bend was so slight I noticed it by chance. Be really careful removing the plate. On the pivot end it sits in a plastic receptacle and the other end, with the brown plastic bit on it, slides in a small guide. This brown bit pushes the correct pair of contacts together at hi and lo beam settings. Be extra careful when reinstalling the plate. Make sure that the brown plastic bit is in the guide and through the contacts, and then push the pivot end in until the small bump is central on it's corresponding plastic face. It's a bit of a crappy setup, but it seems to work. Test that the plate stays in place by operating the switch rapidly a few times.

However, yours may need to have the contacts bent slightly, or a combination of the two. Just be careful with the switch as it's a fragile little gizmo.

10. Replace the cable tie with a new one. I used a black one to match the rest of the interior. Then refit the switch into the bracket. Now everything is just a reversal of the strip down process.Don't forget to reattach the horn contact wire and the one on the horn pad.

11. Marvel at your handy work.

The last picture shows how the contacts should sit in low beam. The gap will close at the front and open up at the back when in hi beam. Happy dayz.

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Step 3:  What's this 1 1/16" ??<_<

Caution: 

1. hang onto the steering wheel when "cracking" the nut or you could break the steering lock

2. have the socket handle in a position where you are pulling down on the handle or you could slip and crack the windscreen

 

 

3. Remove thy steering wheel. 1 1/16" socket and extension required. Make sure that your wheels are pointing straight ahead. Remove said steering.wheel.

11. Marvel at your handy work.

 

Step 11:  where's the celebratory ale ?

Nice write up Stew :D

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Step 3:  What's this 1 1/16" ??<_<

Caution: 

1. hang onto the steering wheel when "cracking" the nut or you could break the steering lock

2. have the socket handle in a position where you are pulling down on the handle or you could slip and crack the windscreen

 

Step 11:  where's the celebratory ale ?

Nice write up Stew :D

caution 1. I unlocked the steering and held the whe with my knees.

2.Yes, good point. Very important to not crack your windscreen.

11. I've given up the demon drink, for the most part. Not had a beer or wine since February. Think I've had 4 ciders.

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caution 1. I unlocked the steering and held the whe with my knees.

 

forgot that, good thinking

11. I've given up the demon drink, for the most part. Not had a beer or wine since February. Think I've had 4 ciders.

Good on you ^_^

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I had this same problem, with the difference that the lights would spontaneously go out, meaning driving at night was a case of driving one handed while holding the indicator switch with a slight pressure to keep it on.  Dangerous.

Solved the problem by pulling the covers off as per these instructions, and cleaning up the contacts with a points file.  The arcing between the contacts caused by high power flow through the switch builds up spots just like you would get on points.  Filing the spot back fixed the issue without any bending of the arms.

i also installed the headlight relay switch that is available from pelican at the same time I swapped out the sealed beams for h4s with new bulbs.  The relay switch converts the indicator switch from a high current to a low switching current and stops the arcing and the buildup, which should prevent the issue from recurring.

i can actually drive the car at night now, and funnily enough the indicator cancel mechanism seems to be less 'clicky' and more smoothly working.

One of those 30minute jobs that makes you think 'why didn't I do this ages ago?'

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