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looking for a good reasonably priced painter


stcos85

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My car is now ready for paint. Not sure whether to use a guy i have used before to paint a few cars or should i go for someone who knows these cars.

Was going to have a go myself but having had all the floors replaced it needs to be done properly. Cant afford a concourse paint job. Car is already bare metalled.

Can anyone recommend someone in eastern suburbs of melbourne

 

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Can recommend Vito at Polo Body works in Braeside. He did my last car and have seen countless examples of his work, and he is great at what he does. A quick look around his workshop will show he knows what he is doing just from the cars you see there. He did the RWB southern cross btw

 

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Can recommend Vito at Polo Body works in Braeside. He did my last car and have seen countless examples of his work, and he is great at what he does. A quick look around his workshop will show he knows what he is doing just from the cars you see there. He did the RWB southern cross btw

 

I will give him a call as his name has popped up a few times.

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I will give him a call as his name has popped up a few times.

He has a great reputation for a reason and although his work is top class he charges a fair rate ie no Pcar/ferrari/Lambo tax on top. I sold my last car about 12 years after his respray and it still hadn't had a cut n polish. I did look after it(zymol) but he did a great job. I think we did a few extra coats of clear, maybe 5 but well worth it.

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He has a great reputation for a reason and although his work is top class he charges a fair rate ie no Pcar/ferrari/Lambo tax on top. I sold my last car about 12 years after his respray and it still hadn't had a cut n polish. I did look after it(zymol) but he did a great job. I think we did a few extra coats of clear, maybe 5 but well worth it.

You actually don't want too many coats of paint or clear as the more paint build you get away from the metal the easier it chips. Trust me I made my living as a vehicle painter for 6 years. 

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On the issue of clear coat, most (painters) prefer this these days.  When I did my  Burgundy Red (6808) '68 I wanted original solid colour in Glasurit and no clear coat.  We finally agreed that there could be a some clean mixed in the final colour coat.  It cost a little more with some buffing back but it was worth it, IMHO.

 

My 356 is still in original paint and if I ever re-paint it (no plans), I would do the same.

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That car was sponsored by PPG, so I wasn't paying for clears, hardeners, reducers, undercoat, etc. It was a harlequin colour, COB paint. I only paid for the paint(base coat). I am not an expert(that's Vito's area) but the car still looks great at 15+ years since painting, so his work stands the test of time. From my understanding a COB system has clear coats that are just microns thick, so the extra coats really wouldn't add too much depth. The car wasn't a trailer queen so any chips were earned and no big deal but it had very few when I parted with it.

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You have alot of options these days. I am the first to admit that my ways are dated. When I did my Brock Commodore in 1990 no one was doing clear over base (COB) solids, mettalics of course have always been COB that's how they have to be. I actually put down straight solid Maranello red (just enough to cover the car) and three coats of Glasurit (which was the paint we all loved in those days) clear, the last one being a double coat. The clear gave a greater shine, gave the red increased depth to look at, made it easier to polish out scratches and protected the red from UV causing fading in the same way if protects the mettalic or pearl that you lay down. When I was leaving the game in 1993 COB solids had just become popular. As far as the thickness of the clearcoat goes that is controlled by the painter. It is dependant on their style and can be adjusted to suit what you are after. I moved more slowly with the gun, but had it adjusted so that less paint came out and slightly higher pressure to ensure a thinner and more even coat. My best mate moved faster with more paint coming out of the gun and really liked his material for flow and flatten out. The difference in actually paint build between out two methods I can't even speculate on. I am sure things are very different now and infinitely more variable to what you require. In those days we didn't worry about microns and there are still a few cars at the Nats that I painted in the 1990's and they still look great. To me that is proof that the old ways weren't so bad. The paint of my old Brock car is still perfect after 26 years (of loving owners I will admit, but being driven every weekend), wish I could buy it back LOL.  I am an old man now :) 

If I was painting a solid I'd do COB for sure, for the reasons I have mentioned. The COB solid is designed for minimal build because it is designed as part of the COB system to have clear coats finishing it off, not as a stand alone solid colour. Whatever changes the principle will remain, an object will penetrate until it hits solid metal, the thicker the paint build the further the penetration and the deeper and more obvious the chip. 

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Well i have spoken to a couple of people with vastly varying indicated prices  . None have actually seen the car yet. I am not after show quality as i drive the cars every weekend. I have bare metalled it and i really fail to see how people can charge over $20k to take it from where it is. I am by far no expert but at the end of the day its a small convertible car.

I understand the car is valuable but am i being unrealistic with my thoughts on what it is likely to cost. I have had 2 cars painted recently by a one man operation and paid nowhere that amount. 

Cant post up links on here otherwise i would show the level of work i have had done with the last couple of cars

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My 1968 911 in QLD needed to be fully stripped of all old paint, a few minor dents repaired carefully with a hammer and dolly (2 days) and then re-painted in the original colour in the more expensive Glasurit paint. $13,000.  They did an outstanding job.  In VIC or NSW it seems more expensive for some reason. 

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I run my own panel shop. Given that you have done the majority of the hard work ( taking to bare metal ) I would think more around half the amount quoted for a quality job. Where it can really add up to more is if you need rust repairs. Hope that gives you a better indication. Sounds like you should stay with the panel man that you know. If he has done the right thing in the past, why hunt to go somewhere else? Porsche cars have same metal as any other car.

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My 1968 911 in QLD needed to be fully stripped of all old paint, a few minor dents repaired carefully with a hammer and dolly (2 days) and then re-painted in the original colour in the more expensive Glasurit paint. $13,000.  They did an outstanding job.  In VIC or NSW it seems more expensive for some reason. 

 Great Value Merv - Was the job good - i.e. No runs inclusions etc     Seems a great price

Who did you use?

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Was a terrific job and they had this English Porsche-Trained metal worker who would never use filler.  My kind of guy.  McCullough's Body Works Yandina.  Largish place, but they also do a lot of work for Nissan and the old car stuff is not aways big earner for such places.

 

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I will say, based on my recent experience, avoid Damage Bodyworks in Highett. While he's obviously done some decent work on a few 911's, they've made an arse of mine while painting all the front end and the 3 month old targa roof now has a noticeable white mark across it where he's obviously wiped some white dust off it with solvent. Many would say take it back, but I'm so pissed off with it that there's no way I'm letting him loose on it again.

Close up, at least 3 of the panels have grit under the colour and 2 panels have visible scratches under the basecoat however most people don't see them so perhaps it's just me now that I know they're there. Coupled with him not refitting the windscreen properly it's quite annoying.

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I run my own panel shop. Given that you have done the majority of the hard work ( taking to bare metal ) I would think more around half the amount quoted for a quality job. Where it can really add up to more is if you need rust repairs. Hope that gives you a better indication. Sounds like you should stay with the panel man that you know. If he has done the right thing in the past, why hunt to go somewhere else? Porsche cars have same metal as any other car.

that was exactly my thought. The guy I have used is good but he is a bit unreliable. I will post up a couple of shots of what he has done. He painted a 1950 chev 3100 truck for me for $2500 but it was basically nearly all new panels and then a Datsun 240k in silver for about $5000 and that needed bodywork. I suppose time will tell how it lasts but its a massive difference to what I have been given estimates of

I am happy to pay him more and get a spot on job but he hasn't done one before.

I will post up a couple of shots of what he has done if I can copy them out of photo bucket as I cant seem to do it with a tablet

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