Stew F Posted 30December, 2014 Report Share Posted 30December, 2014 As I previously posted, I bought a turbo tierod kit for my SC. Does anyone in Adelaide have a thin spanner for tightening them that they are prepared to lend me? Amongst all of my tools I have nothing that will do the job. Looking at doing it within the next couple of weeks. Thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pauly Posted 30December, 2014 Report Share Posted 30December, 2014 tightening what? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shady Speedway Posted 30December, 2014 Report Share Posted 30December, 2014 I rebuilt my entire front end without said spanner? Can you photo the part you speak of? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tazzieman Posted 30December, 2014 Report Share Posted 30December, 2014 Did mine without thin spanner, so it's possible. Can always grind down a thick spanner. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stew F Posted 30December, 2014 Author Report Share Posted 30December, 2014 tightening what? Oh yeah, the end that screws into the rack. It's 32mm (actually measures 1 1/4 inches) but the spanner flats are only about 4mm wide. I could use a vice grip or a stilson, but my boss from my apprentice days would probably strike me down with lightning. Going to try the local bike shop. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Caledonian Posted 30December, 2014 Report Share Posted 30December, 2014 If you have no luck at the bicycle shop try your local Supercheap or similar for one of these http://shop.allfourx4.com.au/Fan-Clutch/-Viscous-Spanner-32mm-36mm. I have one you could pop round and borrow, if only you had chosen to live in Brisbane Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shady Speedway Posted 30December, 2014 Report Share Posted 30December, 2014 I remember now.......I didn't have said spanner, I just nipped them up. The first time I drove it, I went straight to Mark Poole for a wheel alignment, I asked them to crank them up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stew F Posted 30December, 2014 Author Report Share Posted 30December, 2014 I ducked into the local bike shop while I was out this afternoon and ordered one. Be here early next week. Supplier back to work on Monday. $15 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dusty Posted 7March, 2015 Report Share Posted 7March, 2015 Stew - can you comment on any improvements to the steering after completing this job? Were you doing it cause you're original tie rods were shot or just as an improvement? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stew F Posted 7March, 2015 Author Report Share Posted 7March, 2015 Stew - can you comment on any improvements to the steering after completing this job? Were you doing it cause you're original tie rods were shot or just as an improvement? Dusty, truth is, I haven't gotten around to doing it yet. Got the tie rods (and the Caramello Koala), and now the spanner, but haven't had the time nor the inclination to get the job done. But I bought the parts to do it based on recommendations on here and in some books as a worthy upgrade to the standard steering. I can imagine that it will provide a bit more road feel considering that I'll be getting rid of the rubber joint and replacing it with a solid joint. I'll post a DIY with photos when I do it. In fact, you've inspired me. Long weekend, so I'm going to do it today. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
webrest Posted 7March, 2015 Report Share Posted 7March, 2015 I ducked into the local bike shop while I was out this afternoon and ordered one. Be here early next week. Supplier back to work on Monday. $15 What do they use the spanner for in the bike shops? Would be handy to know. I wouldn't mind buying one for myself. I fabricated a spanner when I installed mine but I still wouldn't mind a ready made one for $15. Perhaps a little afraid to walk into one of them in case lightning strikes me down after all the hatred I have spewed over the years for the cyclists that clutter our unshareable and inappropriate "Dandenong Ranges" roads. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stew F Posted 8March, 2015 Author Report Share Posted 8March, 2015 What do they use the spanner for in the bike shops? Would be handy to know. I wouldn't mind buying one for myself. I fabricated a spanner when I installed mine but I still wouldn't mind a ready made one for $15. Perhaps a little afraid to walk into one of them in case lightning strikes me down after all the hatred I have spewed over the years for the cyclists that clutter our unshareable and inappropriate "Dandenong Ranges" roads. the spanner is a headstock spanner. It has 2 open ends each with 2 different sizes on it. Like this-a-one. http://www.ebay.com/itm/BTR-Headset-Wrench-30-32-36-40mm-4-in-1-Bike-Bicycle-Cycling-Repair-Spanner-Tool-/271405960994 However, because it has 2 sizes at each end the flats aren't very long. I could feel it spreading a bit when I whacked it with a hammer to tighten the tie rod nut up. I think a viscous fan clutch spanner could be a better choice. And you don't need to go in to a bike shop to get it, so there's an element of safety in that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dusty Posted 8March, 2015 Report Share Posted 8March, 2015 Before I got the SC, I used to build/re-build push bikes and thin spanners are mainly used for pedals and/or head sets depending on the bike. Most modern carbon fibre bikes only require a few different sizes of allen keys to almost completely disassemble so I'd imagine these thin spanners would be in short supply, even at bike shops? But you should visit a bike shop just for the experience. Everyone walks around in cleats, sweaty lycra and talks about carb loading and taking EPO. It's totally cool! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stew F Posted 8March, 2015 Author Report Share Posted 8March, 2015 After Dusty put the pressure on me to get this done I decided today was the day. So without further ado, here's the rundown of the job. After heading over to my storage unit to find my chassis stands (& my Nintendo 64) I headed home full of enthusiasm. i took a few photos along the way. So i jacked up the car and supported the front by putting the chassis stands under the front torsion bar mounts. Don't forget to chock the rear wheels, put the handbrake on & stick it in 1st gear. In the course of looking at how to jack it up, and where to put the jack, I noticed that some roughneck had used a trolley jack under the RHS jacking point and crushed one of the oil lines. I also worked out that the jack receiver hole has been bent up and the cover no longer covers the bottom of the hole. A job for another day. Here's a list of the tools I used. Cranked pointy nose pliers A couple of large bladed screwdrivers A small ball pein hammer 12mm and 17mm open end spanners 17mm socket & ratchet 32mm thin spanner (bike headstock spanner or similar) C spanner (or a pin punch) O ring pick Ball joint separator (or a pickle fork) A torch A Tooheys Extra Dry So after removing the wheels I attempted to remove the split pin in the ball joint. Epic fail #1. It was rusted solid. So I ended up just snapping off the ends and winding the nut off with no resistance. I thought I'd get away with not using the ball joint splitter. I loaned my pickle fork to some joker a while back & haven't got it back, and not he's now not in the country. So off to Autobarns to buy a new tool. I bought one that has a fork and an arm that cracks the taper by tightening a bolt. Nice tool, but it squashed the top of the thread and nut a bit. So I had to fix that up next. Problem sorted. If you use one of these type take the nut off & screw it back on upside down, then put a flat washer or something on top of the ball joint to prevent it from damaging the thread or nut. Even though you won't use them again it makes it easier to get off. Slip ball joint taper out. Here's a shot with the wheel removed in case you've never seen a 911 with the wheel off. Next, grab your trusty O ring pick and remove the spring retainers on the rack boots. Be careful not to break the inner ones because you have to reuse them. I busted one of the outer ones, but no big deal, because they're now surplus to requirements. Maybe you can sell them on Ebay. Push the boot off the tie rod and you will expose the lock nut. I had a c spanner so I was able to just undo the lock nut quite easily. Otherwise, use a drift and hammer to loosen the lock nut. But don't wind it back to much, because you need to use the back face as a datum for setting up the new ones. Then you just wind the tie rod off. The front hub & brake assembly makes it a bit fiddly, but it's easy enough. If you don't loosen the lock nut you will struggle. Don't ask me how I know that, but needless to say, the left side was a piece of cake compared to the right side. Next thing was to set up the new tie rods. Measure the old ones from the face of the nut and set the new ones to the same measurement, remembering that you need to install the thick washers that come with the new tie rods. If they end up different, split the difference and adjust each one by this amount. Once you have set their lengths measure the distance from the tie rod end lock nut to the chamfer at the inner end of the thread and record this value. Next I removed the tie rod end and the lock nut from the tie rod and put the boot on. It was about now I discovered the Caramello Koala inside one of the boots. Screw the nut & tie rod end back on, set the dimension, and tighten the nut. You should now have 2 of these bad boys assembled and ready to go. I sat back, ate my Koala and drank my TED and marveled at my handy work, thinking "I never cease to amaze myself". Next step is the screw on the new tie rod assembly and tighten it up with that bike spanner. Get it as tight as possible. And make sure you have put that thick washer on. I was a bit restricted for room on the RHS because there was an air conditioner hose in the way, I just cable tied it to the sway bar to keep it out the way. I thought all the air con gear had been removed, but it seems it may have only been the compressor that was removed. Anyhow, another job for another day. Next up, push the boot onto the rack housing and pop the spring retainer over the lip. I had to turn the boot around after doing about 3/4 of it so I could get the last bit on. You'll find that when you pushed the boot on to the rack housing you've also pushed the outer boot retainer back towards the rack. Fit the boot over this rubber gizmo then just pull it back a bit. I think it's designed to float a bit when rack moves. Here's the finished product. Lessons Learned.. 1 beer is definitely not enough for this job I suspect that it would be a lot easier if you remove the rack from the car and set it all up on the bench O ring picks hurt when you stick it into your knuckle I was missing a split pin (must have fallen out when I unpacked the goodies). Luckily I had a packet of new ones handy. However, thy were the next diameter up on the one new one I had that was supplied. After reviewing the situation I found that the holes in the ball joint thread had some serious burrs in them. So I drilled them out with a 2.5mm drill, just removing the burrs but not opening the hole out. New split pins in and away we go I'm a little concerned that I won't get enough adjustment for correct wheel alignment. Even though I measured everything accurately (and twice) I still have a bit of toe out. A wheel alignment will tell for sure. Maybe James can allay my fears with this When I was adjusting the toe on the RHS I ran out of adjustment. It was then that I realised that the tie rod had started to unscrew from the rack. So off with the boot and re tighten the tie rod If you have access to a hoist accept the offer. After crawling around on my back under the car I feel like an old man Road test. There's definitely more road feel. The steering feels lighter and a bit more flighty. Certainly more precise steering when you jiggle the wheel. It will take a bit of getting used to again I think. I'll get it wheel aligned next week and post an update. While I was at it I also lowered the front of the car a bit. 1 turn on the torsion bar bolts. Not sure how much that equates to, but it looks OK. Might need another 1/4 to 1/2 a turn. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dusty Posted 8March, 2015 Report Share Posted 8March, 2015 Great write-up - well done! More importantly though, what did you play on the N64? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
webrest Posted 8March, 2015 Report Share Posted 8March, 2015 the spanner is a headstock spanner. It has 2 open ends each with 2 different sizes on it. Like this-a-one. http://www.ebay.com/itm/BTR-Headset-Wrench-30-32-36-40mm-4-in-1-Bike-Bicycle-Cycling-Repair-Spanner-Tool-/271405960994 However, because it has 2 sizes at each end the flats aren't very long. I could feel it spreading a bit when I whacked it with a hammer to tighten the tie rod nut up. I think a viscous fan clutch spanner could be a better choice. And you don't need to go in to a bike shop to get it, so there's an element of safety in that. Thanks for the reply Stew, I will get myself one. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stew F Posted 8March, 2015 Author Report Share Posted 8March, 2015 Great write-up - well done! More importantly though, what did you play on the N64? Banjo Kazooie and HSV Adventure Racing Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stew F Posted 9March, 2015 Author Report Share Posted 9March, 2015 Forgot to mention, when i was researching the job a while back i came across this video. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7BqfBl5H-3E Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coastr Posted 9March, 2015 Report Share Posted 9March, 2015 After replacing tie rods and struts in my other car, the Porsche feels like a wooly mess,whereas it used to be the other way around. I suspect I might be doing this job myself soon. I never drink my beer during the job though - I have a sizeable scar on my finger which is a permanent reminder not to mix beer, cars and power tools. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stew F Posted 12March, 2015 Author Report Share Posted 12March, 2015 I just did a makeshift front alignment. 2 parallel string lines front to back. Got 1.5 gap difference at the front of the rim, wiich amounts to about 0.2 degrees toe in. Drives really good at the moment. Wheel alignment on Saturday. Interested to see how close I got it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dusty Posted 12March, 2015 Report Share Posted 12March, 2015 Nice work The hours I lost to golden eye and Mario kart...! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stew F Posted 13March, 2015 Author Report Share Posted 13March, 2015 Nice work The hours I lost to golden eye and Mario kart...! Mario Kart is one of the all time great games. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stew F Posted 14March, 2015 Author Report Share Posted 14March, 2015 Got the car back wheel aligned this morning. They only did the front. Rear measurements are in spec. Front is now in spec again. It drives really good. Feels a lot firmer than before. Steering seems a little more precise, but that could just be my imagination. Now that everything is more rigid the worn column bush is more evident. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JustJames Posted 14March, 2015 Report Share Posted 14March, 2015 Stew, I take it you know about the 928 steering column bush (metal insert) that is a far simpler cure than replacing the upper bearing? (For any as don't, the problem is the upper steering column bearing has a plastic bush around the inside of the bearing. Over time the plastic degrades and disappears, leaving a wobbly steering column. This is an issue for all pre-964 911's. Replacing the bearing is a painful job, often involving hitting oneself in the face with a steering wheel. The simpler option is to drive in a metal steering column bush which takes up the slack.) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JD86 Posted 14March, 2015 Report Share Posted 14March, 2015 Stew, I take it you know about the 928 steering column bush (metal insert) that is a far simpler cure than replacing the upper bearing? (For any as don't, the problem is the upper steering column bearing has a plastic bush around the inside of the bearing. Over time the plastic degrades and disappears, leaving a wobbly steering column. This is an issue for all pre-964 911's. Replacing the bearing is a painful job, often involving hitting oneself in the face with a steering wheel. The simpler option is to drive in a metal steering column bush which takes up the slack.) There is also the Mitch Leland nylon bush the can be purchased from Pelican and works in the same way as the 928 bush. Easy to install, easily removable and no risk of wear to the steering column from metal to metal contact. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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