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Tyre wall markings: yellow paint dot


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Some of you may have noticed I have had some Fuchs wheels comings and goings recently.

Anyway I had some Potenza RE003 fitted recently.  Took the P car down to the mechanic for some lowering and an alignment.  Mechanic sees yellow paint dot markings and says they should be aligned with the valve stem.

i understand the yellow paint dot marks the lightest balance point of the tyre and this should be aligned with the wheel valve stem (the heaviest point of the wheel).

I took the wheels back to the tyre go who says the yellow dot alignment is old school and not necessary now with current wheel balance equipment.  I asked if the would refit and rebalance the wheels.  Wheels guy says the rears have minimal balance weights fitted and it would be a waste of time, but he said he would redo the fronts which had more balance weights fitted (60 gm, but within spec of 80 gm).  $30 per wheel.

I picked the wheels up and the yellow paint markings were a lot closer to the valve stem and it appeared that less balance weights were required.  To their credit wheel guy waived $30 charges.

Side note: wheel guy says more balance weights are required when applied to the inside of the wheel, as compared to being placed on the outer rim.

Opinions sort: do people worry about paint dot markings when they have tyres fitted?

I am sure @Peter M and @carl888 will chime in.

 

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Doug,

I've never had cause for concern.  Lucky?  Maybe not, I think that may reflect on the good manufacturing tolerances of name brand tyres which I am always happy to pay for and they do usually mount the yellow dot within shouting distance of the valve stem.

I'd only be concerned if there are either no weights (For some reason if you say the tyres are for your trailer they often won't bother balancing without being asked which pisses me off) or if there is a excess amount of weights which would indicate a poor quality tyre, such as one with a internal vulcanised patch repair.

Red dots?  Way out of my league and learnt more today from Brian's link than I ever knew!

My only concern is the move away from lead to plated steel because they have to be bigger and eventually look unsightly! 

   

 

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Break it down.

Position vehicle over lift

Position lift blocks

Lift vehicle

Choose ratchet gun

Choose correct socket

Place socket on gun

Place socket securely over wheel nut

Remove wheel nuts

Remove wheel

Place wheel on bead breaker

Secure wheel to bead breaker

Position breaker arm the correct distance from rim............

????

 

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Break it down.

Position vehicle over lift

Position lift blocks

Lift vehicle

Choose ratchet gun

Choose correct socket

Place socket on gun

Place socket securely over wheel nut

Remove wheel nuts

Remove wheel

Place wheel on bead breaker

Secure wheel to bead breaker

Position breaker arm the correct distance from rim............

????

 

Rattle gun !!! :angry:

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  I'm sorry, what? $30 to balance a wheel? Jeebus

Break it down.

Position vehicle over lift

Position lift blocks

Lift vehicle

Choose ratchet gun

Choose correct socket

Place socket on gun

Place socket securely over wheel nut

Remove wheel nuts

Remove wheel

Place wheel on bead breaker

Secure wheel to bead breaker

Position breaker arm the correct distance from rim............

????

 

The wheels had already been removed from the car, so all they had to do we're the last 3 steps.

 

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The wheels had already been removed from the car, so all they had to do we're the last 3 steps.

 

 Good ol Ptax! That's why I always ask how much it is over the phone, and say its an old Volksy.

Some may recall I had removed the 2 front disc rotors machined for the 912 at $40each. Asked over the phone coupla weeks later about my rear rotors saying they were off of a Porsche, '$400 mate. Because we have to retool the jig'

Yeah right mate

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