neill Posted 31July, 2017 Report Share Posted 31July, 2017 I am at the pointy end of my project and I am starting to think about alignments etc. Suspension is probably one of my strongest skills when it comes to cars, but I have traditionally played with front engined, rear wheel driven cars. The Porsche layout is new to me.I haven't personally seen a thread about what others run and like so thought I might start one. If there is one, please link me to it So basically the following info - Car Model - Engine/Gearbox/Diff -Suspension Details - Wheel/Tyre sizes - Front settings - camber toe castorRear settings - camber toeComments - If you have tried several setups and remember the specs share your thoughts on all you remember. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike D'Silva Posted 31July, 2017 Report Share Posted 31July, 2017 Neil, who will you get to perform your alignment? I am looking for someone to do mine that isnt, DHM, T&D, or PCB... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
neill Posted 31July, 2017 Author Report Share Posted 31July, 2017 I have a friend with a workshop that will let me use their laser aligner, so I am planning on doing it myself. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Timm Posted 31July, 2017 Report Share Posted 31July, 2017 Neil, who will you get to perform your alignment? I am looking for someone to do mine that isnt, DHM, T&D, or PCB...Mike, I have always used Bosman Tyres in Archerfield for my alignments, and they have always been good. Though, they are now under new management...so hopefully they haven't changed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlitzKonig Posted 1August, 2017 Report Share Posted 1August, 2017 Ill have a dig through and try to find the current setup sheet that I have from DHM with half road/track setup.Would also like to try someone alternative future setup. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Teutonic Posted 1August, 2017 Report Share Posted 1August, 2017 As above I will try to dig out my most recent alignment. My setup is track focused but does get driven on the street quite a bit. Spends all its life on 050 R comps. Similarly came from a background of front engined RWD and AWD cars. Main difference with the 911 for me was more camber in the rear than in the front. I think I am around 3-3.5 deg in the rears and around 2.5 front. You really do drive these things around on the rear wheels. As per more conventional layouts the rear was settled by a little toe in. Neutral toe on the front. have also added in some suspension information. Will chase a setup sheet and confirm below. Car Model - 1974 911 Built to 964 RSR Spec (weight approx 1050kg.)Engine/Gearbox/Diff - Was 964 3.6... now 3.8 RSR, 915 gearbox. LSDWheel/Tyre sizes - 18 x 11 295 Yokohama 050 (Medium) 18 x 9 235 Yokohama 050 (soft)Suspension - MCA Coilovers, GT3 style front lower control arms, 935 spring plates, adjustable sway barsFront settings - camber 2.5 deg toe nil castor TBARear settings - camber 3.5 toe 2mm total inComments - Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stew F Posted 1August, 2017 Report Share Posted 1August, 2017 Car Model - 81 911SC CoupeEngine/Gearbox/Diff - 3.0 - 915/52 (3.88:1)Wheel/Tyre sizes - F 205/55 16 R 225/50 16Stock front struts (new inserts in March), Koni adjustable rear shocksFront settings - Factory +/- ~10% at last alignmentRear settings - Factory +/- ~10% at last alignmentComments - Had it done at the local Bridgestone Tyre Centre. Drives like it's on rails. Tracks straight, even left to right. Corners hard, goes fast...Depends a lot on what you use the car for I reckon for $40. For me, it's only spirited road use, the way the factory intended, so the factory settings are fine. Having said that, when we were at Baskerville in Tasmania, I did think it could have steered a bit better around the track. But back on the road, it was great. Maybe it was just my lack of talent.A former customer of mine developed a test bed to measure and correct the tracking of the 4 wheels. It measures where the contact point of the tyre is on the road, and what direction it's travelling relative to the other 3. You put the car onto the 4 independently floating platens, and push it about 600 mm to get the readings. At the time, I had a BMW 318is. I had it aligned in the conventional way, then we put it on his machine, measured and corrected the settings. It was the most amazing transformation I've ever experienced on any car. I'd like to do my 911, but I don't know where he is these days. The other thing that influences steering is Ackerman. Ever wondered why older wagons and LWB variants steered like dogs? Sedan steering arms on a LWB floor pan. For those that don't know what it is, google it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SimonN Posted 1August, 2017 Report Share Posted 1August, 2017 neillWelcome to the "dark arts"! You are asking some of the right questions, but need to as some more to understand what you should do. To start with, what suspension is being run - what size torsion bars, what dampers and what bushes. Then you need to specify what you are going to be using the car for. Finally, what type of tyres is being used. The other thing don't mention is ride height. Are you going standard or are you going to lower the car? If you lower the car, what will you do about bump steer?You would use a very different set up for R tyres with big torsion bars, stiff dampers and bushes to what you would use with standard suspension, normal road tyres and using it for SMT's. How much driving you are going to do also plays a part because some set ups are far more aggressive on tyres than others. Along with basic set up, you also need to consider corner weighting the car. IMO, this makes a big difference and will allow the suspension set up to work.I will look up what I am currently using but unless you have larger torsion bars, sports dampers, hard bushes and lowered, I am not sure if you should use it. You would also have issues with achieving the amount of camber I run with the front suspension without modification, either to the stub axle or with special ball joints, and we aren't talking about extreme amounts either. The standard set up doesn't allow much range and to make it worse, you usually find the left side doesn't allow as much camber as the right! IIRC, I am running -1.5 degrees which you can get on one side but need to modify the other. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
neill Posted 2August, 2017 Author Report Share Posted 2August, 2017 I was hoping to make this thread a good resource for all rather than just specific to me. I do agree on some of the questions that should be included in the responses and I will add it to the first post.The run down on my car is as follows -Car Model - 1975 911S backdated to 1973 2.8RSR looks.Engine/Gearbox/Diff - 3.0 Big port, 964 cams, fresh rebuild with custom EFI and custom exhaust using 997 Cup S muffler box, 915 gearbox, standard open centre for the moment (will change once its on the road). Still to be tuned so unsure on power.Suspension Details - 23/29mm torsion bars, Bilstein HD (yellow) shocks all round, rebel racing bushes front and rear. 1979 Carrera front sway bar, standard 1975 911S rear sway bar. Turbo Tie rods, steering rack raised 12mm.Wheel/Tyre sizes - 16x8 and 16x9.5 215/50 r16 front and 245/50 r16 Falken RT615 Front settings - ? camber ? toe ? castorRear settings - ? camber ? toeComments - Wanting it to be setup for a good comprimise between street and track, I work for two race circuits so it will see the track pretty often. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OZ930 Posted 2August, 2017 Report Share Posted 2August, 2017 Car Model - 81 911SC CoupeEngine/Gearbox/Diff - 3.0 - 915/52 (3.88:1)Wheel/Tyre sizes - F 205/55 16 R 225/50 16Stock front struts (new inserts in March), Koni adjustable rear shocksDepends a lot on what you use the car for I reckon for $40. For me, it's only spirited road use, the way the factory intended, so the factory settings are fine. Having said that, when we were at Baskerville in Tasmania, I did think it could have steered a bit better around the track. But back on the road, it was great. Maybe it was just my lack of talentsounds about right, more neg camber required front and rear for track work from what I have read Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
clutch-monkey Posted 2August, 2017 Report Share Posted 2August, 2017 I was hoping to make this thread a good resource for all rather than just specific to me. I do agree on some of the questions that should be included in the responses and I will add it to the first post.The run down on my car is as follows -Car Model - 1975 911S backdated to 1973 2.8RSR looks.Engine/Gearbox/Diff - 3.0 Big port, 964 cams, fresh rebuild with custom EFI and custom exhaust using 997 Cup S muffler box, 915 gearbox, standard open centre for the moment (will change once its on the road). Still to be tuned so unsure on power.Suspension Details - 23/29mm torsion bars, Bilstein HD (yellow) shocks all round, rebel racing bushes front and rear. 1979 Carrera front sway bar, standard 1975 911S rear sway bar. Turbo Tie rods, steering rack raised 12mm.Wheel/Tyre sizes - 16x8 and 16x9.5 215/50 r16 front and 245/50 r16 Falken RT615 Front settings - ? camber ? toe ? castorRear settings - ? camber ? toeComments - Wanting it to be setup for a good comprimise between street and track, I work for two race circuits so it will see the track pretty often.would you be able to measure an existing set up on a different car and use that as a base? can bring my car around. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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