TINGY Posted 19May, 2015 Report Share Posted 19May, 2015 TINGY, or anyone who has used the JUICE swirl remover, did you do the STEP1 COMPUNDING step first? The COMPUNDING step, appears to be a light cutting agent which is also water based along with the STEP 2 SWIRL REMOVING PROCESS. Very impressive product and good DIY website videos. No Niko i got told i probably wouldn't need it and the advice was correct, but i do have a couple of spots i could use the step 1 on. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Niko Posted 19May, 2015 Report Share Posted 19May, 2015 Thanks Tingy, that confirms what the blokes at ART told me. Looking forward to using it. Might try it on the wife's gunmetal grey CX7 first, and go from there. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Niko Posted 8June, 2015 Report Share Posted 8June, 2015 I used this.......... and went from this........... to this Well, I know a lot of people on our forum are reasonably anal about the looks of our cars. (and so we should be) I purchased a bottle of SWIRL, and gave the 5 year old 112k CX7 family truck a birthday on Saturday. The paintwork was half reasonable as I look after it pretty well, but being the gun metal grey metallic it certainly had picked some slight swirl marks and a few blemishes. Have to say I am blown away by the result, I used a small 6" orbital polisher to apply the product and then microfibre to remove the excess. Finished off with AUTO GLYM extra gloss protection. I have the details of the Victorian distributor if anyone is interested. Interesting comment made from the supplier to me was that the product is going gang busters in NSW and QLD but not moving at all here in Vic. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Carrera86 Posted 12June, 2015 Report Share Posted 12June, 2015 I will put some in stock and see how it sells , that way i get to see how it works too Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dusty Posted 15August, 2015 Author Report Share Posted 15August, 2015 I mustered up the courage to address my bonnets paint problems today. After polishing, polishing and even more polishing over recent months, the results were almost but not quite up to par. The solution? sandpaper. A lot goes through your mind as you stand beside your car with an abrasive piece of paper in your hands just inches from your car's surface. I pushed on and here's the result:The Horror! I used 2000 grit hand blocking to get this result, mainly aiming at the orange peel so I knew there was some depth to the clear coat. From here I embarked on the compounding, did a bit by hand and a bit by my cheap DA polisher which really doesn't have the muscle for this type of application but I endured. This shot barely shows the first area pass on the top left corner but the gloss is beginning to return.After this, the orange peel was gone, the fine scratches we're mostly gone and only the most persistent ones remained. I followed the compounding up with the Juice anti swirl stuff and my heart rate began to return to normal: The last one's a bit rubbish and far from a show reflection but this is the same problem area that was originally posted. No more peel or deflections. There are still some good scratches that I may have been able to remove with more compounding but I was too fearful of burning through the clear coat. I'll try to get a paint depth measure and might carry on from there but to me at least, it's much more betterer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter M Posted 15August, 2015 Report Share Posted 15August, 2015 Oh Dusty! With all that compounding it appears your car has grown an ear!Not sure 2000 grit will get that out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hugh Posted 16August, 2015 Report Share Posted 16August, 2015 Wow, brave man indeed. Looks like a great result though - well done! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike D'Silva Posted 17August, 2015 Report Share Posted 17August, 2015 A bit late to the party, but here are my methods if anyone is interested.I buy most of my gear from www.carcareproducts.com.auThe DAS 6 Pro random orbital polisher, is what i use. It only has a 5 inch backing plate.. but I also got a small 3 inch(i think) plate for the smaller areas. This machine is around the $200 mark now.... The red 964 i recently bought, had lots of fine scratches, swirls etc.. Pretty sure it had never had a proper polish.First - massive wash.. lots of water, lots of rinsing lots of suds...Then I reapplied fresh soapy water and went to town wtih the clay block.. i dont use expensive clay lube.. (because I feel naughty when i say the word lube...).. I used to use it, but it seemed to disappear very quickly.. not sure where it all went???? Clay is the best thing ever... all the grit and most contaminants gone.Using microfibre towels, the car is dried.. I then work on 1 panel at a time and use blue painters tape to mask off trim, sunroof seals, badges etc.. Also removed the window wipers...When it comes to polishing, I tend to be conservative.. I use a medium cut foam pad, with a medium cut polish (Menzerna)... working slowly, overlapping etc.. only 4 pea-sized drops of compound on the pad. I try to use small amounts.. any more is a waste I think. I'll probably spend 5 minutes polishing a 2 square foot area.... working the compound till it breaks down. Residue is wiped away with a microfibre cloth.. So I tend to do the whole car, in this slow laborious method.. even with this first pass, the car looks awesome..However, I then go through with a light cut foam pad, and lightweight compound (still Menzerna)...Finally, I apply wax by hand... and after it dries, gently buff off the residue.Wish I had taken a before and after shot... it really is much much better now... After this is done, I itend to use Dodo Lime Prime... to get all the old wax off before I apply a new coat...Everyone has a different way of doing it.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dusty Posted 17August, 2015 Author Report Share Posted 17August, 2015 No polish after the 2 stages of compounding Mike? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike D'Silva Posted 18August, 2015 Report Share Posted 18August, 2015 isnt "polish" another name for compounding ? I'm no expert.. but I always thought polish and compound was the same thing..I think of polishing, as correcting all the flaws, getting rid of scratches, holograms, swirls etc.. Then I put on a top coat of wax, to protect all my hard work.Happy to be corrected. Would love to learn more. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
180athid Posted 19August, 2015 Report Share Posted 19August, 2015 sorry mike i will have to disagree with you there a cutting compound is not a polish. Cutting compounds will have abrasives in them to cut back and remove paint imperfections\scratches stage one is the most coarse and products such as swirl remover will have a light abrasive this and also filling agents in it to "hide some fine scratches" usually in a 4 stage process the final stage would be a polish resin that will really give you a pop in colour and colour and depth.After this process any sealant\wax is required so your "hard" work won't just wash away after you have washed your car a few times. most sealants will last up to 6 month if used with the correct ph natural wash.i know all this because I'm the state manager for Autoglym and Rupes please fell free to ask any more questions Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike D'Silva Posted 20August, 2015 Report Share Posted 20August, 2015 good post.. always willing to learn a little more... I'm just an amateur hack at best.I always thought that a "polish" had abrasives in it too...guess not. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
180athid Posted 20August, 2015 Report Share Posted 20August, 2015 Hi mike it really depends on brands best to read a little about the product before you pick one for your desired application. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coastr Posted 20August, 2015 Report Share Posted 20August, 2015 I will put some in stock and see how it sells , that way i get to see how it works too What's the best Bowdens product to use after clay bar? Fathers day is coming up so I need to leave strong suggestions lying around the house. I have a Bowdens clay bar kit which I haven't yet used, but I know I need to put something down on top of it. Dusty, your continuous effort has turned that car from an unloved ugly duckling to a little swan. A lesson to all of us to look past hideous body modifications, torn interiors and leaking engines to what lies underneath. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Carrera86 Posted 21August, 2015 Report Share Posted 21August, 2015 Bowdens Wax , you will need Bowdens detail spray to use with the clay bar Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dusty Posted 22August, 2015 Author Report Share Posted 22August, 2015 Update - so there were still some evident scratches in the clear coat that were only visible in certain light. I spoke to my local paint guy who thought the septone compound that I'd been using was likely to blame, unless contaminants got into the sand paper while I was blocking but I was pretty careful with my rinsing/swapping paper etc. Either way, while the orange peel and paint runs were gone, they'd been replaced in spots by micro scratches. On his expert advice, there was still a good amount of depth to the clear to continue compounding but this time with some Juice Q-cut. Although my Polisher isn't very powerful, I was still surprised at how hard I had to work the product in to flatten out the scratches. Unless you were using a high powered orbital polisher or some really hardcore compound, I reckon you'd struggle get into trouble. Unless you had no paint depth left of course. So after several vigorous passes with the Q-cut compound it was looking much better, the paint had a nice gloss and good depth. I continued with a single pass of swirl remover then a single pass with a standard polish. I'll get it into the sunlight tomorrow for the real test but pretty happy with it for now. There's still a few remnant lines in places but the effort plus risk in removing too much paint isn't worth it. Now I just need to polish the rest of the car then seal it before I bury my polisher in the backyard hoping never to see it again.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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