Stew F Posted 5July, 2015 Report Share Posted 5July, 2015 I'm just about to rip in to doing my from brakes. Is it safe enough to put my chassis stands under the front cross member? 911SC Doing new rotors and pads, hub seals, repaint the calipers and anything else I find while the wheels are off. Might also paint my nuts. They're looking a bit ratty. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dusty Posted 5July, 2015 Report Share Posted 5July, 2015 I use the front control arm mounts but you should be safe in using the cross member, I've just never done it myself.What will you use to 'paint your nuts?' Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stew F Posted 6July, 2015 Author Report Share Posted 6July, 2015 What will you use to 'paint your nuts?' rustoleum! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tazzieman Posted 9July, 2015 Report Share Posted 9July, 2015 Doing new rotors and pads, hub seals, repaint the calipers and anything else I find while the wheels are off. Might also paint my nuts. They're looking a bit ratty.Hub seals and inner bearings too?Cross member is fine , use wood blocks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coastr Posted 9July, 2015 Report Share Posted 9July, 2015 What's the consensus on this site for jacking the rear? Block of wood or folded up paper on the engine seam as per Dempseys book? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fraz Posted 9July, 2015 Report Share Posted 9July, 2015 From my owners manual. (964) "The car must not, under any circumstance, be jacked up by the engine, transmission or front/rear axels. This can cause serious damage". Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dusty Posted 9July, 2015 Report Share Posted 9July, 2015 I use the engine often, exactly as coastr describes and I'm yet to turn into a pumpkin. Or jack pads at each side is a personal favourite, especially when you are missing an engine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
clutch-monkey Posted 9July, 2015 Report Share Posted 9July, 2015 What's the consensus on this site for jacking the rear? Block of wood or folded up paper on the engine seam as per Dempseys book?have seen some people use the torsion bars as a jacking point, no idea if that's gonna end in tears or not. engine is probably fine but they are expensive so i tend not to, i use the end plates of the roll cage. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tazzieman Posted 9July, 2015 Report Share Posted 9July, 2015 From my owners manual. (964) "The car must not, under any circumstance, be jacked up by the engine, transmission or front/rear axels. This can cause serious damage".People do silly things like using the A arms or spring plates or banana arms or the sump plug...or similar bits on the 964.Wayne Dempsey the PP deity reckons a phone book under the sump is fine. Fine to jack it up , but you've got to put the stands somewhere else! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coastr Posted 9July, 2015 Report Share Posted 9July, 2015 It staggers me that cars do not come with a proper central front and rear jacking point. Cars are going to get jacked. Make a point that will take the load. Ultimately if it stops 1% of cars being damaged it helps the brand by that many fewer cases of the car being blamed for something broken caused by incorrect jacking. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tazzieman Posted 10July, 2015 Report Share Posted 10July, 2015 It staggers me that cars do not come with a proper central front and rear jacking point. Cars are going to get jacked. Make a point that will take the load. Ultimately if it stops 1% of cars being damaged it helps the brand by that many fewer cases of the car being blamed for something broken caused by incorrect jacking.Despite the fact that 924s , 944s and 928s do come so equipped (reinforced hole to securely locate \jack pad/pin) you still find past evidence of chassis rails dinged and bent.Trust no-one, and blame yourself if something goes wrong during/after working on your pride and joy! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter M Posted 10July, 2015 Report Share Posted 10July, 2015 It staggers me that cars do not come with a proper central front and rear jacking point.I agree but it equally applies to the other quaints characteristics of these things like the HVAC, the unhelpful rear toe control, dash switch layout and a number of other quirks that I can't think of right now because, well, they're charming and part of the experience! Would it be worth doing a sticky in the Air Cooled section for safe jacking?I know myself that it took a while before I was comfortable with getting it on jack stands. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stew F Posted 10July, 2015 Author Report Share Posted 10July, 2015 I don't think the dash switch layout was particularly planned. More like "where can we put this switch? Oh yeah, there's a spot under that gauge panel. " I did end up putting the stands under the cross member. Very sturdy and out of the way of the work I'm doing.And yes, hub seals. I'll check the bearings when I pull it all apart. They were changed less than 10000km ago. But that was about 5 years. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coastr Posted 10July, 2015 Report Share Posted 10July, 2015 I was referring to 'most cars in general' not just AC 911sMy BMW has a dedicated jack point under the front cross member but no matching point at the rear. So you either jack one side at a time (dangerous) or you jack the diff (potentially disastrous).Maybe it's because they don't want owners jacking cars without a 4 post? But then, all cars get jacked sooner or later, so why not plan for it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter M Posted 10July, 2015 Report Share Posted 10July, 2015 I don't like how the lifting pads of the common 2 post lifts have to bear on the floor pan seam - since there is nothing else around - and often crush the AC refrigerant line as well.Is there a potential market to sell safe lift adaptors for uptight air cooled owners? I'm thinking something like a hockey puck with a slot across the top to fit over the floor pan seam. BTW - Did the last of the C3.2 have modern style lift pads installed or did that change occur with the 964's? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stew F Posted 10July, 2015 Author Report Share Posted 10July, 2015 I've been meaning to get one of those jacking thingies that slots in the side jack mounts. Someone, at some point earlier in the cars life, has used a trolley jack under the floor and started to crush the oil lines. Not anything to worry about, but I might do something about it at some point in time. As I get into the job at hand I'll post some how to's and pictures. . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Harvs11 Posted 10July, 2015 Report Share Posted 10July, 2015 I've had a jack adapter for a while and only use it for a quick lift when changing tyres. I don't like to side lift when placing stands under the car. It feels quite unstable. Better to jack from front or rear and placing stands at both sides at once, one end at a time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stew F Posted 11July, 2015 Author Report Share Posted 11July, 2015 Had a little bit of time spare so I started this job today. I've taken the calipers off, cleaned them and painted them, painted the heads of the pins, and the anti rattle springs. Cleaned the hubs and now ready to remove them. How do you remove the dust caps? On PP it says to remove them with a large pair of multigrips, but they seem like they're a pretty tight fit. Any ideas?And I didn't paint the calipers red. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
911oclock Posted 11July, 2015 Report Share Posted 11July, 2015 Had a little bit of time spare so I started this job today. I've taken the calipers off, cleaned them and painted them, painted the heads of the pins, and the anti rattle springs. Cleaned the hubs and now ready to remove them. How do you remove the dust caps? On PP it says to remove them with a large pair of multigrips, but they seem like they're a pretty tight fit. Any ideas?And I didn't paint the calipers red. I've used an exhaust pipe clamp around the cap, then you can lever against it to pop it off. Saves putting gouge marks in your cap! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stew F Posted 12July, 2015 Author Report Share Posted 12July, 2015 I've used an exhaust pipe clamp around the cap, then you can lever against it to pop it off. Saves putting gouge marks in your cap!I saw this method on the internet last night. Sounds like the way to go Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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