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986 Loss of power from standstill


Davion

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Hi guys,

Need some help here. Was driving around town the whole of today and this only happened towards the end of the day.

I was behind a set of lights and changed to 1st gear to get going.

The car moved but felt really sluggish, and as the revs rised to 2000rpm, there was a sudden loss of power, and the car gradually came to a stall like the engine was cut. I had to restart the car in the middle of the lights.

It happened again for the rest of the journey home. When the car is on 3-4 gear and moving, its fine. But once it gets stuck on a set of lights or traffic, I'll get the same issue of power loss at 1st/2nd gear. The engine then either cuts out (in which case I have to restart the car) or gradually loses power and then suddenly come alive and drives as per normal again. 

Has this occured to anyone else?

- Ken

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What revs did it do it at? A faulty MAF usually affects lower revs/ off idle and should be fine when you rev it?

They are a service item at around 100000km and are usually not expensive and can also be cleaned as stated above (wife's was recently cleaned in her Volvo to good effect)

Have you checked for codes?

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Going to autohaus tomorrow morning to have it looked at. Yup it chokes on lower gears and around the 2000rpm mark. Revving it higher cuts the power off as well. Also it happened towards the end of the drive in the evening (we were out for most of the day) so I don't believe it's a warm up issue. Not sure if it's related but I did rmb clearing all counters on the dashboard and popping in new CDs for the first time earlier during the day. Highly doubt it's related but might as well throw it out here anyway. Also noted that my fuel consumption is terrible at 15l/100km. 

Any chance of brake dust going into the vents andgand dirtying the sensors in the engine bay? I always notice that the vent entrance on the sides are always dirty

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have you plugged it into a diganostic computer to see if it has any codes? personally that'd be the first step i'd take on a newer car

might be worth getting the software and a bluetooth code reader, or one of the durametrics if you're going to do alot of work yourself

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