Dusty Posted 10February, 2015 Author Report Share Posted 10February, 2015 Cal, there were two that I had trouble with and yes, they're leaking as well as a few others. I pulled the two troublesome ones and they appeared undamaged from my incorrect tightening, I just re-polished then re-installed them. From the service history, my rocker shafts have been removed several times previously which from what I've read means they often won't re-seal correctly, even when re-torqued at 18-21nm. Some go to to 27nm but I think you'd be getting to the limits of the bolt. I just hope this is the cause of the leak and I didn't make an error with the cam housing to head sealant cause that'd almost be a back to base engine re-drop. Hard to tell. RE the bodywork, there's a local recommended guy who works almost exclusively on classics and hot rods but I wont know exactly how those flares were added until the angle grinder comes out... Magnets stick to them so they've definitely been welded on, I just hope the original SC bodywork is under there and is largely unmolested. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Russ Posted 11February, 2015 Report Share Posted 11February, 2015 Hi Russ,did anyone do a quick car count on Saturday?there seemed to be a larger turnout than previous C&C,s. I left before the threatening showers arrived as cleaning a black sc when put away wet is a pain Regards Pete. 200+ I think, everyone disappeared when the rain started. Was I following you on the way in? and Dusty, do you have Turbo valve covers or the magnesium ones? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dusty Posted 11February, 2015 Author Report Share Posted 11February, 2015 Russ, Just the magnesium ones - I'm confident these aren't the source of the current leak as it's coming from behind the covers but I intend to upgrade to the turbo covers as soon as I can. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SC 3.2 Posted 11February, 2015 Report Share Posted 11February, 2015 200+ I think, everyone disappeared when the rain started. Was I following you on the way in? and Dusty, do you have Turbo valve covers or the magnesium ones? Yes russ,that was me. Regards Pete, Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Russ Posted 11February, 2015 Report Share Posted 11February, 2015 Russ, Just the magnesium ones - I'm confident these aren't the source of the current leak as it's coming from behind the covers but I intend to upgrade to the turbo covers as soon as I can. When you do this was the best deal I found on them: http://www.allzim.com/store/cart.php?m=product_detail&p=720 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dusty Posted 12February, 2015 Author Report Share Posted 12February, 2015 Thanks Russ, that's cheaper than I've ever seen them. Now you've given me a conundrum..! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Caledonian Posted 12February, 2015 Report Share Posted 12February, 2015 Yes, good share Russ…. do you know what the quality is like? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Carrera Posted 12February, 2015 Report Share Posted 12February, 2015 yes it is for the clutch and a few oil leaks that are starting to develop More than happy to start a thread on it Caledonia but I can't seem to be able to upload photo's so will need to work that out first Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Russ Posted 12February, 2015 Report Share Posted 12February, 2015 Yes, good share Russ…. do you know what the quality is like? I've had them on my engine for 2 years and no leaks so far so good - they were pretty decent looking before i put them in too that is also the place that i bought my 70mm heater hose from, If you end up grabbing one of the turbo valve covers mike let me know and I'll grab some hoses at the same time Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Caledonian Posted 13February, 2015 Report Share Posted 13February, 2015 yes it is for the clutch and a few oil leaks that are starting to develop More than happy to start a thread on it Caledonia but I can't seem to be able to upload photo's so will need to work that out first You need to get one of those free web photo sharing accounts the Fliker or Photobucket, there is also a thread on here that will explain it way simpler than I can. Good luck with the drop Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dusty Posted 14February, 2015 Author Report Share Posted 14February, 2015 Installed the RSR seals with a few minor hiccups, sheared a couple of them but the majority went in well. I've got no idea how some manage to do this dry cause I could only get them in with assembly lube. Went for a quick drive and used a thicker mineral oil but it looks like the leak may still be there. Might be some residual oil still making its way off the engine but I'm not hopeful. Its coming off the lowest, rear-most point of the cam housing on both sides so it looks like another engine drop will be in order soon if it doesn't clear up. It's minimal but dropping straight onto the heat exchangers so the smoke is pretty bad... Whenever I arrive somewhere, I feel like a really crap ninja. In other news, I lent a minor finger to Paul Carrera's engine drop today. One of the straightest, cleanest 3.2's I've seen. Being new to 911's. it's amazing to see the progress from my 78 to his 86 whilst staying 'familiar' to the original concept. Anyway, its a a very impressive car and looking forward to a group drive when both cars are in top health! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Caledonian Posted 14February, 2015 Report Share Posted 14February, 2015 Get a small digital camera and stick down the back of the motor and just click away, eventually you will get some good pics of whats going on down there and if there is no sign of oil a least you know it not the breather etc. Also have you tried running the car on stands and watching for drips? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tit Posted 14February, 2015 Report Share Posted 14February, 2015 At least three times my mechanic and I have degreased the entire underside of my car and run it on the hoist. Two valve cover reseals later and we worked out it was coming from the oil pressure sender. No where near where we were looking! Sorting it out this wednesday (hopefully). Point is...persist and hopefully you'll work it out without having to do something drastic... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
firstone Posted 14February, 2015 Report Share Posted 14February, 2015 Ahhh, a genuinely good reason to own a selfie stick. I've used the phone camera before with great success. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Carrera Posted 14February, 2015 Report Share Posted 14February, 2015 Installed the RSR seals with a few minor hiccups, sheared a couple of them but the majority went in well. I've got no idea how some manage to do this dry cause I could only get them in with assembly lube. Went for a quick drive and used a thicker mineral oil but it looks like the leak may still be there. Might be some residual oil still making its way off the engine but I'm not hopeful. Its coming off the lowest, rear-most point of the cam housing on both sides so it looks like another engine drop will be in order soon if it doesn't clear up. It's minimal but dropping straight onto the heat exchangers so the smoke is pretty bad... Whenever I arrive somewhere, I feel like a really crap ninja. In other news, I lent a minor finger to Paul Carrera's engine drop today. One of the straightest, cleanest 3.2's I've seen. Being new to 911's. it's amazing to see the progress from my 78 to his 86 whilst staying 'familiar' to the original concept. Anyway, its a a very impressive car and looking forward to a group drive when both cars are in top health! Thanks for the hand today dusty certainly made it a lot easier Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dusty Posted 14February, 2015 Author Report Share Posted 14February, 2015 I was under it while running yesterday and it was dry, it only seems to leak while driving or under higher oil pressure than idle. I'll put some more km's on it over the coming days and take a few photos - the selfie stick is a great idea! It's good to find a use for useless gifts. Some smart-&%#$ got me one for my work secret santa as a pay-out for buying a Porsche... I'm focusing on the cam housing because during the re-build, I had them electro-sonically cleaned while the housing's were still bolted to the heads. I asked the technician if the bond between the two would survive the cleaning process and he was adamant that if they were bolted securely, then they'll be fine. Against my better judgement, I didn't pull them apart to be sure so I think the electro-sonic cleaning must've taken away just enough of the original sealant to cause a leak at the #3 and #6 cylinders... If indeed that's the location of the leak. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dusty Posted 6May, 2015 Author Report Share Posted 6May, 2015 Once more unto the breach dear friends... Need to rename this thread "Engine drop - 2nd time... Cause I'm a muppet" It's been 3 months since the car came back together and although it's running beautifully, there's a few minor oil leaks, two of which leak on to the heat exchangers and stink up the garage... I won't need to go in as deep this time, only as far as the cylinder heads so I can re-seal the cam housing/head surfaces which were eroded during ultrasonic cleaning. Will also do a couple of other cosmetic jobs, re-align the tail light boxes, get the paint off the rear bumper bellows, find the minor leak at the front of the engine (likely to be the flywheel seal) and thoroughly clean behind the bumpers cause I'm sick of dirt landing in my eyes every time I'm under the car... Will also check the to see if the rocker seals are doing their jobs and replace where necessary. I've got a head start on the drop by removing the bumper and will begin the drop tomorrow. Hoping to have it complete within a couple of weeks. No pants: Here's the leaky culprit, only visible while running but it weeps all along the mating surfaces between the heads and the cam housings : Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dusty Posted 7May, 2015 Author Report Share Posted 7May, 2015 Much easier the second time around, dropped in under 4 hours. It's a much more relaxed process when the rear bumper is removed because you don't have to lift the car anywhere near as high but it did add some prep time last night. Feeling vindicated after getting the heat exchangers off both banks and seeing the obvious oil leak coming from the cam housings but I wasn't expecting to find another leak at the top in the triangle of death... Will have to find out which one of the three is leaking and do something different to last time to prevent it happening again. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
911oclock Posted 7May, 2015 Report Share Posted 7May, 2015 Could it be the oil presure sensor leaking through the switch body itself? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dusty Posted 7May, 2015 Author Report Share Posted 7May, 2015 I think you're right, is the cure a coat of JB Weld around the base or something else? Despite the mess, the oil spreads in a neat pattern away from the switch so hopefully it's just that. Will have a better look after I remove the CIS and shroud. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coastr Posted 7May, 2015 Report Share Posted 7May, 2015 You've got an orphan bolt there. What's the plan for depainting the bellows? Stripper? Will that eat the rubber away as well? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dusty Posted 7May, 2015 Author Report Share Posted 7May, 2015 The amount of orphan bolts I've rescued along this journey, you'd think my last name was Jolie. Some are bound to escape my tender loving care. Not sure with the bellows, just flexing them cracks the paint up a fair bit so perhaps a good scrub in the first instance and see where to from there. I've heard vasoline is good for bringing the rubber back to life but other reports say it eats into it...? Might test it on the reverse side. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coastr Posted 8May, 2015 Report Share Posted 8May, 2015 Yeah I'd do some testing on the reverse side first. Maybe with some twisting of the rubber you can get it to crack and start lifting, then get underneath with a scraper. Probably worth checking what replacement bellows are worth too, as I imagine they were produced in large numbers being a 'sacrificial' piece. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dusty Posted 8May, 2015 Author Report Share Posted 8May, 2015 Removed the CIS and valve covers in my brief stint today. The rockers don't appear to have leaked a drop so the RSR rocker seals are working splendidly. If anyone else is considering the upgrade because of leaks, I'd recommend it and it can be done without an engine drop. Next job is to remove the cam boxes then the rockers, cam housings, clean the mating surfaces and then begin re-sealing. Still unsure on the source of the leak(s) from the top triangle but think I'll re-seal the lot of them anyway, this time with some sealant instead of dry. Any suggestions? Curil T comes highly recommended but I'm struggling to find here it in oz. Will also replace the oil breather hose which I didn't do last time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Caledonian Posted 8May, 2015 Report Share Posted 8May, 2015 I used this on my bikes and cars http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/THREE-BOND-TB1215-250-Light-Grey-RTV-Silicon-Liquid-Gasket-utilised-On-Auto-/321405654784?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_15&hash=item4ad5451700 not cheap but works very well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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