Hughesy Posted 25September, 2015 Report Share Posted 25September, 2015 gday lads. Can anyone advise if there's a thread on removing and cleaning the fuel tank in a 1980 SC CHEERS HUGHESY Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OZ930 Posted 25September, 2015 Report Share Posted 25September, 2015 Somebody here did do it but I cannot find it yet, so here is one from "the duck"http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/327545-how-do-you-remove-fuel-tank-mines-stuck-67-911s.html Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hughesy Posted 25September, 2015 Author Report Share Posted 25September, 2015 That's perfect. Thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OZ930 Posted 25September, 2015 Report Share Posted 25September, 2015 Also found this one, just scroll down the info is there.http://www.porscherepair.us/porsche-911-1984-1989/fuel-supply.html Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
clutch-monkey Posted 25September, 2015 Report Share Posted 25September, 2015 very easy to do you will not have any troubles. Might be an idea to order a replacement strip that goes around the edge of the tank and the floor pan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LeeM Posted 25September, 2015 Report Share Posted 25September, 2015 I'll be looking at Clark Rubber for some sort of rubber for the tank to pan. Or was thinking of using a pinch strip that attaches to he tank edge and knock it on. Cheap and very effective. I used the pinch strip to fit to my rear over riders instead of flimsy rubber gaskets that ended up in the bin! There are LOADS of products that are a close replacement to original seals etchttp://www.clarkrubber.com.au/rubber-and-flooring/rubber-extrusions-3/pinchweld-seal.htmlThis is the Porsche replacement part plus shipping http://www.stoddard.com/901-504-932-20-fuel-tank-seal.htmlThis is the Clark Rubber range http://www.clarkrubber.com.au/rubber-and-flooring/rubber-extrusions-3/sponge-seal.htmlAll you need is the width and buy a metre or 2. much cheaper and easliy available Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hughesy Posted 25September, 2015 Author Report Share Posted 25September, 2015 Another genius idea from the PFA brain bank thanks guys Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LeeM Posted 25September, 2015 Report Share Posted 25September, 2015 No worries. I would probably use a thinner higher density rubber than the grey foam. Theyre sticky backed, so make sure the pan is clean before applyingJust drop into Clark rubber and have a look around Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OZ930 Posted 25September, 2015 Report Share Posted 25September, 2015 No worries. I would probably use a thinner higher density rubber than the grey foam. Theyre sticky backed, so make sure the pan is clean before applyingJust drop into Clark rubber and have a look around I did this when I was rebuilding the "tea tray" and needed the tail to engine cover seal. While Clark Rubber had something close it was actually cheaper to buy the factory part and as it turned out, was easier to fit. A lot of their products are sold by the metre and work out expensive.By all means shop around but don't totally discard the factory part. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LeeM Posted 25September, 2015 Report Share Posted 25September, 2015 Ah ok Oz. I'm impatient and when I want something, I want it yesterday Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OZ930 Posted 25September, 2015 Report Share Posted 25September, 2015 Ah ok Oz. I'm impatient and when I want something, I want it yesterday Aren't we all ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter M Posted 25September, 2015 Report Share Posted 25September, 2015 Hughesy,I've recently had my tank out to tidy up. I was unable to get the correct coloured chip guard so I ended up painting the tank after applying new chip guard to the places that needed redoing. Amazingly I found that Taubmans do an exact match! I can dig out the name of the colour if you're interested. Cheers Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
clutch-monkey Posted 25September, 2015 Report Share Posted 25September, 2015 i simply used por15 on mine Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OZ930 Posted 26September, 2015 Report Share Posted 26September, 2015 Oh no, I feel another project coming on ……. and I haven't finished the first three yet!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jnr356 Posted 26September, 2015 Report Share Posted 26September, 2015 wurth grey stoneguard is nearly identical to original finish,when used with appropriate gun Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stew F Posted 26September, 2015 Report Share Posted 26September, 2015 No worries. I would probably use a thinner higher density rubber than the grey foam. Theyre sticky backed, so make sure the pan is clean before applyingJust drop into Clark rubber and have a look around Fitch The Rubber Man is also a good source of rubber extrusions. We spec a lot of gear from their range in our client's designs. I bought some gear from there for my 50's Dodge once. A windscreen seal and some door seals. As well as their own range of general stuff, I think they are an agent for Scott's Old Auto Rubber. They've moved on from the days of whoopee cushions, joy buzzers and fake vomit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter M Posted 26September, 2015 Report Share Posted 26September, 2015 i simply used por15 on mineYou hot rodders! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hughesy Posted 26September, 2015 Author Report Share Posted 26September, 2015 Amazing job clutch. Looks the goods. I've looked up pcc products on northshore. I've got a shopping list. Pors tank kit pors 15 paint leatherique leather rejuvenating kit. Im gonna be busy. Peter M if you could supply tau mans code that would be great. Will quote it to pcc and see if they can match it. Cheers hughesy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
clutch-monkey Posted 26September, 2015 Report Share Posted 26September, 2015 I believe there is now a locally made version of por15 called kbs coatings, and it works out cheaper? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter M Posted 26September, 2015 Report Share Posted 26September, 2015 Peter M if you could supply tau mans code that would be great. Im gonna be busy.Hughesy,I found the Taubmans colour "Almaz" to be an exact match for the original weird olive green grey colour of the tank in my '85. Sorry, I don't have the code but I'm sure you will get it easily if you ask.To remove the existing chip guard I found these 3M abrasive wheels from Bunnings useful:http://www.bunnings.com.au/3m-4-paint-rust-stripper-abrasive-disc-_p6314180Just take care to flush the tank afterwards as the abrasive impregnated in the wheel is just that, abrasive! You're going to busier as having the tank out is also the ideal time to redo the rust proofing in the hollow front cross member and side sections and the notorious bit under the battery. Also a great time to repaint the area around the battery and the front of the frunk as access won't get any easier than now. Cheers Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hughesy Posted 27September, 2015 Author Report Share Posted 27September, 2015 drained the tank. Choked on siphon alas I always do that. Looks very poor. and now to get stuck in Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike-S Posted 27September, 2015 Report Share Posted 27September, 2015 Before you get stuck in, take a really good look inside the tank. If it's the same colour as that old fuel, you need to clean / degrease the tank first before chucking that marine clean into it. 4 litres just isn't sufficient to clean out an 80 litre tank. You'll also struggle to get the tank sealer round the inside of the tank if it's an original one, the baffle in the middle will hold all the sealer so unless the tank is leaking, don't put the sealer in.I've gone through this exercise in the last few weeks, you could say this is the voice of experience ! Best thing you can do is go to your local Coles / Woolies, buy all the 2 litre bottles of apple cider vinegar you can find and pour that in after you've degreased it. Leave it for a week or so, it'll shift all the rust off the inside and leave you with a shiny clean tank that doesn't need any kind of sealer on it. I couldn't believe how well mine came up considering the condition it started in. Took a fair bit of swilling out with demineralised water and bicarbonate of soda but it's shiny inside now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hughesy Posted 27September, 2015 Author Report Share Posted 27September, 2015 Thanks for the heads up mike. Will follow up on your tip. Cheers hughesy Mike , what did you use to degrease the tank. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike-S Posted 27September, 2015 Report Share Posted 27September, 2015 Just replied to your message Hughesy with the process I followed to clean my tank. Cheap degreaser from Repco was my solution. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hughesy Posted 27September, 2015 Author Report Share Posted 27September, 2015 BRILLIANT THANKS AGAIN Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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