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No start when cold


ByronBayChris

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Help me out here.

When cold, the 356 will crank happily, but not fire.  If I attach an external 6v battery to the one in the car, it starts immediately, but only when I attach +ve to +ve and -ve to ground strap.

HOWEVER.....when warm it starts first time.

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Slightly stronger spark. Take the old battery out and try cold start with the new one.

Of course being a 356,  you may have other tuning issues! How's your points?

When warm , old cars are easier to start , as a rule .

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You running webers or solex? You really have to find the sweet spot with the accelerator  peddle. Too little = nothing. Too much is a flood. And when it kicks you have to tickle it enough to keep it going to get some warmth into it.

16 years of practice and sometimes it's still a lottery.

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If it turns out to be a carb issue , one thing the old benz guys say is that modern fuel evaporates completely from the bowl , so you start "dry" each day. A different behaviour from the fuels 50+ years ago, with a different start procedure. YMMV!

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Do you even have cold starts up at sunny Byron? Your cold start is my hot start!

It's been as low as 12 degrees here recently........that's damn cold !:D

You running webers or solex? You really have to find the sweet spot with the accelerator  peddle. Too little = nothing. Too much is a flood. And when it kicks you have to tickle it enough to keep it going to get some warmth into it.

16 years of practice and sometimes it's still a lottery.

Running 40mm webers on a 912 engine.

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If it turns out to be a carb issue , one thing the old benz guys say is that modern fuel evaporates completely from the bowl , so you start "dry" each day. A different behaviour from the fuels 50+ years ago, with a different start procedure. YMMV!

i have this with the datsun. i turn the ignition on and let the fuel pump fill the bowls on the carbs (can hear it slow down as they start to fill up). then foot to the floor and crank it over

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i have this with the datsun. i turn the ignition on and let the fuel pump fill the bowls on the carbs (can hear it slow down as they start to fill up). then foot to the floor and crank it over

Land Rover too. Now we will be castrated for derailing the thread!

Chris - 12C is a good maximum for this time of the year. But unlike C'berra it doesn't go below 0 overnight :<)

 

Back to the Webers. Are they Italian or the Spanish ones? 

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Land Rover too. Now we will be castrated for derailing the thread!

Chris - 12C is a good maximum for this time of the year. But unlike C'berra it doesn't go below 0 overnight :<)

 

Back to the Webers. Are they Italian or the Spanish ones? 

Italian, Spanish or Chinese ?

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Lot of people have a small electric pump to prime the carbies. Flick on- fill carbies - Start car flick pump off and let it run on the mechanical pump.

Or do what I do and run an electric pump all the time. Check your fuel pressure with an inline gauge. Webers need accurate consistent pressure (cant remember the No.) Also make sure pump jets correct size. Too big and they flood easily. Too small and the car won't accelerate cleanly and stutter when you press the peddle.

Don't even start to ask me about correct sizes for idle jet/air correction/main jet/emulsion tube/choke size etc etc.

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Lot of people have a small electric pump to prime the carbies. Flick on- fill carbies - Start car flick pump off and let it run on the mechanical pump.

Or do what I do and run an electric pump all the time. Check your fuel pressure with an inline gauge. Webers need accurate consistent pressure (cant remember the No.) Also make sure pump jets correct size. Too big and they flood easily. Too small and the car won't accelerate cleanly and stutter when you press the peddle.

Don't even start to ask me about correct sizes for idle jet/air correction/main jet/emulsion tube/choke size etc etc.

fuel is 3psi...... 

Thanks for the other info......

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Lot of people have a small electric pump to prime the carbies. Flick on- fill carbies - Start car flick pump off and let it run on the mechanical pump.

Or do what I do and run an electric pump all the time.

In my LR (:wub:) there is a Repco :wub::wub: electric pump the guy installed in 1980. It is the only pump.  On the coldest day , I squeeze the throttle slightly after letting the pump tick for about 10 seconds. Vroom (but only if the battery is well charged)

Benz guy said another cold start way is to crank for 10-15 seconds, then pump fully ~3 times and start. That has worked for me with 50 year old non rebuilt carbies in cars with mechanical pumps only!

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Chris- I use three-four pumps on the accelerator on cool mornings and it starts straight up.  I have an electric pump I fitted as a back up but never need to use it.  I have spent hours re-building the carbs with particular attention to the float levels and the squirt volumes in transition.  However, in your case I assume the points are set right (and insulated from the distributor case at the rear) and that the condenser and coil are on spec?

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Chris you cannot expect a car to run with a BBQ for a carbie..

I know I know slap me hard when you see me ...

Question .. seriously condenser have you checked it.

Next , a non return valve in the fuel line after the filter.. I find this has helped on the Esky and I the baby is shivering in the 9C morning this week

My start works like dorothys ruby slippers, just put that heal firmly on the floor , click that pedal to the metal three times and then theres no place like home…. with no throttle..

If it floods as sometimes is the case in the Northern Rivers… foot to the floor like a demon and crank the baby, hot or cold and it normally clears and starts after a few turns

 

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My start works like dorothys ruby slippers, just put that heal firmly on the floor ,

A European Union of German and Italian/Spanish/Chinese parts is always going to be an experiment . 

Whereas Symsy it's all in the same inbred family in your vehicular stable , unless you sneakily decided to dip your heel into the foreign parts bin.

Symsy's got a bitzer , Symsys got a bitzer :lol: 

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