Tools to remove Centrelock Wheels

[SteveC]

What tools have you got to remove centrelock wheels?

Porsche recommends a 800nm adjustable torque wrench and a breaker bar. Not sure why a torque multiplier isn't used as it seems like a better solution than a breaker bar or a very long wrench and easier. 

Retail auto shops don't seem to have the right tools and looks like the tools are only available online

Trying to get a wheel off and all that comes with the car is the socket

I'm thinking a digital gauge up to 800nm and a torque multiplier that they use to get wheel nuts off could work? all up $1000

Porsche quoted $3300 and $1200 for the wrench and breaker bar...

Thanks!

[StevepGT3]

I got one of these on ebay

http://www.tooltopia.com/precision-instruments-c4d600f.aspx

plus if you have pccb`s one of these is a good idea

 

http://www.suncoastparts.com/product/CLTOOL.html

[SteveC]

Porsche tech was saying they need 2 guys to take off CL wheels the other day i was at the Porsche Dealer... I was thinking no way... has to be easier than that.

I got one of these on ebay

http://www.tooltopia.com/precision-instruments-c4d600f.aspx

plus if you have pccb`s one of these is a good idea

 

http://www.suncoastparts.com/product/CLTOOL.html

The CL tool is a great idea

[StevepGT3]

The wheel you are removing has to be off the ground, so you need another person on the brakes,or as I do use a reversed clamp and a block of wood to apply them.

You also need a tube of Optimol grease.

Also read this

http://rennlist.com/forums/porsche-technical-info-in-detail/701756-centerlock-wheels-assessment.html

[Airhead]

Need one of these.

[Redracn]

Porsche tech was saying they need 2 guys to take off CL wheels the other day i was at the Porsche Dealer... I was thinking no way... has to be easier than that.

The CL tool is a great idea

You can get the rears of yourself with the handbrake. The fronts will just spin even if they are on the ground. But you are supposed to have them raised. Expanding wood working clamps on the pedal are great for applying the brakes.  A tube of optimol will be needed. 

CL is a major PITA 

I use a kincrome flex-beam torque wrench set to 600nm and an extending rachet breaker bar when at home. As part of a temp spare kit I have a lightweight stainless 3piece tube bar that assembles to be about a meter long. Torque is set by a mark on the bar where I place my full weight.

[SteveC]

The more I look into the more interesting this becomes

porsche released a bulletin that parts of centrelock wheels had to be replaced after 7000 track kms and almost all parts by 28000kms... Not great news to those buying second hand buying a gt3 with 'no tracks kms'

add to those most tyre shops have no idea what these are as I have found when the tyre manager said 'those look cool, how do I remove them??' at one of the few shops I visited

where do you buy the paste?

do I need 4 jack stands so the car is off the ground?

[StevepGT3]

Optimol can be sourced from PCM,

It seems to me that it was one of those seemed like a good idea at the time things, however they have stuck with it,and they do look good.

I have a Hoist and all the right tools, so it`s no big deal and really takes not much longer than 5 studs,however I would not entrust the task to anyone who is not 100% familiar with how they need to be done.

This Video may help 

 

[Barks]

Matt Moreman shows us how...he just needs to learn how to edit!!

 

 

 

[edgy]

Have you guys considered doing the 5 lug conversion? It's well documented on Rennlist. 

[JV911]

The wheel you are removing has to be off the ground.

What's the theory behind that?

My brother's 991 actually came with one of these gadgets:

 

[StevepGT3]

What's the theory behind that?

My brother's 991 actually came with one of these gadgets:

 

 

If you look at them it makes sense to have the wheels totally off the ground for torquing, as the conical mating surface may not seat properly or be damaged.

Have you guys considered doing the 5 lug conversion? It's well documented on Rennlist. 

If the car was a track rat it might prove worthwhile, but as a road car there wouldn`t be any benefit that would warrant the hassle. 

[JV911]

So the idea is to use both hands rather than have one side of the tool on the ground as pictured?

Haven't used the tool yet but will do the week after next at a track day. 

[StevepGT3]

So the idea is to use both hands rather than have one side of the tool on the ground as pictured?

Haven't used the tool yet but will do the week after next at a track day. 

that must be a torque multiplier as you would struggle to get 600 nm with that little handle 

[Redracn]

So the idea is to use both hands rather than have one side of the tool on the ground as pictured?

Haven't used the tool yet but will do the week after next at a track day. 

You will not be able to hang onto the torque mulitiplier lever (shorter one in picture) as the force on that arm is close to the same as a long 1Meter lever. With the setup in the picture you will need to lengthen the torque converter arm or place a 100mm high block of wood under it as it will just lift the wheel up against the spring. Also you need to set the torque setting on the normal 1/2 inch torque wrench as per the ratio on the torque converter which is just a planetary gear box to amplify the input torque. I started out with one of these but converted to seperate 3/4" breaker bar and torque wrench. 

CL are ok when you have the correct gear in hand like a dedicated workshop or at trackside but when you need to remove a wheel outside of those situations it is a major PITA as only truck tyre joints have the gear.

[JV911]

place a 100mm high block of wood under it

ah, now that you mention it, it came with a rubber block.

Thanks for the insight...I should probably have read the instructions