Raven Posted 22August, 2018 Report Share Posted 22August, 2018 looking the business .............. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MFX Posted 28August, 2018 Author Report Share Posted 28August, 2018 This week I continue assembling John Lemon. It is not done, but at least now I can now drive it again. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MFX Posted 4September, 2018 Author Report Share Posted 4September, 2018 This weeks Beetle escapades move to doing something about the old ratty wheels and also refreshing the speedo. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MFX Posted 11September, 2018 Author Report Share Posted 11September, 2018 My Beetle 'John Lemon' is really starting to look the part. This weeks task was to do something about the terrible old interior. It is getting so close to being finished. I love it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Troubleshooter Posted 11September, 2018 Report Share Posted 11September, 2018 Thought the rims may have looked better silver but you nailed it choosing the blue, coupled with the whitewalls they suit the fun personality of little Johnny beetle. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tazzieman Posted 11September, 2018 Report Share Posted 11September, 2018 Glad to see you kept the original "horsehair" seat pads. Can't have Brazilian horses careering about the paddocks in these pc times Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MFX Posted 11September, 2018 Author Report Share Posted 11September, 2018 1 hour ago, tazzieman said: Glad to see you kept the original "horsehair" seat pads. Can't have Brazilian horses careering about the paddocks in these pc times More due to that fact that I am too tight to replace what was there Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tazzieman Posted 11September, 2018 Report Share Posted 11September, 2018 8 minutes ago, MFX said: More due to that fact that I am too tight to replace what was there The next purist will thank you. Reminds me of the Leunig cartoon with a punk couple levering off the boards of a tabletop. "Wow , genuine 50s laminex - with silver flecks!" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Raven Posted 12September, 2018 Report Share Posted 12September, 2018 That looks bloody awesome Jeff ..............That car is a keeper well done . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MFX Posted 18September, 2018 Author Report Share Posted 18September, 2018 This week I try to button up a bunch of little things on John Lemon. 1 out of 4 will have to do. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MFX Posted 26September, 2018 Author Report Share Posted 26September, 2018 This week I fix the fuel pressure but I am still suffering with warm start issues. I also install the new gear bushing which has transformed the shifting. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OnSafari Posted 27September, 2018 Report Share Posted 27September, 2018 Jeff, check the wire between your fuel sender and gauge for high(er) resistance (I assume the original wiring may be brittle etc), and alternatively bypass with a new wire to see if that improves your fuel gauge reading. Wouldn't hurt to double check earthing locations too. I, as electricity is lazy and will take the path of least resistance! Cheers Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AdRock Posted 27September, 2018 Report Share Posted 27September, 2018 Does your carby have a choke? On my kombi, if I warm start, sometimes I need to reset the chokes. I believe pushing your foot flat to the floor should reset the choke. The choke is also adjustable - when it's warmed up, it should be pointing straight up and down... when starting from cold, it should be 'just' closed. Here's some good pages that I've used:https://www.wikihow.com/Adjust-the-Automatic-Choke-on-an-Aircooled-Volkswagen-(VW)-Beetle http://www.vw-resource.com/automatic_choke.html#adjust Not sure if you've checked this already, but after you drive it and it's warmed up, if you open the petrol cap, is there any sound of air hissing? If none of the above, I'm stumped. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GTP911 Posted 28September, 2018 Report Share Posted 28September, 2018 Looks good Jeff, you just need to paint the underside of the engine lid (and put on some wider rims (no slots) with hub caps). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MFX Posted 28September, 2018 Author Report Share Posted 28September, 2018 I think I have worked out that it is the needle and seat in the carb is not sealing properly and the fuel is pushing past it. I will pull it apart next week and see if I can sort it. 49 minutes ago, Windsor289 said: Looks good Jeff, you just need to paint the underside of the engine lid (and put on some wider rims (no slots) with hub caps). Haha, not for this one. If it had some power then absolutely, but wider wheels on the stock power plant is just a little bit of overkill Oh, and yes I do need to paint the underside of the engine lid Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coastr Posted 28September, 2018 Report Share Posted 28September, 2018 How much is a new carbie? Or a recon? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
firstone Posted 28September, 2018 Report Share Posted 28September, 2018 I know naaaaaasing. ? Is there an insulation block between the carby and it's mount. Different application I know but the old stromberg had no block as std equipment and the fuel would get hot whilst sitting after a drive and was harder to ignite according to an old fella. True? I don't know, but I put one on it and it was much easier to start. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Airhead Posted 28September, 2018 Report Share Posted 28September, 2018 1 hour ago, firstone said: Is there an insulation block between the carby and it's mount. Different application I know but the old stromberg had no block as std equipment and the fuel would get hot whilst sitting after a drive and was harder to ignite according to an old fella. True? I don't know, but I put one on it and it was much easier to start. Sometimes us old fellas know more than the young fellas. ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MFX Posted 28September, 2018 Author Report Share Posted 28September, 2018 I think I have found the source of the problem. I am pretty sure (still need to confirm) that the needle and seat are not sealing properly. I will pull it apart on monday and see if I can fix it up. I know nothing about carbies, as this is the first one I have ever played with. I need to find out the brand of carb I have an see if I can get a rebuild kit for it, although a whole new carb is only about $120 or so. If the needle and seat are not sealing properly, could I use some fine lapping compound and match the needle and seat similarly to valves? I know this is not ideal, but it may work as a temporary fix. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zelrik911 Posted 28September, 2018 Report Share Posted 28September, 2018 Is it a Solex carby? Then this kit is what you want: Simple job to take the top off the carb - check that the float is good, take the N&S valve out & blow into it - test it by pushing in the button. The N&S valve is the same design for all these Solex carbs, maybe yours has a wrong spec from a Renault or Peugeot??? I got a bit worried when I saw you pouring too much petrol into the carbi. One of my mates (Bernard - a firey) set fire to himself doing it that way. Just use one of these instead, much more delicate : Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
firstone Posted 28September, 2018 Report Share Posted 28September, 2018 I have done a few carbys. Stromberg, Holley, Solex, etc. Kit and a clean seemed like that's all I need. Years later I learned. Your butterfly shaft will be worn and or it's seat leaking air giving you the wrong air/fuel mix on startup. A NEW carb at 120 bucks... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coastr Posted 28September, 2018 Report Share Posted 28September, 2018 1 hour ago, firstone said: I have done a few carbys. Stromberg, Holley, Solex, etc. Kit and a clean seemed like that's all I need. Years later I learned. Your butterfly shaft will be worn and or it's seat leaking air giving you the wrong air/fuel mix on startup. A NEW carb at 120 bucks... This. For $120 it’s not even a conversation we should be having. I bet your fancy whitewall things cost more than that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MFX Posted 28September, 2018 Author Report Share Posted 28September, 2018 Actually the white walls cost less It is definitely not the money for the new carb, I would prefer to actually learn something, than just bolt on a new one and be done. I will pull it apart on Monday and see what we have. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
firstone Posted 29September, 2018 Report Share Posted 29September, 2018 You do have to have a go hey? I do the same. You may as well know, I've never had a carby down entirely that didn't have water induced corrosion within the internal channels. Some of these channels sealed after production. I know there were people reconditioning them years ago, that is cleaning the internals of the main block. If anyone can do it you will. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MFX Posted 2October, 2018 Author Report Share Posted 2October, 2018 This week I keep attacking my warm start issues by stripping and cleaning up the carb, and then finish some paint correction. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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