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LeeM

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Best to use the automotive ones. They are a bit thicker than the normal stuff but that helps the tape take up minor differences in shape between panel and badge. 3m have a product.

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3M foam tape (black).  I stuck my engine lid badge on 8 years ago and after daily use in all weather, car washes etc it's still rock solid.

yeah that's the go. I think it's PU, so won't deteriorate. Has a green backing strip and comes in 1/2", 3/4" & 1" wide from memory. It'll stick that proverbial shit to it's mating blanket like there's no tomorrow.

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yeah that's the go. I think it's PU, so won't deteriorate. Has a green backing strip and comes in 1/2", 3/4" & 1" wide from memory. It'll stick that proverbial shit to it's mating blanket like there's no tomorrow.

yep, green backing film on one side, red on the other.  I got an a4 sized sheet of it so I could cut the full outline of the badge.   Guides taped onto the panel helped align it. You only get one shot. 

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IMO do not even think about sticking the letters on the lid, I thought you were joking when you suggested it.

The letters are made with sturdy pins for a reason.

If it was a $1500 Hyundai it might be fair enough, but even then I would advise against fixing heavy die cast letters on a surface that gets very hot using double sided tape.

Takes about 15 mins to take a template of hole positions from a pre drilled lid and you will have a professional job that you can be proud of.

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If it was a $1500 Hyundai it might be fair enough, but even then I would advise against fixing heavy die cast letters on a surface that gets very hot using double sided tape.

Sorry, but you really do sound a bit behind the times. The sort of double sides tapes being talked about are designed to far more hostile environments that an engine lid. Even the "weakest" VHB tape is good for long term use at just under 100 degrees C. They use it to build vehicles (usually large trucks and buses) and it is ideal for anywhere you would use a screw, bolt or similar fastening, up to its designed maximum load which varies depending on exactly which version you use. We used to use it to stick 500kg glazing units into buildings.

Lee

It comes in various thicknesses, up to about 3mm and in different colours. I am not sure what I would recommend, but I suspect that you do't want 3mm!

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  You both have valid points.

 I had read up a bit before you had first posted Chris, and I am reassessing it. I now have the measurements for the italic 912 badge placement which is not correct for the year (should be in the centre at the top), and the one piece smaller Porsche badge from a 65 model 911. After discussion with the new owner who has given me free reign, I think it looks better than the individual lettering and centre 912 badge

 Why stick them on? Mainly because I'm a chicken and don't want to stuff it up by drilling holes, yet also incase the new owner doesn't like the style of both badges and they are able to be removed and not have to fix and paint the decklid again. Also for the possibility of damage to the decklid  by thieving little twerps who prize a Porsche badge

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IMO do not even think about sticking the letters on the lid, I thought you were joking when you suggested it.

The letters are made with sturdy pins for a reason.

If it was a $1500 Hyundai it might be fair enough, but even then I would advise against fixing heavy die cast letters on a surface that gets very hot using double sided tape.

Takes about 15 mins to take a template of hole positions from a pre drilled lid and you will have a professional job that you can be proud of.

Fair argument @9er  I debated how to attach my badge.  While pins are the period correct fitment, I decided on a modern approach.  Tape was chosen as I didn't want to drill into a clean, painted panel and risk starting corrosion.   Also, I was considering fitting a wing at some later stage which would mean a different badge location. Tape allows relocation without the need to weld and repaint any holes.

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 Why stick them on? Mainly because I'm a chicken and don't want to stuff it up by drilling holes, yet also incase the new owner doesn't like the style of both badges and they are able to be removed and not have to fix and paint the decklid again.

Hey Lee why not just give the badges to the new owner with the tape and his choice what to do... new owners love doing little things to their cars and even if he's not handy, a shop could do what he wants for minimal $$$$

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  He asked me to do a few things for him, which I have done, yet having parts suppliers muck me around no end by saying parts are in stock, I pay for them, then get an email saying they're on a 4 week back order, I can't complete the little jobs. 

 Its very annoying having to rely on other people, as the owner and is understandably frustrated, the 912 is in my shed, and the 911 is in my driveway under some tarps every night, so my van is on the grass which is buggered now. It needs to go soon!

  

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 Not repairs, additions. 

  I had left off the decklid badges and sill trims and welded up the holes for my personal taste when building the car, yet the buyer wanted them fitted, and the car registered at an additional cost to him. Due to a lot of interstate and overseas interest when the car was for sale, it wasn't worth it financially for me in getting it inspected and registered in SA if someone from Victoria or NSW was going to buy it.

 Yes he is very patient, unlike myself! 

 I've taken 9er's advice and drilled the holes to fit the 912 badge, and will do the same when the Porsche badge gets here......eventually!

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