MFX Posted 11July, 2015 Report Share Posted 11July, 2015 Hey guys. As some of you may have seen, in the "what's for sale" thread, I jumped on a great bargain '74 911. The rego said it was a '76 but inspection of the vin showed it to be a '74.Onto the car itself it has a 2.7 with pulled head studs so it doesn't run and it has a several areas where the rust is showing its ugly head. The car is a U.S. Import which has been converted and it already has small fibre glass carerra flares so I don't feel bad about the plans I have to make it a back date ST type hot rod, which I plan to use a a track/targa car. My dilemma now is do I rebuild the 2.7 or do I just swap it out for a newer donk? Does anyone know how swapping out the engine with newer goes with entering it into targa events etc? Also if I do swap out the engine, where can I source one and at what price? I am seriously considering keeper my eyes open for a cheap convertible to strip out the drive train and part or what I don't need. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
clutch-monkey Posted 11July, 2015 Report Share Posted 11July, 2015 rebuild 2.7, attach low boost turbo?inspiration from this thread: http://forums.pelicanparts.com/911-930-turbo-super-charging-forum/802120-2-8-turbo-engine-build.html Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MFX Posted 11July, 2015 Author Report Share Posted 11July, 2015 That is a cool thread. I will have to go through the whole thing when I get some time. My thoughts are to keep it naturally aspirated as I am not going for the most powerful thing I can build, more getting a car that handles and stops like a gem, and is reliable. I would prefer to out drive the competition rather than just out power them ?I would like to rebuild the engine myself as a project, it is more about the reliability of the 2.7 once it has case savers in. Anyone had a 2.7 that has given them years of trouble fee driving? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LeeM Posted 11July, 2015 Report Share Posted 11July, 2015 Looks great mate. Love the idea of an ST repI'd go the rebuild, as you know it's been done. That Cayman though. Slurp! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
clutch-monkey Posted 11July, 2015 Report Share Posted 11July, 2015 That is a cool thread. I will have to go through the whole thing when I get some time. My thoughts are to keep it naturally aspirated as I am not going for the most powerful thing I can build, more getting a car that handles and stops like a gem, and is reliable. I would prefer to out drive the competition rather than just out power them ?I would like to rebuild the engine myself as a project, it is more about the reliability of the 2.7 once it has case savers in. Anyone had a 2.7 that has given them years of trouble fee driving? in that case just rebuilt it with some RS spec bits! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KBGr4 Posted 11July, 2015 Report Share Posted 11July, 2015 Look for a later model motor as each evolution improved on the previous. A good starting point from my experience would be a 3.2 which itself is pretty strong and upgrades to 3.4 with a change of P&C's, add some ARP (or similar) rod bolts and whatever else your budget allows and you have a nice flexible motor safe to 7,000 rpm. Targa Australia events have starter classes like Thoroughbred or Sports that allow you to enter in pretty much your everyday road car if you want. There is a speed restriction of maximum 130 KPH in those classes but again its a starter class that allows you to see what its like from the inside of the event without having to have the full FIA weld in roll cage and seats etc. I ran last year at Targa High Country and have entered again this year. I found that its great fun and throughout the whole event the maximum speed rule really doesn't detract from the experience as the majority of the course is quite tight and there are really only about 4 long straights in the whole event. Good luck with the project they all tend to take on a life of their own. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spannerhead Posted 11July, 2015 Report Share Posted 11July, 2015 Hello MFXNice project, I'm also keen to build a semi track/tassi car. I have my eyes on early SC 3l that has carbs, the injection was dumped for reasons unknown. For a coup the price is good and I feel OK about bastardizing it. Look forward to your progress. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MFX Posted 11July, 2015 Author Report Share Posted 11July, 2015 Look for a later model motor as each evolution improved on the previous. A good starting point from my experience would be a 3.2 which itself is pretty strong and upgrades to 3.4 with a change of P&C's, add some ARP (or similar) rod bolts and whatever else your budget allows and you have a nice flexible motor safe to 7,000 rpm. Targa Australia events have starter classes like Thoroughbred or Sports that allow you to enter in pretty much your everyday road car if you want. There is a speed restriction of maximum 130 KPH in those classes but again its a starter class that allows you to see what its like from the inside of the event without having to have the full FIA weld in roll cage and seats etc. I ran last year at Targa High Country and have entered again this year. I found that its great fun and throughout the whole event the maximum speed rule really doesn't detract from the experience as the majority of the course is quite tight and there are really only about 4 long straights in the whole event. Good luck with the project they all tend to take on a life of their own. That is the sort of events I was thinking. I am keen on doing the classic Adelaide as I grew up in the Adelaide hills watching it. I am still torn on the engine front as it comes down to the cost and availability (availability is the big one). I still have to work out roughly what it will cost to rebuild the engine myself, but I am assuming it will cost me at least $10k if I don't have to replace everything. Where as if I can find a running 3.2 for example, I won't actually know how good it is, and it would probably cost me around the same as the rebuild. I think I am leaning to the rebuild. Make sure it is done right. Hello MFXNice project, I'm also keen to build a semi track/tassi car. I have my eyes on early SC 3l that has carbs, the injection was dumped for reasons unknown. For a coup the price is good and I feel OK about bastardizing it. Look forward to your progress.Your project sounds good. The good thing about these non original cars is that you can play with them and actually use them the way they were intended. With the values of originals going up so much people are wrapping them in cotton wool. It is quite sad really. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MFX Posted 11July, 2015 Author Report Share Posted 11July, 2015 I quickly got out a scraper today and flicked off the lifting sections of bog and paint. It has obviously had some bodgy repairs in the past and it was all lifting. The roof section looks like it was covering up a dent and the passenger rear quarter looks like it has been hit at some stage and the have welded in a new rear section. The rust at this stage does seem to be just on the surface, it doesn't have holes through so it shouldn't be too bad a fix. What can you expect for a $15k coupe. The interior actually doesn't look too bad. Although the windows are manual ( and need some adjusting) there are a pair of switches between the seats which look like they are for electric windows so I will have to sort that out. The PO told me that the steering wheel is a rare factory option AMG steering wheel. I did some searches and as I suspected it is from an early AMG Merc. But maybe I can sell it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chris_f Posted 12July, 2015 Report Share Posted 12July, 2015 Good luck with the build, I really like what you have planned for the car.. It was a score at that price Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
turboT Posted 12July, 2015 Report Share Posted 12July, 2015 Jesus - that looks scary. If this has happened on the roof you have to be a little worried about the rest...You could just do a 'Monkey Garage' and clear coat the lot Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Harvs11 Posted 12July, 2015 Report Share Posted 12July, 2015 Strip the filler and you've got an instant light weight 911. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MFX Posted 12July, 2015 Author Report Share Posted 12July, 2015 Jesus - that looks scary. If this has happened on the roof you have to be a little worried about the rest...You could just do a 'Monkey Garage' and clear coat the lot It looks a lot worse than it is (at least from my initial inspections). The rust is only on the surface, it doesn't have holes right through. Basically it has been repaired badly and then left outside for 10 years on a concrete pad. The underside actually looks quite good. The rust is mostly contained to those 2 big patches in the photos, but that is the extent. I made a living paint cars and Harley's for 13 years (well airbrushing them at least) so I can repair and respray the whole car myself, so it shouldn't be to bad an exercise. I will clean it all up and treat the rust. Most of the panels are being replaced with light weight fibreglass ones any way, so it should be pretty good when it is finished. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
itsujack Posted 12July, 2015 Report Share Posted 12July, 2015 It looks a lot worse than it is (at least from my initial inspections). The rust is only on the surface, it doesn't have holes right through. Basically it has been repaired badly and then left outside for 10 years on a concrete pad. The underside actually looks quite good. The rust is mostly contained to those 2 big patches in the photos, but that is the extent. I made a living paint cars and Harley's for 13 years (well airbrushing them at least) so I can repair and respray the whole car myself, so it shouldn't be to bad an exercise. I will clean it all up and treat the rust. Most of the panels are being replaced with light weight fibreglass ones any way, so it should be pretty good when it is finished. This is great, congratulations for taking the plunge. Sounds like with your skills you'll have this bad boy tamed in no time. What's your timeframe for completion? If I was doing this would be a good 12 months... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MFX Posted 12July, 2015 Author Report Share Posted 12July, 2015 This is great, congratulations for taking the plunge. Sounds like with your skills you'll have this bad boy tamed in no time. What's your timeframe for completion? If I was doing this would be a good 12 months...Well I am doing some extensions on the house at the moment so that is my priority (keep the boss happy). Then I can get stuck into it. I am a firie so I get a fair amount of time off, so I still think it will still probably be about 12 months, but that will be with me doing everything from the body work and paint, to rebuilding the engine. So we will see how it goes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
poli84 Posted 12July, 2015 Report Share Posted 12July, 2015 Sounds like a great project, best of luck.I'm looking forward to watching it progress, certainly something I'd love to do myself (like most others here). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Russ Posted 12July, 2015 Report Share Posted 12July, 2015 have you driven a 2.7 in comparison to the 3.0 and 3.2? there's something different about the way they rev and deliver poweri'd vote for making a 'hi-po' 2.7 but keep the car looking impact bumper stock (along the lines of the 2.7 carrera without the decals and ducktail) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Airhead Posted 13July, 2015 Report Share Posted 13July, 2015 Strip the filler and you've got an instant light weight 911. Don't paint it and go the rat look. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
edgy Posted 13July, 2015 Report Share Posted 13July, 2015 Thats Murica and their body repair methods for you!! No swiss cheese is a good sign, just get the whole thing media blasted and epoxy coated, it is worth every cent... paint stripping ain't fun. I might be interested in the MB wheel if your off loading it, would suit my 90's G wagen pretty well I think. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
09ELF Posted 13July, 2015 Report Share Posted 13July, 2015 Got yourself a bargain.Perfect platform for a rat rod.. especially if u can do paiting yourself. Looking forward to your updates Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MFX Posted 13July, 2015 Author Report Share Posted 13July, 2015 have you driven a 2.7 in comparison to the 3.0 and 3.2? there's something different about the way they rev and deliver poweri'd vote for making a 'hi-po' 2.7 but keep the car looking impact bumper stock (along the lines of the 2.7 carrera without the decals and ducktail)I haven't actually. To be honest besides being a passenger in an old cab' about 10 years ago this is the first time I sat in one. I am thinking I will rebuild the 2.7 now. I have ordered the engine rebuild book from Pelican and I am keen to do a few RS touches to get the most out of it, but I haven't looked into it in much detail as yet. As for the body, I have always loved the turbo guards. That has always been what a 911 is to me. So the plan is for a ST/RSR type look with a duck tail. You can't really blame me, I used to own a body kit company, and I am the type of guy who thinks if you are going to have a VL Commodore, it would have to be a Walkinshaw Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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