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'77 911 Steel widebody coupe. 3ltr turbo EFI.


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Ok so here are the details in case you missed the chat in my thread. The car has come up that I wanted to buy years ago that I missed out on. I'm going to take another swing at it but in order to do so I need to sell my old war horse (and a kidney) to be in the running. Anyway it will be hard to let her go but I know I'll be kicking myself later if I don't give it a shot.

So details on my car and things you should consider. First of all if your a purist look away now and click back as fast as you can on the top left of your screen. There is nothing for you here.

 

Ok now we got rid of those guys lets start with the fun. The body shell is a German delivered left hand drive GP white sun roof delete coupe with a steel wide body. The front and rear bars I'm going to call RUF style as I can not say for sure that they are real RUF bars. They are very very light. As in I can pick the rear up with 2 fingers light. The 935 mirrors are small but they do work quite well. The 964 Cobalt Blue paint while it photographs well is not much chop and the car could do with a re-spray, The body is very straight and clearly has zero rust but it's quite clear whom ever painted the Blue over the G.P white did a rubbish job. You should factor this into how you think about the car. For me I spent more time on how the car drives than how it looks. I'd planned a re-spray in Mid 2014 but was not going to rush into it. I've tried to be quite crittical here as I'm more than happy to give you my honest thoughts on the car so you know exactly what you are up for.

Now the fun bit the engine and driveline. The 3ltr motor is ~12,000klms old ( I have recipets ) and out of a 1982 SC. I've done a compression test in the last month and it comes up 150psi across all 6 cylinders with less than 1 psi differance between them. Rockers have been checked and adjusted in the last 100klms.

Turbo lower rocker covers and powered coated black upper covers.

Upgraded hydraulic cam chain tensioners.

3.2ltr intake manifold with BF XR6 turbo injectors. These are going to be well under max duty cycle to at least 400rwhp.

The turbo is a Kando dynamics TDO6SE with 3" V band hot side and anti surge comp housing. Don't be put off by the odd name they are a very good quality turbo. I bought it under advice from 2 Garret dealers.. If you need more tech specs I'm happy to tell you.

300mmx300mmx76mm intercooler.

Quiet unoffensive BOV.

3" intercooler pipes.

50mm adjustable wastegate with 50mm dump pipe to the back of the car.

Stainless steel headers with heat. Unsure of exact brand but they flow very well and have no problem building boost by 2,500rpm.

3" pipe off the back of the turbo into a 3" muffler all the way out the car. The car has a very nice deep tone to it and is not overly loud under 3,500rpm. So you can potter around under the radar.

915 Gearbox with fresh oil. Shifts quite well but like all 915's it requires some skill to use well. It's a little hard to get it into 1st gear while rolling but that's just a 915 thing.

Rebuilt shift coupleing and new shift rod bushes.

Wevo "Tall" billet shifter in Black. This is about the best shifter money can buy and makes a huge change to how the shift in the car feels. It also hold the lever in the 3rd/4th plain so it's easy to know where the next gear is. Also has a great easy to feel reverse lockout pin so no clipping other gears while getting out of 5th.

Sachs heavy duty clutch with 12,000klm on it.

New starter motor.

RSR engine mount bar

Tarret billet rear mounts and new sport gearbox mounts.

RSR alt fan strap.

D-Zug 935 126mm/276g billet crank pulley

NGK BPR6ES sparkplugs.

Fresh HPR30 oil and filter.

All engine oil lines have been converted to AN fittings and braided lines including the external thermostat.

Wet brass geared oil scavange pump with AN fittings and one way flow check valve to keep the gears wet. The pump is triggered via an oil pressure switch in the turbo feed line so while ever there is pressure in the line it will keep running and is on it's own power circuit with fues and relay

EFI and fuel system.

Haltech Sprint series ECU with duel O2 controller and electronic boost control. The car has a base tune and cold start done and is running on auto tune right now. It still has to have the full power tune. My tuner has not locked the ECU so you can get this done anywhere. I would how ever very much recomend my guy Dale from Castle Hill Performance. Should you want to data log track days and stuff it's just a matter of plugging in a lap top. The Haltech user interface is very easy to use and it very handy for keeping an eye on things.

Custom made EFI loom with the ECU now mounted inside the car.

6 LS2 coils.

Clewett engineering 8mm crank angle sensor.

Clewett engineering 60-2 crank trigger wheel.

Clewett engineering billet sensor mount.

TurboKraft throttle position sensor.

Turbokraft cylinder head sensor.

Custom made high performance 8mm noise supressed spark plug leads.

Bosch motorsport 044 main fuel pump with power feed by 8 gauge cable.

Bendix lift pump.

2ltr swirl pot.

Aeromotive boost referenced fuel reg with gauge.

-6 AN Black lightweight braided line though the whole car with Red twill in the return line so its easy to tell the return from the feed line.

Only quality AN fittings used on the fuel (and oil) sytem. Total spend on AN fittings and line is something I don't like to tell my wife about..

Other stuff.

6 point Matter rollcage. This is out of a factory 964 RS and has plates added to the base to make it suitable for a G series car. I also did this so if you want to take it out of the car it's just a matter of cutting the bead of weld on the extra plate and out it comes. I'm tricky like that.

HRE 961Rc centre lock wheels with locking nut and clips. 225's on the front and 265's on the back all in very good condition.

Black leather power seats.

Momo wheel with quick release hub.

Black carpet.

Radio delete plate.

6 point drivers harness. 4 point passanger harness and normal seat belt.

Wevo rear sway bar mounts. The factory mounts are quite weak but these things are bomb proof.

 

There are prolly 11ty other things I've not listed but I'll add them as I think of them.

This car is a huge amount of fun to drive. The turbo is very much lag free and nothing like the turbo cars of old. I spent months looking at turbo compressor maps for something that would drive like the car still had Weber's on it but with a lot more punch and it's exactly what I've acheived. The car makes good power off idle and feels like a strong 3ltr SC motor till 2,800rpm then it starts to build solid boost till 3,800RPM when it's at the full .8 of a bar and will hold that till 6,500rpm. With the light weight nature of the car it makes for a very quick car to say the least.

I consider my car to be something you can enjoy to drive and have as a bit of a toy in the shed to tinker with and update as you see fit. That being said I do all my own work and if I can't do it myself I'll get someone who can and stand over their shoulder while I learn how to do what it is they are doing for me.

Keep in mind it's a 1977 model car and you are going to have to work on it at some point in time be it a year from now or a week. I don't want to put you off and there is nothing at all wrong with the car but this should serve as a reality check. Could you drive it to work every day? Sure. Would you drive it to work every day? Maybe. Would I have it as my only car. Probably not. How are you going to do fun jobs in the shed like a brake upgrade if you need to drive it to work on Monday?

While it's a very very easy car to learn how to do stuff it's worth talking about. I've kept everything on the car very simple and easy to work on and it's honestly no more complex than a mid 80's car of any other kind. Are there little things I'd like to tidy up and adjust? Yep. Do they need doing now? Nope. Can you do them in your shed with simple tools and some basic skills? Yep sure can.

Lets think of it this way, If the thought of changing your own oil terrifies you it's probably not the car for you. If the thought of learning how to change your oil excites you. Perfect.

 

If you live semi local I'd be more than happy to help do anything you wanted to get done on the car and help you along your way. If you live in another state etc I'd also be more than willing to talk you though how to do stuff or answer qustions you might have.

 

Price $32,000ono.

P.M me or..

Phone Martin.

Oh four two nine 862534

 

9BDFC240-964A-4589-9446-B78A74D1A629-218

 

IMG_1487_zpsf38f39b5.jpg

 

IMG_1652_zpsa47a22ef.jpg

 

BF3C526D-D2EA-4590-8454-93A3EBA9B73E-625

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Yeah I'll be honest it's was pretty hard to write the ad but at the same time I do really want the other car. After I sell my car I still need to get together another 20k but that won't be too hard as the other car is also the same car my wife really wanted me to buy..

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Wow........Just realised what was going on.

I'm certain that whoever buys this car will understand the enigma that surrounds it!

But more importantly Martin, unless I have missed it, you have been a little vague as to the marque of your future chariot.

Care to elaborate?

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But more importantly Martin, unless I have missed it, you have been a little vague as to the marque of your future chariot.

Care to elaborate?

I'll start a new thread if I end up with the other car.

I'd love to see another person from this site buy my car and keep the build going though to be frank if I'm lazy and don't advertise it properly I'd doubt I'll sell it lol.

I am assuming/hoping it's going to be another P-car.

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