Rob Posted 8June, 2018 Report Share Posted 8June, 2018 34 minutes ago, bear924 said: I had a slow start issue on my 996.1 gt3. Decided to replace the starter only and now car turns over much better. Would suggest anyone with start issue to check battery, check power distribution cable (positive from battery to firewall entry) for corrosion (mine had none).. then replace starter. I'd only replace the cable if problem persisted after that point or cable connectors were loose. Bear? What haven't you been telling us? bear924 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Raven Posted 18July, 2018 Report Share Posted 18July, 2018 some thread revival ....................I got a new starter and a new starter alt cable ,,,so I am going to spend the day tomorrow doing the removal and replacement of both,,, fingers crossed all goes well .. Fraz and Francois 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Francois Posted 18July, 2018 Author Report Share Posted 18July, 2018 You can do it - just be patient and be ready if you need a second day. As the power-steering reservoir needs to come off, you may need to top it up prior to restarting the car (unless you carefully empty it with a syringe before removing it and refill once replaced). Operating the power-steering pump empty will damage it! Best of luck mate! Raven 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Raven Posted 19July, 2018 Report Share Posted 19July, 2018 Had my self a very productive day today quite a lot to remove , but got every thing removed with out any real issues ..........reinstalled the new start motor and the new starter alt cable along with AC ,,, That rear AC bolt is a pain in the back side ,,,,,will finish the rest of tomorrow fingers cross all ends well ............☀️ firstone, GTP911 and Francois 2 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Francois Posted 19July, 2018 Author Report Share Posted 19July, 2018 Sounds good! Hold on tight for the first ignition! Raven 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Raven Posted 19July, 2018 Report Share Posted 19July, 2018 thought I would call it a day after the AC rear bolt had to use my iphone to see were it was and make sure the E socket was seated correctly on the bolt ,,very time consuming that rear bolt ,,,,,I remember you said the Alternator was a nightmare but mine came out pretty easy ............I downloaded a really detailed PDF from Rennlist that covers every little detail in depth and explains methods of removal and install of each component ,,If any one wants a copy Pm me and I can email it to you ,,,it was a big help .. The pdf is 5.05 mb slknv 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Raven Posted 20July, 2018 Report Share Posted 20July, 2018 Just came back from a spirited drive ......and the change has made a huge difference ,,,as I posted earlier on in this thread my car never really suffered from this issue badly ,it did always start ,,,,,,but what a difference this has mad to the cranking speed ,,,I would say it is almost double what I had ,,,,,before the car would crank about 4 or 5 times before she fired up ,,know it is one or two very quick cranks an its alive ,,,,,,,,,,,turn it off do it again and again no issue ,,,very happy with the result and well worth the effort ,,,I think I invested around 12 hour in this but I must say I was really taking my time being OCD about every thing ,,,,,as I mentioned above if anyone wants that Pdf file and it is a real big help just contact me ......off to do some more driving .... StevepGT3, 9r, slknv and 3 others 6 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GTP911 Posted 20July, 2018 Report Share Posted 20July, 2018 37 minutes ago, Raven said: Just came back from a spirited drive ......and the change has made a huge difference ,,,as I posted earlier on in this thread my car never really suffered from this issue badly ,it did always start ,,,,,,but what a difference this has mad to the cranking speed ,,,I would say it is almost double what I had ,,,,,before the car would crank about 4 or 5 times before she fired up ,,know it is one or two very quick cranks an its alive ,,,,,,,,,,,turn it off do it again and again no issue ,,,very happy with the result and well worth the effort ,,,I think I invested around 12 hour in this but I must say I was really taking my time being OCD about every thing ,,,,,as I mentioned above if anyone wants that Pdf file and it is a real big help just contact me ......off to do some more driving .... How long would your old Torana's starter motor taken to change? ? Nevertheless pleased it was worth the effort on the shakedown drive. Raven 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zelrik911 Posted 20July, 2018 Report Share Posted 20July, 2018 1 hour ago, Windsor289 said: How long would your old Torana's starter motor taken to change? ? Nevertheless pleased it was worth the effort on the shakedown drive. How about all those new cars that turn the engine off instead of idleling (?) in traffic and then start again - all to save an eyedropper of petrol. Utter madness!!! A Torana's starter motor is easy to change - but a Peugeot 505 GTI ??? 1st - lower the front end & engine & g/box away from the body and then, blah blah blah. Perfect training for the easier 997 job listed above. Seriously - well done Raven & kudos for picking a hard first job as an apprentice mechanic. Good to know it can be done at home, if I ever need to do it. Raven and GTP911 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Raven Posted 20July, 2018 Report Share Posted 20July, 2018 To change a starter on my old Torana Hour tops ,,,yep a lot easier than the 997 ....Like any of these jobs the first time is always a learning curve and half the drama is working out how the components come out and go back in again ,,,eg the technique,, which way to pull this or turn this to get it in or out ,,,if you had to do it a second time ,the previous experience always helps .... If you had a dealer do this ,,,it would naturally cost a lot just due to the hours involved ...I think they would charge at least 8 hrs for this job.. For anyone who wants to do the change ,,just get the correct tools listed in this thread earlier and allow yourself 2 days to just take your time and not stress about it and be patient ... It really makes a big difference and the starting of the car is now like it been hanging around Lance Armstrong 9r and Francois 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
9r Posted 20July, 2018 Report Share Posted 20July, 2018 4 minutes ago, Raven said: To change a starter on my old Torana Hour tops ,,,yep a lot easier than the 997 .... And that included having a couple of cold stubbies ? Raven 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Francois Posted 20July, 2018 Author Report Share Posted 20July, 2018 Double satisfaction: - having done it yourself - much faster and authoritative cranking Well done!! Really glad that it worked out well for you. Raven 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IXLR8 Posted 25April, 2021 Report Share Posted 25April, 2021 On 06/09/2017 at 07:26, Francois said: Hi all, Typical consequences are a slow crank getting worse when hot. According to what I read, the culprit is the cable harness connecting the battery to the alternator and starter motor. Any one experience this problem? Thanks! I know this is an old post, but I did some work on a friend's 997 and he had the same problem. It would start normally when cold (the first start of the day), but when the engine was fully warmed up after a long drive, the starter would turn over very slowly or not start at all. In his case, the cable was not the problem, but he had bought a new cable based on recommendations from the Rennlist forum. Don't assume anything till you diagnose it, I say. I noted the crimps on the original cable ends were fine, but he had bought it, so I installed it. A bit of a job to install. Sure enough, nothing changed. It still cranked “slow”. By the way, I performed a load test on the battery; it was fine. Also the proper way to diagnose this is to look for a voltage drop from the source (the battery) to the load (the starter) which should be a maximum of 0.5V in a 12V system, but since he had bought the cable, he wanted it installed. Since I already had the back of the engine out and reinstalled it for the cable install, I let them take it all apart again when I said it must be the starter. They installed a new starter and while they were doing so, I disassembled the old starter and this is what I found. Just look at the commutators. I later rebuilt the starter and installed a new brush plate assembly. Runs like new and he now has a spare. Porsche 997 Starter Rebuild On 06/09/2017 at 07:26, Francois said: Hi all, My battery voltage upon idle is approx 13.7V, which seems to be low - any opinions here? What is your battery voltage on idle? Thanks! Depends what the ambient temperature is. Alternators are temperature compensated. On newer cars, the ECU controls the charging system. Hot = lower charge voltages. Cold = higher charge voltages. And the charge end voltage depends on the type of battery, FLA, AGM or GEL. When I got my 991, I was alarmed when I saw 14.9V-15.0V on the Multi-Information-Display. At the time I did not know the factory installed battery is an AGM and at a temperature of 6C (welcome to Canada), that is fine. Here are two charts (AGM and GEL) from East Penn Battery. On a regular FLA battery, 14.4V @ 25C or 77F. 911CSR and JWM 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
micknine01 Posted 7June, 2023 Report Share Posted 7June, 2023 Got this issue on my 996 GT3 and I’m hoping someone can explain to me why the starter could still be the culprit. So far I have tested the battery, it doesn’t drop below 10.3v when cranking, so assuming all good. Next I replaced the Y cable, (yay fun job) and this made no difference. Next I have stripped the starter, everything looks like new, brushes were free and it runs nicely on the bench.. What am I missing? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
on_booost Posted 7June, 2023 Report Share Posted 7June, 2023 Not sure if its the same on the 996... BUT i had an issue with my 997 TT. There was corrosion (Garage Queen - only 46K) on a terminal that went thru the firewall..... Was intermittent - thought it was battery, then the key/ignition switch, then the cable ..... Ended up cleaning the terminal - and started first go.... It runs from the +ve cable and sits on a terminal that goes through the firewall near the battery. I'll find a link..... Simon. Edit - from post #101 https://rennlist.com/forums/997-forum/986396-997-1-c2s-hot-start-slow-crank-finally-resolved-7.html micknine01 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
micknine01 Posted 7June, 2023 Report Share Posted 7June, 2023 40 minutes ago, on_booost said: Not sure if its the same on the 996... BUT i had an issue with my 997 TT. There was corrosion (Garage Queen - only 46K) on a terminal that went thru the firewall..... Was intermittent - through it was battery, then the key/ignition switch then the cable ..... Ended up cleaning it and stated first go.... It runs from the +ve cable and sits on e terminal that goes thought e formal near the battery. I'll find a link..... Simon. Edit - from post #101 https://rennlist.com/forums/997-forum/986396-997-1-c2s-hot-start-slow-crank-finally-resolved-7.html Thanks Simon, I’ll have a look at this and see if the 996 is the same. Definitely seems more logical than the starter at this point Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
st3ve Posted 7June, 2023 Report Share Posted 7June, 2023 Just as another data point, I had a slow crank when hot on my 2004 996 and I was very surprised to find a new battery completely cured it. I would have thought that if the battery was marginal that it would struggle more in the cold, but not in my case. Reading all the doom and gloom on the internet made me think I'd need Y-cable etc etc but nope. A lot of Porsche internet content is from UK and N-E USA where they get a really hard time with corrosion, most AU cars look basically brand new underneath in comparison. I do note however multiple AU responders in this thread who did find it to be the Y-cable. But if the battery is in any way aged, maybe just change that first as it's cheap and a two minute job. I got an AGM Bosch battery. micknine01 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IXLR8 Posted 10June, 2023 Report Share Posted 10June, 2023 Two simple tests. 1) Fully charge the disconnected battery and then let it rest overnight. Using a real load tester, apply 1/2 the CCA of the battery for 15 seconds and note the battery voltage. Usually in the upper 9V range and the voltage is based on temperature. The higher, the better and indicates a low internal resistance of the battery. 2) Perform a voltage drop test from the Positive terminal of the battery towards the starter. Good connections have no voltage drops. During a start, the load varies so you either need a storage scope or a quality DMM with Max and Min holds. To perform this test, you need to disable the ignition circuit...so pull a fuse. micknine01 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
micknine01 Posted 15July, 2023 Report Share Posted 15July, 2023 Turned out to be the starter. Bolted a new one in yesterday and all my problems have gone away 😅 P-Kay and JWM 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.