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Chassis lube!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I reckon that's to prime each cylinder before they kick it over.

That would be way too easy!

The engine turns over with the meerest flick of the switch and chugs away at around 250rpm.

Quality , but at a price "if you have to ask..." league

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That would be way too easy!

The engine turns over with the meerest flick of the switch and chugs away at around 250rpm.

Quality , but at a price "if you have to ask..." league

Unlike some of our "Well to do" bretheren....................I need lo ask...........I'm from the Northern suburbs!!!!!!!!!

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Chassis lube!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I reckon that's to prime each cylinder before they kick it over.

Yep, chassis lube. In particular the linkages and joints of the brake levers and actuators, gear selector, clutch linkages, magneto bearings, joints and bearings in the numerous controls for ignition, carburetor, etc. These old beauties were built with good old nuts and bolts, levers and bearings and it all needed regular oiling for continued smooth operation.

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Yep, chassis lube. In particular the linkages and joints of the brake levers and actuators, gear selector, clutch linkages, magneto bearings, joints and bearings in the numerous controls for ignition, carburetor, etc. These old beauties were built with good old nuts and bolts, levers and bearings and it all needed regular oiling for continued smooth operation.

 

do not forget that the driver has to operate many of those manually while driving.  No gearshift syncro, no hydraulic brakes, no automatic advance/retard, no power steering and it weighs about 2 tonnes, no automatic mixture control

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No answer yet , but from this site http://restored-classics.com/bundy/page10.html come a couple of little tidbits

 

The car is also fitted with a governor driven by an air pump, which allows a steady speed to be maintained up hill and down dale. Nowadays we call it 'cruise control' and think it quite a modern device.

 

The car has had a chequered history. At one time in the early thirties the driver decided to check the level of petrol in the tank and as it was dusk struck a match to obtain more light. The resultant conflagration destroyed much of the body as well as melting the rear wheels.

 

 

 

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do not forget that the driver has to operate many of those manually while driving.  No gearshift syncro, no hydraulic brakes, no automatic advance/retard, no power steering and it weighs about 2 tonnes, no automatic mixture control

 

 

No answer yet , but from this site http://restored-classics.com/bundy/page10.html come a couple of little tidbits

The oil can was also used for keeping the governor well oiled.(oil, not whisky) 

These cars were quite a handfull.  The driver need a spare set of hands for all the controls.  This advice straight from the owners handbook gives an insight to how busy the driver was... 

 

"An alternative method of changing " down," and one which may

be found easier by those who have difficulty in making a clean

change, is to utilise the governor for determining the engine speed

during double-clutching. To do this the driver should, immediately

before withdrawing the clutch for changing, advance the governor

C- lever up its quadrant until, with the accelerator pedal released, the

engine is felt to be definitely pulling the car. The operation of

double-clutching and engaging the lower gear can then be performed

as already described, but witho'ut touching the accelerator pedal.

A further advantage in utilising the speed-controlling characteristics

of the Rolls-Royce governor as described, is that, even should the

gear be " missed," the engine will not " race " in a distressing manner,

due to the driver inadvertently keeping his foot on the accelerator

pedal.

The governor lever may then be restored to its normal touring

position and the accelerator pedal depressed the required amount.

A driver will-soon get to know the best positions for the governor lever, which will depend upon the speed of the car and the steepness of the gradient being surmounted."

 

http://webstorage.rroc.org/TOL/PI/PI%20Handbook%20(I).pdf

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Rolls Royce forum , 1921 "Help! Car won't start!"

 

Starting a Silver Ghost is a series of simple steps. You

fully retard the IGNITION from EARLY to LATE. This is very

important if you want to avoid a broken wrist when you crank. You

then advance the GOVERNOR about one third up the quadrant, the

position depending on how the linkages are adjusted, but there is a

fair amount of leeway. 

Now you must pressurize the fuel tank. Ghosts do not

have vacuum tanks, unless they are very late models or have been

fitted with modern electric fuel pumps. In all but very early Ghosts,

this pressure is initially provided by a hand-operated air pump. 

The gauge, labelled FUEL, is not a fuel level gauge. It indicates the pumped up

fuel system air pressure, in pounds per square inch. About two

pounds is adequate. If the fuel line tap is in the OFF position, you

now turn it to ON.

The air pressure should fill the carburettor float bowl with

fuel. To make sure, you open the hood on the driver’s side and

depress the knob on top of the carburettor float bowl until the fuel

fills the bowl and perhaps overflows a little. DO NOT JIGGLE the

float needle. This is akin to shooting a sitting bird or milking a cow

with your signet ring on.

 

You are now in a position to crank the engine. You engage

the crank handle and lift it for six or more compressions. This

ensures that there will be a cylinder with a full charge of fuel/air

mixture in the firing position. You return to the cockpit, move the

mixture lever to strong, and then turn the trembler ignition switch

to either ONE or TWO. It doesn’t matter which, as there are two

batteries, the extra one being a back-up in case of a flat battery.

When you turn the trembler ignition on, the engine should

start. This is because one cylinder should have an ignitable fuel/

air mixture, with its piston past top dead centre and the trembler

ignition fires the spark-plug to ignite this charge. The engine

will then rotate, the next and later cylinders will then fire in turn,

and the engine will be running. Once the engine is running, the

handbook recommends that you turn the magneto ignition ON and

the trembler ignition OFF.

 

If the trembler does not start the engine, you will have to

hand-crank to rotate it past top dead centre to start it. If you forget

to retard the spark, the engine may run backwards, especially if

the magneto switch is on, catch the crank handle, and break your

wrist. 

 

 

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"An alternative method of changing " down," and one which may

be found easier by those who have difficulty in making a clean

change, is to utilise the governor for determining the engine speed

during double-clutching. To do this the driver should, immediately

before withdrawing the clutch for changing, advance the governor

C- lever up its quadrant until, with the accelerator pedal released, the

engine is felt to be definitely pulling the car. The operation of

double-clutching and engaging the lower gear can then be performed

as already described, but witho'ut touching the accelerator pedal.

A further advantage in utilising the speed-controlling characteristics

of the Rolls-Royce governor as described, is that, even should the

gear be " missed," the engine will not " race " in a distressing manner,

due to the driver inadvertently keeping his foot on the accelerator

pedal.

The governor lever may then be restored to its normal touring

position and the accelerator pedal depressed the required amount.

A driver will-soon get to know the best positions for the governor lever, which will depend upon the speed of the car and the steepness of the gradient being surmounted."

 

http://webstorage.rroc.org/TOL/PI/PI%20Handbook%20(I).pdf

 

So what you're saying is just like a 915 gearbox then Harv's.

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One and the same! It takes about the same time to change down.

good advice, but it neglects to advise that the driver is well advised to engage the emergency brake (you probably know this as the handbrake but things were different back then) so as to ensure that the vehicle does not speed up on a down gradient

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OK what's this engine from? L1.jpg

 

 So , the dizzy drive runs the fuel pump (cone shaped thing on the right). The pump drive needs a little oil , 3-4 drops a month  , to run sweet. The best dressed engines keep a can next to the stove.

 

Amazingly they built over 6000 of these cars.

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 So , the dizzy drive runs the fuel pump (cone shaped thing on the right). The pump drive needs a little oil , 3-4 drops a month  , to run sweet. The best dressed engines keep a can next to the stove.

 

Amazingly they built over 6000 of these cars.

  Not so much

as far as I'm aware, the fuel pump is the person in the front passenger seat, the tank is sealed and pressurised by the pumping of the front passenger who pumps on a device not unlike a tire pump that is plumbed into the system. Once pressurised, the fuel is forced by the tank pressure to seek escape paths and the carburettor is the line of least resistance.  I'm unaware of another fuel pump but I don't have first hand experience of these cars.

 

The carb is the strange looking brass device with lots of pipes in the middle of the off side of the engine.  Look carefully and you'll see that there is one crank, one crank case, but two blocks.

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  Not so much

as far as I'm aware, the fuel pump is the person in the front passenger seat, the tank is sealed and pressurised by the pumping of the front passenger who pumps on a device not unlike a tire pump that is plumbed into the system. Once pressurised, the fuel is forced by the tank pressure to seek escape paths and the carburettor is the line of least resistance.  I'm unaware of another fuel pump but I don't have first hand experience of these cars.

 

The carb is the strange looking brass device with lots of pipes in the middle of the off side of the engine.  Look carefully and you'll see that there is one crank, one crank case, but two blocks.

I think there was a difference between the early and later Ghosts but I'll have to check. 

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