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911 SC Engine and Gearbox Drop


Caledonian

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Great work - very helpful pictures.

 

Will you be testing the airbox to find those sneaky airleaks while you have it on the bench?

 

I am going to plug off the EGR on mine, cant see one on your car, perhaps they were only on the early SCs

 

Peter 3.0 SC 

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Are you going to share the final refresh bill with us when it's done?

 

 

Well I wasn't expecting this Coaster, but you any of others want to chip in with the final bill thats fine with me :rolleyes:

 

I don't see why not, i will work something out at the end as I'm sure something else will turn up...

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Great work - very helpful pictures.

 

Will you be testing the airbox to find those sneaky airleaks while you have it on the bench?

 

I am going to plug off the EGR on mine, cant see one on your car, perhaps they were only on the early SCs

 

Peter 3.0 SC 

No Peter I didn't think to do any bench testing but I did have a good look at the areas you can't see when its in the car and cleaned off a lot of crud, the air box is in good condition with no evidence of any damage or repairs.

 

Mine is a March 78 SC and I don't have an EGR or do you mean Smog Pump? we do have an expert on those lurking around somewhere  <_<

 

Glad you like the pics

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No Peter I didn't think to do any bench testing but I did have a good look at the areas you can't see when its in the car and cleaned off a lot of crud, the air box is in good condition with no evidence of any damage or repairs.

 

Mine is a March 78 SC and I don't have an EGR or do you mean Smog Pump? we do have an expert on those lurking around somewhere  <_<

 

Glad you like the pics

 

LOL...... 

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Got few hours in last night and managed to finish off cleaning the other 3 intake runners and reinstalling the CIS, as they say "Fitting is the reverse of removal" well that fine if you can remember what you did last week :wacko: this is when the Digital camera is a god send...

 
You can see why the CIS can only really be fitted as unit, although others have apparently replaced a single rubber in place :o .The orientation of the intake rubber clamps is critical and you have to just nip the up so they stay in place while you re-install the CIS unit. Once the CIS is in place and tightened down to the engine you then tighten the clamps once you are happy with position of the unit but if you have not positioned them correctly you can't get access to the clamp screw.
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Heres a tip for removing and refitting the intake runners, if you don't have one of these you will need to get one as it is the only way you can get to some of the nuts.
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I managed to get the CIS back on myself with a bit of fiddling but another pair of hands would have been handy (pun intended)
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The CIS unit is supported by 2 of these rubber bobbins at the rear, the one in the first pic had sheared off, this meant the intake rubbers were partially supporting the unit which was evident by the fact that some off the intake rubbers were slightly twisted.
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Although the 2nd was not sheared but it was now twisted as it was taking more of the CIS unit weight, both were replaced.
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Yes I will clean up and paint that bracket before the engine goes back in.... ^_^
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With the CIS back in place i started buttoning everything back up and replacing the worn/damaged/missing parts.

 
Vacuum hoses replaced (with the correct stuff too).
 
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This was the part that kept holding up the delivery, probably could have fitted it later and I only noticed it was missing after going through the parts manual while looking while for something else.
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The injectors popped in nicely with the new seals and sleeves.
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A firm downward tap with a screwdriver on top the injector line nut and they seat perfectly.
 
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All back together and getting closed to re-entry, need to get new bolt as one was missing from the W.U.R
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And finally (for today anyway) a new shinny nut for the starter motor, shame about the rubbish paint job on it though..
 
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Yeah I hate it when people post detailed photos and descriptions of their work. Next time just a single post "pulled out engine, fixed some stuff' would be preferable.

In all seriousness though Mike keep em coming. It's great to see how it's all coming together. It makes me want to drop my engine and have a play.

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Detail is great!

Keep it comming, I love this stuff. It's great that you stop to take pics along the way. Guaranteed to be useful to others later on.

Great work.

Thanks for posting

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Detail is great!

Keep it comming, I love this stuff. It's great that you stop to take pics along the way. Guaranteed to be useful to others later on.

Great work.

Thanks for posting

I defiantly have found other posts and pics helpful before starting a job, hope these do the same.

 

Taking the pics is the easy part i just click away, its deciding which ones to use afterwords that takes the time and thats probably why there is so many.....

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Great thread Mike.  

 

You've inspired me to check my injector tubes.  They are quite loose.  I fitted new injector seals last year but left the tubes.  This could be the source of an intermittent vacuum leak.  How difficult was removing the old tubes?  I don't want any debris dropping into the engine so I guess it's better done with the intake runners removed.

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My injector sleeves(tubes) appeared to be the originals as there was no evidence of them ever being replaced, so they had been in there for 36 years and were very crumbly. There would have been no way I could have removed them without some bits falling into the cylinder.

Surprisingly only 2 of the tubes were loose, the others were pretty gummed up and needed knocking out from underneath.

Did you not have your motor out recently?

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Few more jobs tick off the list, got the oil tank sender unit back in, fixed some wiring and fitted the engine oil cooler.

 
New seals fitted with light coating of oil as recommend.
 
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Although the cooler was professionally cleaned and pressure tested I still flushed it through with solvent and then clean engine oil before fitting, more for my peace of mind i suppose.
 
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I've got a little bit of cleaning to to before i finish off fitting the last few parts on the engine then i'll go around and check everything is tight and fitted.
 
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The wiring for the oil tank sender was in a poor state but just need a clean up and some new conectors and that alowed me to fit the new rubber boot for the terminal.
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Finished off with some heat shrink for added protection.
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The tank sender unit gasket is a made of cork and as this in a known area for leaks/weep I thought there might be something modern around? having old british motorbikes I have learned how to deal with oil leaks :wacko:
Threebond comes in various types for different applications, check out their website for the technical stuff. I put an even thin coat on both sides of the gasket (took the pic before finishing) so no need to point out the gaps :o then you let it sit for a minute or so to tack off. It also comes off relatively easy too if you have to remove the part for any reason.
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Oil Tank before:
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Oil Tank After:
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The last bits and pieces went on the engine tonight, now I've  just got to go around everything to make sure everything is tight and where it should be. But not tonight as I'm too tired to concentrate and i'll probably miss something.

 
The  sheared CIS airbox bobbin must have been the cause of the engine oil cooler shroud and the alloy vacuum pipe rubbing, if this had been left for too much longer I probably would have gotten a leak.
 
See the rub mark on top of the shroud/airguide.
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Bottom of the vacuum pipe worn away a little, this what was supporting the airbox.
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Plenty of clearance now.
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99.9% ready to go back in.
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Need to get some new hose clamps for the nice new breather hose.
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As the end of the expenditure (hopefully) is upon me I'll work out the costs, as Coaster suggested so you can see what you "may" be in for if you drop your engine to change $30 worth of seal,gasket and oil switch :o
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I can't get over how close the internal oil cooler is to the heat exchanger. Tempted to put my hand on the underside of the cooler to see if there's enough airflow on mine before the exhaust heats up one day to test it out.

 

Looking super clean btw!.

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The last bits and pieces went on the engine tonight, now I've  just got to go around everything to make sure everything is tight and where it should be. But not tonight as I'm too tired to concentrate and i'll probably miss something.

 
 
99.9% ready to go back in.
 
 
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Need to get some new hose clamps for the nice new breather hose.
 
 
As the end of the expenditure (hopefully) is upon me I'll work out the costs, as Coaster suggested so you can see what you "may" be in for if you drop your engine to change $30 worth of seal,gasket and oil switch :o

 

 

I can see you've made a mistake here - you accidentally bolted a motorbike to the side of the engine-  I don't think that will fit in the car!

 

I have a receipt in the big book of receipts for an engine drop, seals fix and clean and service which was $4k.  Within 3 months of the PO taking delivery.  So no matter how bad you feel, at least you're not paying someone else to do it.

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Got the paintwork back today,not as impressive as Al's (Quozl) display of shiny parts earlier today but i'm happy with them..

 

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Got one of the driveshafts greased up and installed.

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Oil tank fitted back in.

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All going to plan I'm hoping to get the engine back in tomorrow.

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