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911 SC Engine and Gearbox Drop


Caledonian

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If it was me i'd do washers, loctite and check they're not loose every oil change

 

infact that's what i'm going to do after seeing those pictures on pelican

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Caledonian I sent you a PM but in case you don't read them I have a copy of the workshop manual in PDF if you'd like it, it should have the info for you shouldn't it?

 

Cheers Al

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The washers you are looking for are called Nordlock washers.

 

http://www.nord-lock.com/nord-lock/wedge-locking/washers/introduction/

 

most nut and bolt suppliers will have / can get them. Not overly expensive either.

Yes i came across them, apparently they are another brand of the Schorr washer just fancier :)

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Oh don't tease!

 

Interested !!

 

I havent bought anything from FCP Euro yet. What were their shipping rates like?

 

Peter

Melb. 3.0L SC

Ok Ok as both of you won't stop pestering me :P

 

Peter they worked out at $100 per joint and boot, landed cost and got here in less than a week although they did sit at my work for 3 days as somebody forgot to tell me they had arrived...

 

It's the first time i've used FCP after Russ put me on to them, have to say they were easy to deal with and competitively priced on both shipping and the parts. BTW over $250 less than the best price i could get in Australia.

 

 

IMG_1087_zps7bb96ae2.jpg

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After much research on the whole CV joint moon plate needed or not question, I have now come to a conclusion.

There are plenty of threads and information about this subject, when you read enough of them and separate the facts from the theories, it starts to make sense. The following is my interpretation or version of the truth, but not necessarily correct. 

Moon washers,lock plates or torque washers are just some of the names given to this part. It it not unique to Porsche or the 911 and is used on many CV joints on many different cars.  

The purpose of the torque washer (I like that name best) is to provide a hard surface for the "Schorr" locking washer to grip to and do its job, the softer metal on CV boot flange has been attributed as the reason for the bolts loosening off. It also spreads the force as the bolts clamp the CV joint to the axle/gearbox flanges. Although I found no reference to this, I believe it also helps seal the rubber boot metal flange to the CV joint as there is no gasket there.

My car did not have them fitted and the bolts were not loose, and as far I'm aware the car had travelled around 20k km with no problems. But I will be fitting them needed or not, there are more reasons to fit them than not and I'd rather have the peace of mind.
 
Old joint:IMG_1090_zps62a565fd.jpg
 
 
New joint & boot:
 
IMG_1091_zps8d5abcd9.jpg
IMG_1092_zps6b83769e.jpg
 
The main difference between the boot and the ones i took off, is the boot clamps to the flange on this one and was crimped to the flange on the old one.
IMG_1093_zpsdd9952d9.jpg
 
As you can see the shaft has had a lick of paint, looks too good to hide under the car...
 
IMG_1094_zps7e24863e.jpg
 
IMG_1014_zps95397247.jpgIMG_1046_zps4e3df419.jpg
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As you start to read this some of you will be thinking "How much more can he post about a bloody driveshaft" !!!!

 
Well not too much more I promise... just thought it was worth a mention that even when you get new parts like the CV joints they are not necessarily ready to fit out of the box. 
 
As you can see there is still some residue from the manufacturing process, it may be burnt oil, machining fluid or something.
IMG_1099_zps00aecbfa.jpg
 
A light wire brushing soon removed it, but had it been left there it would have mixed with the grease and probably increased the rate of wear. All four CV's were the same but it only took a few minutes to clean and then a quick rinse off with brake cleaner.
 
IMG_1100_zps66d71d22.jpg
 
 
Out with the old and in with the new:
IMG_1101_zps68f7131f.jpg
 
 
Borrowed Nathan's Super Dooper degreaser multi purpose cleaner stuff to give it a go on the stubborn bits of the engine bay and surrounds:
 
Before: this is where the oil tank lives.
 
IMG_1097_zps02e2fcd9.jpg
IMG_1098_zps8aa084cc.jpg
 
After: 
 
IMG_1120_zps6145be5f.jpg
IMG_1118_zps165c60b9.jpg
 
Hard to believe thats the wheel arch of 36 year old 911.. great find Nathan! although by the time everyone else here as tested it on their cars there might not be too much left to give you back :wacko:
 
Mixed 100ml of Super Dooper stuff with 400ml of water in a cheap spray bottle, sprayed in on left it for a bit to do it thing then gave it a bit agitation with a $2 dish brush and just washed it off with a bucket and cloth of clean water.
 
Not only does the paint feel softer and have a lovely sheen, the engine bay now smells of fresh citrus.....................
 
Ok made that last bit up :)
 
IMG_1122_zps807f954c.jpg
 
Tip of the day - when painting the bits and bobs of a WYIT episode, its good to use something like this as not only does it help the topcoat to stay put it provides extra corrosion protection also. But most of you will already know this so no need to tell me you do ;)
 
IMG_1108_zpsce101689.jpg
 
 
 
BTW John, that is my hand...... :rolleyes:
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Found the the torque washers for the CV joints today, not through a Google search but simply talking to a PFA member. Moderator of the month award goes to Russ :wub:  while at C&C on Saturday Russ suggested I try these guys (Micks Autos a VW specialist in Brisbane) so gave them call and they reckoned they had what I was looking for so I popped over and voila !

 
IMG_1138_zps521079fd.jpg
 
$30 for 12 and no shipping, searched all over the interweb for these things and a place 20 min from my house had them in stock.
 
IMG_1137_zps6b526cc0.jpg
 
Great day for parts as the oil cooler arrived from the US..
 
IMG_1134_zpsdd6f21a5.jpg
 
Looks pretty clean but i will still be getting it ultrasonically cleaned and pressure tested before I install it, seller has offered a money back guarantee it does not leak. 
 
IMG_1132_zpsfba237e5.jpg
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