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1966 912 or 356 "D" as some refer to them...


wasserkuhl

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I am getting EFI.

 

*Edit*

 

Well it seems the problem was the fuel. Its too good.

 

I was following tuning directions from the US of A , which have some quite poor E10 blend fuels.

 

The problem was that - They say back out the Solex idle mixture screws 3 full turns.

 

I decided to screw them in , one by one so they were fully seated and back them out until they made a difference to the idle.

 

The result is one half of a turn (median; some have been adjusted more or less to match the air flow meter)

 

So it was getting too much good scotch and as such farting out black smoke because it couldn't consume this heady brew.

 

Thank your lucky stars that we have 98 octaine NIL Ethanol. Avoid it as it ruins lots of small components on older cars.

 

98 is the shizzle.

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Ethanol is the enemy for sure. It soaks up water apparently and then the water ruins your fuel system. I used to work for a US mower manufacturer and ethanol based fuels killed lots of small engine powered products

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Ethanol is the enemy for sure. It soaks up water apparently and then the water ruins your fuel system. I used to work for a US mower manufacturer and ethanol based fuels killed lots of small engine powered products

 

Separates the moisture and plays havoc with older cars. 

 

People ask me why their car is running funny and stalling, more often than not its because they are using shop-a-docket woolworths fuel......

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I've noticed that different brands have various mixes. 91 is ethanol free but often 98 & 100 have 10% ethanol. Check before filling! If in doubt get the ethanol free option then find a station that sells fuel suitable for your car.

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I have had best results using Bp Ultimate 98.

 

Although others disagree, I have used it for years in both turbo and atmo cars and it has been great for me.

 

Noting that some areas of the country get a different product to others, due to logistics and delivery.

 

as far as I know it is ethanol free. Caltex Vortex 98 is also ethanol free.

 

Some Petrol Stations such as United have a 100 Octane with 10% ethanol, we also had South Australian Farmers Federation stations that offerred the same ethanol blend.

 

I belive that Shells premium 98/100 octane offerring is also ethanol free.

 

I have asked at various servo's over the years and they have all identified which fuels had ethanol and which didn't, which is always a surprise considering your average console operators blank looks.

 

All of the premium unleaded 98 octane fuels have a significantly lower Sulphur component which I see as a bonus.

 

Noting that all alloy headed pre 86 vehicle can use unleaded fuels as they have stainless/or similar exhaust valve seat inserts. Cast iron headed vehicles will need an additive to avoid valve seat damage using unleaded fuels.

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I have had best results using Bp Ultimate 98.

 

Although others disagree, I have used it for years in both turbo and atmo cars and it has been great for me.

 

Noting that some areas of the country get a different product to others, due to logistics and delivery.

 

as far as I know it is ethanol free. Caltex Vortex 98 is also ethanol free.

 

Some Petrol Stations such as United have a 100 Octane with 10% ethanol, we also had South Australian Farmers Federation stations that offerred the same ethanol blend.

 

I belive that Shells premium 98/100 octane offerring is also ethanol free.

 

I have asked at various servo's over the years and they have all identified which fuels had ethanol and which didn't, which is always a surprise considering your average console operators blank looks.

 

All of the premium unleaded 98 octane fuels have a significantly lower Sulphur component which I see as a bonus.

 

Noting that all alloy headed pre 86 vehicle can use unleaded fuels as they have stainless/or similar exhaust valve seat inserts. Cast iron headed vehicles will need an additive to avoid valve seat damage using unleaded fuels.

 

My SC uses 91 so I dont often think about the other fuels.  It was United where I noticed 98 and 100 both had ethanol. I couldn't see the 95 pump.

I think the reason that the servo register jockeys know which fuel has ethanol is because if they tell you the wrong thing they could be up for the cost of repaing a stuffed engine/fuel system. 

 

As for fuel additives for a cast iron head. From personal experience of learning the hard way ,the only failsafe additive is hardened valve seats, stainless vales and phospor bronze valve guides.  Fortunately, I dont think any porkers need to worry about this.

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Slow going this week. as I just can't leave well enough alone, I have pulled the rear brake calipers and rebuilt them.

 

Upon measuring the pistons (34mm) I have found the replacements are 35 mm, I've not yet been able to clarify what is the exact measurement of the replacements, however "those in the know" tell me its 35mm for rears. They haven't ever actually measured them though.....

 

Anyway, I have one side back together using the old pistons, with new everything, including discs(the old ones were OK but I don't like just OK)

 

After much tuning I have it running rather quite well, full throttle yields no backfires and what is actually quite a very nice sound. Shame the filter cans will muffle this induction porn.

 

The trick was to adjust the mixture screws to match the individual cylinders performance(ie: Compression) which by taking note of the compression values I was able to adjust the mixtures in line with each cylinder, then test the airflow with my meter, which is now pulling same values for all cylinders.

 

Pity this will change regularly!!

 

Pertronix has arrived and will go on after the inspection as I am scared of the word "Modified" when it comes to inspections.

 

I am trying to slow down progress as when this is done I shall be bored again.

 

Still need to :

 

Replace/install shift rod seal

 

Replace pushrod tubes

 

Recover dash in period correct vinyl

 

Instal new dash trim and stereo.

 

then its done.

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Errrm, you can. Thats quite a compliment! At least you know whats been done to it!

It's sounding like a great car, can't wait to see some photos of it back on the road. All this talk about 912's, can't help but get a little excited!

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I think we can all take a bit of inspiration here. If you are prepared to dive in and get your hands dirty doing normal maintenance work, these cars are no more difficult to work on than any other.

 

Its a slippery slope, normal maintenance quickly evolves to things you never thought you could ever do.

 

I really like to understand the cars and their technology which helps in getting them running as they should.

 

In addition it can save you lots of wonga!!

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Quick update.

 

Got all brakes back on and bled the system.

 

This revealed that the front RHS caliper was leaking around the bleeder screw, even when it was fully closed.

 

When I first removed the Caliper, I noticed that the bleeder had a small bolt screwed into it. Dodgy I thought, so I got a new Bleeder and rebuilt the caliper. 

 

After bleeding the Brakes, it is revelaled that the bleeder is leaking because it appears that someone has drilled out the bleeder hole, which has in turn stopped the bleeder closing off when fully seated.

 

So, only correct and safest fix is to get another caliper, which I have ordered.

 

Whilst waiting for parts, again, I have started to repair the shifter shaft seal on the gearbox. Its an arse of a job whith the gearbox in the car but I shall just take my time and do it slowly.

 

You have to remove the old seal by making a 'puller' from 2 x 75mm 4g Self Tapper Screws, a piece of flat steel and a M6 Bolt.

 

Ideally it should pull out evenly. If not I will just have to pick it out carefully.

 

I am getting very patient with this car.

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Seems like its still rolling along well mate.Like you I keep seeing "while I am there" small jobs that suck time and don't seem to help get the car back on the road.

It's killing me not being able to jump in my old dunger and at worst drive it to work a couple of times a week.

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I know.

 

I have now limited myself to repair the gearbox seal leak and whack the new calipers on and thats it.

 

Anything else can wait.

 

I just want to drive it! Although I haven't driven the C3 or the 356 as much as I should. Its been wet here so maybe I will drive the C3 to work later in the week.

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I know.

 

I have now limited myself to repair the gearbox seal leak and whack the new calipers on and thats it.

 

Anything else can wait.

 

I just want to drive it! Although I haven't driven the C3 or the 356 as much as I should. Its been wet here so maybe I will drive the C3 to work later in the week.

A couple of spare Porkers in the garage would be nice right now :(

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I know how that reads, sorry about that. I just love them too much

No foul there Wasser. The more the merrier. I wasn't having a dig at you. Just me being sooky at not having my car to play with for the last couple of weeks.
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Installed Pertronix ignition and coil today.

 

Fired up first time, reset static advance to 3 degrees. Advances to 31 Degrees @ 3500rpm.

 

Happy with that.

 

Idles smoothly at 960 rpm(timing light has rev counter) may have to increase that for when the filter cans go back on.

 

Now to finish gearbox seal and front brakes.

 

Then done.

 

Maybe.

 

Must register.

 

Have the historic all number plates off my first car, a 1959 Beetle. Rego is "334 118" white on black.

 

Did cheack availability of custom plates that read "356D" but only available in white on red, which is a bit "real Estate agent" for me.

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