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911 SC Suspension - Time for a refresh

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Coming up for 6 years since I hooked up with my SXC blonde and now she (should cars be gender neutral now?) is like many 41 year olds, getting a bit saggy and spongy while moving around.

Current setup ( or how I bought the car ) is Green (HD I Think) Bilstiens on the rear and Boge Struts on the front but not known if they have had the inserts replaced, the rear shocks had stickers on them indicating they had been rebuilt/refurbished at some time. I have already purchaced the Elephant racing spring plate rubbers and was intending using the same on the front, along with replace ball joints as one has a torn rubber dust cover and replace the strut top,sway bar and trailing arm bushing as a matter of course. The LF strut has a slight weep and the gap on the spring plate outer cover (the indicator to how worn they are apparently) is suggesting the time is near.

Just looking to hear what people have done and experienced with their own suspension (don't need theory have the web for that) and not looking to track the car but want better than stock and aiming for a compromise between comfort and performance. 

Questions:

  • What did you use and why?
  • Was it better or worse?
  • What problems did you encounter?
  • What Tips can you share?
  • Replace and or upgrade torsion bars?
  • Anything else you can think of?

Cheers

Mike

https://www.instagram.com/p/BtVZNzOHTJ3/?utm_source=ig_share_sheet&igshid=1xhneq18qmlpq

 

 

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Hi Mike. 

Sounds like a very similar setup to my car (1980 SC)

I replaced the front and rear control arm bushings with polyurethane/graphite parts to tighten things up for the track days I was doing at the time. I left the shocks and torsion bars as original. Worked a treat with excellent control and feedback. BUT, even with the graphite in the bushing material and a liberal coating of graphite grease, the bastards still squeak.  I’ll probably use the Elephant Racing OE style parts to replace them now that it’s only getting road use.  

 

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Bilsteins all round

ER polybronze front bushings

Stock torsion bars and sway bar

ER rubber rear spring plate bushings

New ball joints + turbo tie rods

Front strut brace

I did not want my enthusiastically  driven  car leaping off road imperfections .
8 years on , mostly street car , no issues. 
Obviously for track or billiard table smooth canyon carving you could beef things up a bit.
The car would be harder to sell on I suspect.
 

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2 hours ago, tazzieman said:

Bilsteins all round

ER polybronze front bushings

Stock torsion bars and sway bar

ER rubber rear spring plate bushings

New ball joints + turbo tie rods

Front strut brace

I did not want my enthusiastically  driven  car leaping off road imperfections .
8 years on , mostly street car , no issues. 
Obviously for track or billiard table smooth canyon carving you could beef things up a bit.
The car would be harder to sell on I suspect.
 

8 years on.... I like that bit😉

which Bilstiens did you use?

Polybronze.. how would you describe the difference from those to the previous rubber bushes?

Already done the Turbo Tie rods but hadn’t considered the strut brace, good point as relatively inexpensive and easy to fit and remove too.

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Bilstein sport.
Not much noticeable difference bw Polybronze and new rubber though on a track the lack of deflection would help precision.
When you pull out the old bushings you may get a shock at how distorted they are.
Polybronze do need greasing but it's no bg deal.

John Bowe recommended a strut brace , even for street/country driving.
Overall the car is a bit tighter than stock , but they aren't soft roaders so you can endure a little bit of what makes the car handle better!

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I went with the full elephant racing suspension restoration package.

 

REAR

It really went from some noisy sloppy handling to how I am sure it would have been from the factory, it felt like a new car again!

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The stock setup is IMHO a tad soft, particularly for modern tyres (I have TOYO R1R which are fairly soft).  My suspension was very tired!

My setup:

Bilstein B6 all round (you need to check your struts to see if these will work for you)

21mm solid TBs front.

28mm hollow TBs rear.

New front ball joints.

Rennline strut tops - harder rubber (probably the same as those supplied by ER).

New Turbo tie rods.

Stock sway bar but new bushes.

Stock A arm bushes.  I have a set of ER Polybronze bushes but decided in the end to keep it stock in the bush department.  I have Polybronze in my rally car and agree with Tassieman that they are not noticeably harsher than stock, but for a road car I can't see much advantage in them.

New Sport engine and transmission mounts.

Stock rear sway bar but new bushes and drop links.

New Rennline adjustable spring plates (they have harder bush material).

Have not checked the trailing arm bushes yet...

Wheel alignment by someone who knows these cars and what they are doing.

Also did the brakes while I was at it - new disks, braided flex lines, caliper rebuilds all round, PAGID pads, Castrol SRF fluid.  Brakes work much better than I expected!

Not a track car as that would require a somewhat more aggressive setup.

Most parts supplied by James at Autohaus although I had a few bits on the shelf.  Total cost about $5K including brakes if DIY and including wheel alignment.

Hope this is of some use.

See here -

 

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Mike

I just changed out the suspension in my 77. 

Car is still in the air till I get a chance the bleed the brakes. I went with Bilstein B6 inserts front and shocks rear. Elephant Racing rubber control arm bushings. Changed the ball joints, wheel bearings, rotors.. Car already had 21mm torsion bars.. not sure what is in the rear. Hope to let you know how it goes later this week.

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