996 CTEK charger connection.

[Prodigy]

I will be picking up my first Porsche this week, a Gen2 996 Cabriolet. 

I was wondering what the best way to connect my CTEK 5.0 charger to the vehicle is please. I believe some Porsches will charge via the cigarette lighter? Is this possible with the 996?

If not is it best to connect direct to the battery? I have heard that you shouldn't connect both positive and negative to the battery itself, instead use a ground point on the vehicle for the negative? Is this true? 

My current car has its own charging points separate from the battery so i've never had to worry.

Thank you

[Tips]

Having an older 911 the PO used the optional plug that hard wired directly to the battery and is then just tucked away in the frunk when not in use. I find it quiet easy particularly as the car has a soft cover over it when not in use.

[Merv]

A 'Ground" on the battery, or one established as a dedicated ground nearby, is the same. IIRC the CTEK manual now says to charge via the battery.  Mine didn't come with a plug-in socket.  Personally, I would not use the cigarette socket as the 996 is notorious for immobiliser/central locking computer issues and I would not risk it and prefer to use the recommended connection.

On the 996, I have the CTEK pig tail fitted to the battery terminal.  Easy to connect that way, but be sure that the lead is long enough so that you don't leave the connector plug on top of the plastic moulding inside and then close the trunk lid completely. You could damage the lid that way, at least on the AWD models with their extra mouldings in the front space.  The newer CTEK 5.0's are a great piece of kit.  My old CTEK died after 12 years, so I bought a couple of the new 5.0s.  Most impressed with the design.

[Skidmarks]

On mine, I have them all direct to the battery using the loom supplied. 

On a couple, I use the charging socket in the footwell but that’s specifically for that purpose.  I tried the lighter on the 996 GT3 and it didn’t work anyway.  

[Peter M]

8 hours ago, Prodigy said:

I have heard that you shouldn't connect both positive and negative to the battery itself, instead use a ground point on the vehicle for the negative? Is this true? 

That's true if you are jump starting a car.  The last jumper lead connection should be away from the battery to avoid the spark igniting any accumulated hydrogen gas.  ie Positive to positive and then negative to an earthing point away from the other battery.

However a battery charger is different and doesn't create a spark on connection prior to being powering up.  Plus you wouldn't expect any possible accumulation of gas at this stage.

I've only had good experiences with my many Ctek's.  Unlike some brands that only last a few years of continuous service. 

You can buy the Ctek pigtails off eBay cheaply.  You just may have to drill out the eyelet holes to suit your battery cable clamp bolts but that's easy.  

[Dreamr]

Timely post. I just bought a Ctek MSX 5 yesterday. I am going to do what @Peter M suggested and use the eyelets on the battery terminals .. 😀

[Lucky Phil]

I posted a video on this a while ago but when I tried to repost the video would not work.  Lot on You Tube though

 

[KGB]

My 928 & 964 both have the connector loom (eyelets) wired to the battery terminals, super easy snap connect for charging.

You can also buy an extension cable to allow you to place the charger away from the car.

Great system and product.  I killed one a month ago after 7 years, now I have a couple of 5.0’s.

[Prodigy]

Thank you all for your responses, much appreciated. I have the CTEK comfort connectors so will just connect them directly to the battery.

I think where i was getting confused is that i had read previously if you connect to the battery direct you bypass the vehicles battery management system, I'm assuming these cars do not have BMS due to their age.

I guess i also don't have to use AGM mode on the charger anymore?

[Peter M]

Only if you have an absorbed glass mat battery.

[Guest DG996c4s]

Hi 'prototype' here is a few images of the CTek safely installed using velcro, so sits permanently in the frunk of my C4s.

Had no issues todate. Dennis

[porka987s]

I use the cigarette lighter in my 987 Cayman S, closed door and immobilised. No issues.

Makes it really quick to remove and reattach.

[KGB]

5 hours ago, DG996c4s said:

Hi 'prototype' here is a few images of the CTek safely installed using velcro, so sits permanently in the frunk of my C4s.

Had no issues todate. Dennis

 

 

I'm not so keen on leaving a mains powered hot box inside my car!  I use the C-Tek extension from Eyelet plug to the Charger and place the charger away from the vehicles.  I'm an electrophobe.

[Mike737]

1 minute ago, KGB said:

I'm not so keen on leaving a mains powered hot box inside my car!  I use the C-Tek extension from Eyelet plug to the Charger and place the charger away from the vehicles.  I'm an electrophobe.

Also not keen on running it over the seal as it can compromise the waterproofing over time leading to mould stemming from those wet/humid days. I've got the same charger and leave the pig tail on the outside of the seal, and then run the connector and cable back to the charger around the headlight allowing you to shut the bonnet and not touch the paintwork. 

[firstone]

1 hour ago, KGB said:

I'm not so keen on leaving a mains powered hot box inside my car!  I use the C-Tek extension from Eyelet plug to the Charger and place the charger away from the vehicles.  I'm an electrophobe.

240'll kill ya. 12 won't. 

[KGB]

1 hour ago, firstone said:

240'll kill ya. 12 won't. 

Therefore it depends which end of the silver placky box you 👅.

I’ve copped both, 240 is the far more exciting proposition!

3 hours ago, Mike737 said:

Also not keen on running it over the seal as it can compromise the waterproofing over time leading to mould stemming from those wet/humid days. I've got the same charger and leave the pig tail on the outside of the seal, and then run the connector and cable back to the charger around the headlight allowing you to shut the bonnet and not touch the paintwork. 

Nice.

[Mike737]

2 hours ago, firstone said:

240'll kill ya. 12 won't. 

 

45 minutes ago, KGB said:

Therefore it depends which end of the silver placky box you 👅.

I’ve copped both, 240 is the far more exciting proposition!

Nice.

It's the amps that kill you and the c-tek 5 carries a nice 5 amps on the lower end.

I copped the end of an earthing short once. Livestock fences are for the weak. Pretty lucky that the power supply unit burst into flames when it did otherwise I don't think I'd be around to tell the tale.

[Redracn]

1 hour ago, Mike737 said:

 

It's the amps that kill you and the c-tek 5 carries a nice 5 amps on the lower end.

I copped the end of an earthing short once. Livestock fences are for the weak. Pretty lucky that the power supply unit burst into flames when it did otherwise I don't think I'd be around to tell the tale.

No volts = No amps and at 12V with human skin resistance you will not have enough amps flow to even feel it. Ever touched both battery terminals at the same time or touched the positive while touching another part of the car?  Caution never wear anything metallic around a car battery or put a spanner on the positive terminal  without first disconnecting the negative terminal.  It is generally accepted that voltages below 50V are not fatal to humans. But they can burn you if not careful. 

[Merv]

KGB your set up is the same as mine. I soldered in an extension to the pigtail connected to the battery so the black snap-on connector never has a chance to sit on top of the plastic mounting over the fuel tank.  The extra height can dent the hood if left on top the plastic cover..

[smit2100]

On 23/08/2020 at 05:45, Skidmarks said:

On mine, I have them all direct to the battery using the loom supplied. 

On a couple, I use the charging socket in the footwell but that’s specifically for that purpose.  I tried the lighter on the 996 GT3 and it didn’t work anyway.  

  I just brought a cigarette lighter comfort connector for my 996 series 2 turbo for a ctek 5.0.  Thought it would make charging the car easier  for my son when I am away.  However  like your gt3 doesnt appear to work.   Thought it may be the  connector itself but when you switch  the ignition on ( without starting)  , the ctek batterystatus shows up.   Turn to off, pull the key, lose the battery status lights a n d after 2 mintues goes into green flash mode.     I thought all 996's allowed charging through the cigarette lighter with ignition switched off and immobiliser on.  Obviously not.

[Cookster]

On 24/08/2020 at 17:03, firstone said:

240'll kill ya. 12 won't. 

Its not the voltage that will kill you, its the current in amps that your heart doesn't like too much.

[st3ve]

My 6.2 ciggie lighter is on switched ignition power, I found this while installing the bluetooth adapter.  By definition then, the + is open circuit when the ignition is off so the charger will not work.  Many (older?) cars have ciggie lighters live all the time, in those it will work.

Even though CTek is a well renowned product, I still would never leave it inside the closed frunk (especially long-term) when charging.  Presumably this means you have to have a mains cable running over a seal and into the frunk, which over time will at least depress the seal leading to leaks, but in an extreme case if the seal wore and the mains cable went through the seal it would short on the pinch welded flange that sticks up.  Bloody unlikely I admit - especially given we enthusiasts would notice degradation of the seal before it became an issue - but possible.  But more to the point, every electrical device can fail, and I always put battery chargers flat on the concrete or some other non-flammable insulating heat sink surface in case of a fault.  Most of us have our cars in the home garage, so not only do you burn your Porker, you burn your house down too.

If I was hell-bent on a sort of permanently wired solution, I would run a CTEK low voltage cable extension to allow the charger and mains to be on the floor outside the car.  A battery short on the low voltage cable is protected by the inbuilt fuse close to the battery in the CTEK adapter.

I also recently got myself a CTEK MXS5 plus comfort connectors and love it.  I don't use it on the Porker though as I aim to drive it at least a couple of times a week.  On the odd occasion it's been out of service for a couple of weeks (ie roadworks on my access road recently) I just use the included alligator clip connectors and top it up for a couple of hours and remove again.

[tomo]

As far as the extension  goes for the CTEK ordered one today at the local repco 2.5 Mtr 27 $

[Costas]

Another convenient (for some..?) charge point is actually right in the engine bay.

Pop engine lid and connect charger positive clip to the bolt which has the main battery feed connected to it - Easy as. (mentioned in  manual)

Negative lead can be clipped to almost any other negative point eg. part of the block etc.

I then run the leads straight down through the engine compartment to the floor and close the engine lid - Leads then run over to the charger which is not located in the vehicle at all.

No need to dangle wires etc over paintwork or underneath engine deck/frunk lids etc....

 

 

[smit2100]

1 hour ago, tomo said:

As far as the extension  goes for the CTEK ordered one today at the local repco 2.5 Mtr 27 $

I

 

2 hours ago, st3ve said:

My 6.2 ciggie lighter is on switched ignition power, I found this while installing the bluetooth adapter.  By definition then, the + is open circuit when the ignition is off so the charger will not work.  Many (older?) cars have ciggie lighters live all the time, in those it will work.

Even though CTek is a well renowned product, I still would never leave it inside the closed frunk (especially long-term) when charging.  Presumably this means you have to have a mains cable running over a seal and into the frunk, which over time will at least depress the seal leading to leaks, but in an extreme case if the seal wore and the mains cable went through the seal it would short on the pinch welded flange that sticks up.  Bloody unlikely I admit - especially given we enthusiasts would notice degradation of the seal before it became an issue - but possible.  But more to the point, every electrical device can fail, and I always put battery chargers flat on the concrete or some other non-flammable insulating heat sink surface in case of a fault.  Most of us have our cars in the home garage, so not only do you burn your Porker, you burn your house down too.

If I was hell-bent on a sort of permanently wired solution, I would run a CTEK low voltage cable extension to allow the charger and mains to be on the floor outside the car.  A battery short on the low voltage cable is protected by the inbuilt fuse close to the battery in the CTEK adapter.

I also recently got myself a CTEK MXS5 plus comfort connectors and love it.  I don't use it on the Porker though as I aim to drive it at least a couple of times a week.  On the odd occasion it's been out of service for a couple of weeks (ie roadworks on my access road recently) I just use the included alligator clip connectors and top it up for a couple of hours and remove again.

@ st3veThanks for the response.  Yes it looks like t h e common denominator is series  2  996' design switched to the cggie kighter being off w jhen t ignition is switched off.  

@ costas I think I am going to invest in a 2.5extension and run it straight down the engine and leave the charger on the ground per your advice.